Bethanyc Posted August 2, 2022 Report Share Posted August 2, 2022 I have finally got my rally car to the point where i can focus on trying to get the antilag working properly with the DBW throttle, but for the life of me it cant actually make the antilag work at all, all the setting look like it should be where they should and should be a mild amount. I was told by a few people on the weekend it is most certainly not working at all. I would have though 8% throttle opening would have been plenty of air for even a low amount ? log from testing and map attached. any help appreciated. Edit:car now has a pedal box so not worried about no vacuum. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kaptainballistik Posted August 2, 2022 Report Share Posted August 2, 2022 Personally I would be looking at what the off throttle boost level is, vs what "looks" like happening. The STi barely pops and bangs when I'm up it. How much "drive" are you getting under brakes? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bethanyc Posted August 2, 2022 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2022 22 minutes ago, kaptainballistik said: Personally I would be looking at what the off throttle boost level is, vs what "looks" like happening. The STi barely pops and bangs when I'm up it. How much "drive" are you getting under brakes? At the moment there is no boost off throttle, and no pops at all, so no drive under brakes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted August 2, 2022 Report Share Posted August 2, 2022 I dont have a vast ALS experience, but I would say not enough retard, you need to get that heat out of the combustion chamber and into the exhaust manifold instead. I prefer to use the absolute degrees retard mode so that the ignition table doesnt have an influence. Your ignition is still about 6deg BTDC during overrun in that log (ie 33 in the main ign table -27 in the als retard table = +6) More typical ignition timing off throttle with ALS would be more like 20-40ATDC. And I suspect you probably still need more throttle opening too - best to start with less and creep up on it, but more typically around 15-20% minimum opening. Bethanyc 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bethanyc Posted August 2, 2022 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2022 Thanks Adam, that totally makes sense. I will change to absolute deg, and give it a try plus some more throttle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dx4picco Posted August 2, 2022 Report Share Posted August 2, 2022 From my little experience on our subaru EJ205 with only idle air bypass valve: Running the valve 75% open already provides a noticeable push (but manageable), running 0° absolute timing (TDC) with 25% extra fuel I am getting sustainable EGT temps. namely 800°C off throttle. pops/burble are noticeable but not that much. my second map which I don't use that often has 5° ATDC ignition, pops are way more noticeable and the temps are creaping over 90°C. I already tried 100% ICV opening, but the push was either too much, or EGTs way too high (975°C in seconds) because of very retarded timing to compensate the push (indeed in the region of 20-30 atdc) So be very aware that you gonna melt some shit! and car will push Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bethanyc Posted August 3, 2022 Author Report Share Posted August 3, 2022 Certainly will be putting a EGT sensor on, so i can see what's it doing before i enable, no point just turning on and watching the motor melt down..... my quick test in the driveway yesterday 30deg atdc and only 5% fuel and 15% throttle it was certainly producing boost !!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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