SodaRabbit Posted December 7, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2020 Thanks for moving my post. In the mean time they did swap ECU's. Until they are ready I'm stuck with the G4+. The car has 370cc injectors. I have a scg-1 reading AFRS I moved it down to 5ms and that's where it idles around 14.1-14.4 it's not stable when on throttle though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted December 7, 2020 Report Share Posted December 7, 2020 That master fuel setting at 5ms doesnt really fit with what I would expect for 370cc injectors. These would typically need more like 3-4X that. So either the injectors arent actually what you think they are or the lambda is not reading correctly, or there re is something else odd like you have 150psi fuel pressure or something... Since the gauge is innovate I wouldnt pin too much confidence on it telling the truth. So can you get it running again and just try increasing that master fuel to see if it actually runs better when you give it more fuel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SodaRabbit Posted December 7, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2020 So I tried putting the master fuel to 20ms it barely runs and idles around 300 and dies. Lowering it seems to be the only way it will run. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted December 8, 2020 Report Share Posted December 8, 2020 Ok, seems pretty odd. It sounds like it is time to get a tuner involved, cant really diagnose much further without lambda connected etc. As a quick improvement to the idle speed, change the ISC mode to Closed Loop - E-throttle and it will then open up the throttle to bring it right on its own. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SodaRabbit Posted December 8, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 8, 2020 Okay thank you. I figured I'm speaking with a tuner right now ill give you an update soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xcessive.Mfg Posted January 29, 2021 Report Share Posted January 29, 2021 Hello guys, Sorry to pull an old post up but I did want to shed some light on the issues we were having in trying to calibrate the TPS on the G4X this customer had. He is still currently running on a Plus model and we would like to get him on the X that was paid for but we are still having troubles getting the TPS to cal as it continues to give us an H-Bridge polarity error. We have checked and eliminated every variable in the wiring and tried this on multiple running cars using the Panic Wire IS300 adapters that were once available. The 20+ ECU's we have in-stock are functional until it comes to calibrating the TPS for Ethrottle setup, including obviously the ECU we received from this customer. The G4+ versions have no issues calibrating and running, that is why we sent him one of our employees ECU's to get him on the road. Here's the timeline: We switched over to the X platform at the beginning on 2020 and sold 10-15 of these IS300 kits with great results to customers. Then the pandemic hit and the Link production line stopped for 8 weeks (I believe?). We ran out of ECU's within that time and ordered more right when they were available sometime in late April/early May. Once they arrived we sent out the last Panic Wire kit we were to sell (we no longer carry Panic Wire products) to this family. We were contacted about a TPS calibration issue after they tried setting up the ECU following our instruction video sent with the kit. We went through those procedures with them, went through potential wiring issues and tried generally everything we could think of. After confirming the wiring was sound based on the engine running on the harness with stock ECU we had the customer send the jumper harness and ECU back for inspection. Upon arrival we ran through our tests and found that there was nothing wrong with the jumper (worked on other cars here with different ECU's from running cars) and assumed an issue with the ECU or programming. After running through 4 known working maps with the same results we contacted Link through multiple avenues and began to chase the possible causes. We were told repeatedly that it was a wiring issue or that our maps had issues, but no issues could be found. We then sent an ECU back to Link in Michigan where Scott ran tests claiming there was no fault with the ECU and that we had our Ethrottle AUX's set wrong, which they were not and I could not get a clear answer beyond that as to what I should set them to or what was actually incorrect. Both him and Jason claimed knowledge of good running cars in several regions and left us with it being a wiring fault. We requested the our local representative stop by to help us diagnose this issue and that unfortunately has not happened. We have since done more testing on new harnesses, old harnesses, with and without jumper harnesses and come to the same H-Bridge error. It seems that there was some change in either hardware or software during the Pandemic shut down as that is the only major timeline factor that did not involve us. Speaking with Simon on the Link Chat and he said there was possibly a firmware change that may be responsible for this issue. The trouble call was then deferred to Scott in the USA. We are hoping to find a flaw in our setup or something we are doing wrong and are not trying to say the product is issue prone, we would just like to get this issue understood so we can move on and help our customers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted January 29, 2021 Report Share Posted January 29, 2021 If you go back to the start of the thread you will see the reason it wouldnt run was because the trigger 1 and 2 wires were swapped in the jumper harness. It ran with the factory ecu because the jumper harness wasnt used. Swapping those wires solved the trigger issue. In post 23 on the first page he says the throttle calibrated successfully and then in the log attached to post 5 on the 2nd page you can see the throttle sitting on target during cranking so it appears there is no issue with the throttle. At that point it looked like it was only a setup/tune issue preventing it from running however he returned the ECU so I never got any further logs to help diagnose. As far as I know he hadnt confirmed base timing or anything at that point and the map sensor wasnt even connected. So if you give us some logs then we may be able to diagnose further. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xcessive.Mfg Posted January 29, 2021 Report Share Posted January 29, 2021 The main thing I am trying to sort is why the calibration is a hit or miss (mostly miss). I was able to get 1 successful calibration recently as well but it would not calibrate a second time. I did see where the person who built the main harness got the trigger wires backwards. How should I log the calibration failing? I also noticed that the calibration procedure done by the ECU is different from G4+ to G4X. Not sure if that may play a role in what the G4X is now trying to look for in a successful calibration. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted January 29, 2021 Report Share Posted January 29, 2021 16 minutes ago, Xcessive.Mfg said: How should I log the calibration failing? Hit F8 to start the logger, perform a TP cal. Hit F8 to stop the logger. Then go to >Logging>save log file as. The only difference with G4X E-throttle cal is you need to manually check the "TPS (Sub) 100%" setting is correct afterwards if it is a non linear sub sensor (G4+ used to attempt to set this automatically). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SodaRabbit Posted January 30, 2021 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2021 I recently found out that it may have been the fuel pump not priming 100% the pump clip was not in snug I found this out after inspecting the car more when I installed the G4+ I didn't think that it was the issue but it's definitely a possibility because the G4+ works fine. The ECU was a hit or miss when calibrating TPS I do remember that. Switching those wires around I believe was the main issue I was having so there may be a possibility that ECU does indeed work. If you send it back I'm willing to test it out again, I have yet to have the car tuned so it would be better to get this done before so that I wouldn't need to get a retune. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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