MR2 Spyder, Thunder and e-Throttle

[Dom]

Hi everyone.

I am planning on installing a Link ECU into my MR2 Spyder MY2000.
Along the ride, e-throttle will be installed.

For the 1ZZ engine, there are 2 Throttles available.
-- The later model standard e-throttle with 6 pin connector
-- Clutch type e-throttle (specifically used in the SMT version of the MR2)

Now, the clutch type would be the more elegant solution 'cause it incorporates the APS (still cable operated, no need to mess around with the ergnomics of the loud pedal).

is there any real downside to the clutch type one?

I have used some Bosch and Conti e-throttles with Link ECU's and this worked out really well every time, but I have no experience using that clutch type one.
is it as fast as the newer one?

The newer toyota ECTS have Hall sensors for TPS as well as theri pedal assemblies which is also a great thing...

thanks in advance!


BR from Austria
Dom

 

[Adamw]

I dont think I have even seen the clutched 1ZZ throttle but I assume it works similar to the Altezza and 1UZ ones that are commonly used with Link so should be no drama.

Info from help file:

[Dom]

Yeah it's the same, is a bit more compact than the big UZ one, but same principle and same connectors.



The APS sits behind the bracket on the right hand side.

I think the old style clutch ECTS hav resistor type pos sensors rather than the newer hall type?
The real Question I have: Is it noticeable slower than the new models?
 

Clutch Positive must not be hot fed.
You mean switched 12V on the pos leg of the clutch?
neg to an aux out of the link?
any special advice here, regarding aux out on a thunder? (current of the clutch?)

BR
Dom

[Adamw]

I have not seen any issue with response speed.  It will move faster than the engine can accelerate thats for sure. 

 

23 minutes ago, Dom said:

Clutch Positive must not be hot fed.
You mean switched 12V on the pos leg of the clutch?

This means the 12V supply must be from an ignition switched source, not "hot" all the time.  

Suggest Aux 1-8 or Aux 17-20 as these ones have the "Test PWM" function that the help suggests 250Hz (I assume to minimise heat).  

 

 

[Dom]

Great thanks for the fast response!

I am just ordering the one out of the picture.
yeah makes sense. SInce the clutch is a magnetic device, which tends to get hot.

Only thing is:
I have to use the OE ECU along the ride, because the MR2 has the BEAN Bus System to drive A/C, Alternator light, Oil P light, Coolant temp gauge.

That will be fun.

Really looking forward to that.

Another question came to my mind:
The OE MR2 has two pre-cat o2 sensors and since I have the Thunder I want to utilize two wideband sensors.
Is there any possibility to tell the ECU that one sensor is off Cyl 1 and 4, and the other pne is off 2 and 3, so that it treats the closed loop system bank-wise?
Say if Cyl 2 and 3 are bit to rich, that it just reduces the PW to 2 and 3?
To get the tuning correct, I am planning to utilize cylinder trim 1 table for 2 and 3, basis is 1 and 4.

Any suggestions?



 

[Link2ThePast]

You can use the Mitches auto parts multi core processor thing to control the coolant AC, etc. That’s what I’ve been using. 
 

I haven’t gotten Ac to work yet but I think it’s because I’ve wired it incorrectly. I’ve changed it to how I think it should work but I have yet to test 

[Dom]

Thans, I came across that.

I am curious, whether this works or not.

Currently I am struggling which throttle to use.
I have heard, that the clutch type throttle have problems with the APS as they age.
 

[Dom]

Currently I am into wiring layout.

I came across coolant temp sensor, which can be shared (internal pull-up disabled)
The OEM wiring diagram suggests the following:

 

Brown should be 5V Sensor supply as it's connected to a few sensors which need supply.
I am not sure about the correct wiring to the Link.
Can I wire this directly to a Temp Input?

Thanks in advance

Dom

[Dom]

Edit: I'm dumb. Brown is not Supply, it is sensor gnd, therefore connect the R-L to the Temp input on the Thunder.

But I have seen something else which I am worrying about:

Here, one brown cable connects some sensor grounds (E1) to the ECU gnd (E02), the 3 O2 Sensor signals are connected to the brown cables in the bottom of the picture as well.

So, would it be a problem if:
1) the two brown sensor grounds (E2, from the ECT Sensor) and E1 are internally connected in the OEM ECU
2) the sensor ground and the ECU ground are connected to the chassis
3) the ECT Sensor is shared between the ECUs
--> That would mean, that the Sensor gnd of the Thunder would also be connected to chassis/ECU ground?
 

[JMP]

E2 is the sensor ground that matters, connect that to the Link's sensor ground.  E1 goes to the head so it can go to one of your Link Power grounds

Here's a bit of a pinout I did for a Storm on a ZZE122 1zz Corolla a while ago which might be useful for you