Confused
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Posts posted by Confused
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My very lay man thoughts - I'm also in the learning phase, so I'll be interested to know what you've potentially done wrong too!
I've spotted the following that I'm not sure about:
- You have IAT Fuel Trim enabled, as well as Charge Temperature Approximation.
- You have 4D Fuel table set up, which is always enabled.
- You appear to have a fuel pressure sensor hooked up to An V9, but your fuelling is set to MAP Referenced, and not FP Sensor.
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I wasn't suggesting to change anything on the gearbox output - but picking up on propshaft, driveshaft or wheel studs etc.
I've added a sensor to my front wheel which picks up on bolts on the back of the front hub that hold the brake disk on - could you do something similar with the rear wheels?
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It looks to me like it's could be the cable binding slightly, then jumping - there's a slowdown, then a sudden increase, then the next couple of signals are slightly faster and slightly slower than your smooth wheel speed.
Can you add a similar sensor on the rear wheels as you've got on the front? That looks to be giving you a very nice smooth speed signal.
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Have you done the reset?
From memory (but double check the documentation) you short out the two Reset pins, and power it on for a few seconds. Disconnect those pins, and power it on again.
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The "Master Fuel" setting is the value you'd usually change when changing injectors for ones of a different size.
But it would also help if make sure that the injector data is correct - deadtimes for one, especially if they are vastly different.
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Also post up your old map file so we can see what you've changed.
Did you also change all the rest of the injector data, such as deadtimes?
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Does the Evo 7 have a fan controller module, like my Legnum VR-4 does? It might look like a little metal "hedgehog" with lots of little fins, and attached to the back of the fans.
If so, this is expecting a PWM based output to control the speed, rather than just a normal on/off.
If it's like mine, it's also an inverted signal (so it fails safe at 100%), so 0% PWM duty cycle is full fan speed, and 100% PWM duty cycle is fan off.
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2 hours ago, Adamw said:
Try the "restore to default" procedure that is included in the instructions.
I agree.
Restore to default, and try again.
You should see the green "Rev." light flash when it's working correctly. Until you see that light flash, it's pointless bothering to spend any time looking at RealDash.
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All Link products should include a USB cable in the box. Your first port of call should be the dealer you bought it from if this is missing - this may just be an oversight on their part.
As for Owners Manual - once you've downloaded and installed the free PC Link G4X software to your laptop, you have access to one of the best manuals I have ever seen from any software application in my 25 years in the IT industry, right there within the application, that dynamically changes the current page based upon what you've got selected on screen.
Link do provide a number of "start up" configuration files, which have the basics pre-configured for a selection of engines, but you haven't purchased an off-the-shelf tune for your engine. You have purchased a fully programable aftermarket ECU, which can be made to work with almost every single combination of engine, sensors and modifications. You will need to get it correctly configured and tuned - if you are not capable of doing this yourself, then you will need to take it to a professional tuner, and pay them for their time, expertise, and use of their very expensive tuning equipment (such as a rolling road and accurate air/fuelling ratio sensors).
- ThatDamnRanga and Vaughan
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I would forget about RealDash until you've got the analyser app showing you a stream of data in the bottom right when you're connected to the ECU.
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I think you need to set it back to Normal Mode (not Loopback Silent) for it to actually read stuff from the whole bus. The mode you've set it into is a kind of "self-test" mode, where it doesn't read/write from the bus.
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When the adapter is set up correctly, the Send/Rev lights on the adapter will flash as data is on the bus.
I seem to remember having to do something with the "Send and Start" button before it kicked into life and started flashing when receiving data from the ECU.
Once this is configured correctly, however, the area to the right should start getting flooded with messages. So verify that this working here before you go anywhere near RealDash.
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Here's one example. Note that I use a Mitsubishi fan controller, so the 0-100 logic is inverted - as a failsafe, if the signal line is disconnected, it runs the fans at 100%, so 100% PWM = 0% fan speed and 0% PWM = 100% fan speed.
I have a chargecooler, so want my fan running basically all the time. However, if I'm just sitting making configuration changes to the ECU, and the engine is cold, there's no need to turn it on, hence the first two lines will disable the fan below 30 degrees ECT.
Here's another quick example I knocked up, using AC Clutch on the X Axis:
The current implementation really does have plenty of flexibility, much more so than a custom function might.
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I got myself one of these: https://thepihut.com/products/usb-b-jack-to-usb-a-jack-round-panel-mount-adapter
It's not quite as nice as that NZEFI one, as it has the extra connection on the back for the original USB A end to go into, but it was a lot cheaper! It seems to be close in size to a standard cigarette lighter opening - but I'm planning on installing it into the dash of my 1967 Ford Anglia 105E, which didn't have a cigarette lighter opening, but did have a push-button washer pump which is close enough in size!
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By default, it looks like 0v = 9.0 AFR/0.612 lambda and 5v = 19 AFR/1.293 lambda
So set up your AN Volt 4 like this:
You can use Calibration tables Cal 4 - 6, configured like this:
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Link provides a small amount of storage space per user. As you upload images, logs, tunes etc, this space is used, and what you have left gets smaller.
You can always use something like Dropbox, Google Drive, OneDrive etc to upload your files/images to, and link them here if you run out of the freely provided storage space.
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I was about ready to bin my Delco sensors, as I misread the graph incorrectly first time round! Then I took a closer look, and realised that actually, it's not all that bad in comparison! I then looked at the price of different sensors, and decided I was definitely sticking with the Delco ones!
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That's for a Narrowband O2 sensor, which doesn't have a controller.
If you have a habit of sitting with the ignition on and engine off, your best bet is to power the LC-1 via a Relay, which is controlled by the ECU (relay coil has ignition power one side, ECU output the other), so that it only powers up the LC-1 controller after the engine has been running for a few seconds.
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I've seen PC Link "freeze" when making "big" changes like switching current active fuelling table, because it's got to refresh all the the "current" data on screen.
Can you try doing the same test without PC Link running and connected? This would help narrow it down as to whether it's due to PC Link refreshing the data, or something else.
Can you also post up a copy of your tune, and a log that has this occurring within it? This will allow the tech guys to try to replicate the issue, and to check settings to make sure it's not a configuration oddity that's causing this to occur.
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"+2%" in that dialog is asking it to "add 2% to the existing value in the table cell", and as you had 0 there, 2% of 0 is still 0.
Your values in the 2nd screenshot will be closer to correct.
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If you've got a G4x ECU, as it says under your name, then it has on board knock hardware. All you need is a knock sensor wired up to it https://dealers.linkecu.com/Knock-Sensor-with-Loom-KNSB
The G4x has a new "Normalised Knock" feature which, from what I can understand, takes a lot of the existing configuration and fine-tuning of knock control away, and gives you something that is much easier to set up.
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No, and yes.
For setup and tuning, you must use PCLink, which is not supported on Android, you must have a computer running a full version of Windows.
If you purely want display of data (and basic "dashboard" style button presses, such as to switch between different target boost values), then you could use RealDash
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Multiple boost targets can be selected using a Digital Input to switch between two, or even use a rotary dial and an Analog Input, and you could select between many, like using this AEM one https://www.aemelectronics.com/products/sensors-connectors-accessories/12-position-trim-pot
Displaying current boost, yes, you'd need some kind of additional display - this could be as simple as a mechanical boost gauge, a 52mm configurable CANBUS guage (one example would be http://www.btigauges.com/link--vipec.html) or you could go for a tablet or digital dash. The possibilities are endless, really!
G4+ 5.6.8 PC Link & Firmware 5.6.8 Released
in G4+
Posted
This is the latest firmware version. Unfortunately, the G4+ is not having any major new features or functionality added, and it appears only critical bugs are being considered for fixing.
It would be nice if they did a few minor "quality of life" improvements, but I don't think that's going to happen either