bad_chopper Posted August 23, 2021 Report Share Posted August 23, 2021 I just wired in a link monsoon, took a little bit to get the car to start. (had the crank and cam signal wires backwards) biggest issue i had was when it was running the lamda sensor would show fault 16,33, and 35. i have the10awg power wire going direct from the battery, to a self resetting circuit breaker, then to a relay that only supplies power to a fuse, then the link lamda, via a 14awg wire if i jump the relay it would still show the faults after trying to warm up. If i would hard wire from battery to lamda it would still show the faults. If i would use my power probe to supply battery power to the fuse it would work correctly. i tested the lamda operation with the power probe several different times connecting the power supply to the battery directly, both sides of the circuit breaker, even the power wire side of the lamda relay. it worked every time with the power probe. after lots of research on this site it looked like i should add the capacitor that link suggests if not wired direct to batt...22uf 35v electrolytic capacitor i installed it on the sensor side of the power plug for the lambda. it would be nice if this $1.45 part was already installed to ensure proper operation from the beginning. one thing i would like to know is, what is the part number or type of deutch connector i need to buy to replace the ones in 4 pin module side connector. i would like to actually crimp the capacitor in pin rather then solder. hope this helps someone else out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Link2ThePast Posted August 23, 2021 Report Share Posted August 23, 2021 1 hour ago, bad_chopper said: one thing i would like to know is, what is the part number or type of deutch connector i need to buy to replace the ones in 4 pin module side connector. i would like to actually crimp the capacitor in pin rather then solder. Not sure of part number but I think it's a DTM plug. https://www.amazon.com/Deutsch-4-pin-Connector-Gauge-Terminals/dp/B01CUCA9GA/ref=asc_df_B01CUCA9GA/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312094794632&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10347601412040511343&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031239&hvtargid=pla-570994925278&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=60223452937&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=312094794632&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10347601412040511343&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031239&hvtargid=pla-570994925278 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
plox Posted August 23, 2021 Report Share Posted August 23, 2021 I've got the connectors off the below website, part numbers are there too. I think the resistors are only needed when not using a dash/can gauge at the end of the line (which normally has the resistor inbuilt), so having the resistor inbuilt wouldn't always work. https://www.msel.co.nz/epages/motorsportelectronics.sf/en_NZ/?ObjectPath=/Shops/motorsportelectronics/Products/CONDTM04-4PK https://www.msel.co.nz/epages/motorsportelectronics.sf/en_NZ/?ObjectPath=/Shops/motorsportelectronics/Products/CONDTM04-4PK Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bad_chopper Posted August 23, 2021 Author Report Share Posted August 23, 2021 19 minutes ago, plox said: I've got the connectors off the below website, part numbers are there too. I think the resistors are only needed when not using a dash/can gauge at the end of the line (which normally has the resistor inbuilt), so having the resistor inbuilt wouldn't always work. 1 hour ago, Link2ThePast said: Not sure of part number but I think it's a DTM plug. https://www.amazon.com/Deutsch-4-pin-Connector-Gauge-Terminals/dp/B01CUCA9GA/ref=asc_df_B01CUCA9GA/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=312094794632&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10347601412040511343&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031239&hvtargid=pla-570994925278&psc=1&tag=&ref=&adgrpid=60223452937&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvadid=312094794632&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=10347601412040511343&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9031239&hvtargid=pla-570994925278 https://www.msel.co.nz/epages/motorsportelectronics.sf/en_NZ/?ObjectPath=/Shops/motorsportelectronics/Products/CONDTM04-4PK https://www.msel.co.nz/epages/motorsportelectronics.sf/en_NZ/?Obje ctPath=/Shops/motorsportelectronics/Products/CONDTM04-4PK Yes your are correct, the CAN Data line needs the 120ohm resistor on the end of the data line, unless you have a module at the end of line that has a terminating resister included. i think we may be talking about two different things. I had to put a capasitor in on the power\ ground supply for the lamda module. it was showing connection issue faults without it. Thanks for the links to the plugs and pins plox 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted August 23, 2021 Report Share Posted August 23, 2021 4 pin DTM plug (the part with socket terminals) part number is DTM06-4S 4 pin DTM receptacle (the part with male pins) is DTM04-4P You probably want stamped and formed terminals rather than the solid contacts that are shown in the MSEL link above if you only have a cheap open barrel crimp tool. Stamped and formed pin is 1060-20-02** Stamped and formed socket is 1062-20-02** ** = 22 for Nickel, 44 for Gold. There is a worldwide shortage of DTM's at the moment, if you cant find them also look at the Amphenol ATM series, fully compatible/interchangeable with DTM plox 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.