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Subaru V7 with 2014 STI dual VVT heads


Warchild

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HI Adam / Tech / Members

OK, so we installed two new heads form a 2014 STI on a 2002 (V7) STI ej207 motor. Perfect fit , no issues.

As you know, the V7 heads only have the cam sensor (timing) and the VVT intake sensor as part of the engine loom.

On the 2014 heads, you also have the VVT on the exhaust side as well. (DUAL VVT HEADS)

My question, is my V7 Link ecu G4+ capable of managing the exhaust VVT as well via an input ?

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  • Warchild changed the title to Subaru V7 with 2014 STI dual VVT heads

The V7 engine would have originally had a cam sensor at the front of one head behind the sprocket connected to trigger 2 then 2 further sensors at the back connected to DI's.  

You will now no longer have or need the front sensor, the LH intake cam sensor at the back will now need to be connected to trig 2 instead, the other 3 cam sensors will need to be connected to 3 DIs between DI 1-4.  DI 1 & 2 will already be there at the back of the heads so you will just need to run 1 further DI from ECU to cam sensor - probably DI4 is easiest (was IC spray switch in some models).  You will need to run power to the cam sensors too.  

The new extra 2 AVCS solenoids need to be connected to any aux between Aux 1-8.  Probably the easiest is Aux 8 (was o2 sensor heater) and Aux 5 (CE light), the CE light could be moved to any other spare output.

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On 8/8/2022 at 12:16 PM, Adamw said:

The V7 engine would have originally had a cam sensor at the front of one head behind the sprocket connected to trigger 2 then 2 further sensors at the back connected to DI's.  

You will now no longer have or need the front sensor, the LH intake cam sensor at the back will now need to be connected to trig 2 instead, the other 3 cam sensors will need to be connected to 3 DIs between DI 1-4.  DI 1 & 2 will already be there at the back of the heads so you will just need to run 1 further DI from ECU to cam sensor - probably DI4 is easiest (was IC spray switch in some models).  You will need to run power to the cam sensors too.  

The new extra 2 AVCS solenoids need to be connected to any aux between Aux 1-8.  Probably the easiest is Aux 8 (was o2 sensor heater) and Aux 7 (CE light), the CE light could be moved to any other spare output.

Hi Adam, thank you as always !

Quick questions please.

1.) The power we need to take to the 3 pin crank sensors, where do we take power from ? If it is 12v, we will take from ignition power, but if it is 5v power needed, where to we take it from ?

2.) DO you have the cam sensor diagram that shows what each of the 3 pins represent? 

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Does that diagram show 5V?  Never really studied it in detail but my memory feels it shows 12V.  Actually come to think of it some of them have reluctors on the exhaust, so you may not even need power.  Check it it is 2 or 3 pin sensors on the exhaust, if they are 3 pin then wire them like the intake cam sensors on that quad avcs diagram.  

If those sensors really need 5V then just splice into one of the intake cams.  

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On 8/8/2022 at 12:16 PM, Adamw said:

The V7 engine would have originally had a cam sensor at the front of one head behind the sprocket connected to trigger 2 then 2 further sensors at the back connected to DI's.  

You will now no longer have or need the front sensor, the LH intake cam sensor at the back will now need to be connected to trig 2 instead, the other 3 cam sensors will need to be connected to 3 DIs between DI 1-4.  DI 1 & 2 will already be there at the back of the heads so you will just need to run 1 further DI from ECU to cam sensor - probably DI4 is easiest (was IC spray switch in some models).  You will need to run power to the cam sensors too.  

The new extra 2 AVCS solenoids need to be connected to any aux between Aux 1-8.  Probably the easiest is Aux 8 (was o2 sensor heater) and Aux 7 (CE light), the CE light could be moved to any other spare output.

Hi Adam, kindly confirm ( sorry only received the solenoids and extra cam sensors today)

On the link ecu, the 8 ports (LETS CALL THE CONNECTION BLOCK THE  "AN-BLOCK") ( does not have a link connector and loom :( ) are unused (IGN5, IGN6, IGN7, IGN8, DI9, TEMP4, VOLT10, VOLT11)

Then the connection port next to it, which has a link ecu loom and connector, namely (GND, 5V+, DI7, DI8, VOLT6, VOLT7, VOLT8, VOLT9) 

DI7 - open / unused

DI8 - open/unused

VOLT7 - open/unused

VOLT9 - open/unused

So we must/can use DI7, DI8, DI9 as you have mentioned right ?

Then to understand, AUX ports you are referring to, are these any of the 8 ports on the "AN-BLOCK" ?? If not, given the info I just gave you, what port names must I use for all the connections you mentioned ?  

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9 hours ago, Adamw said:

What you are calling "AN-Block" is the expansion port.  No you wont be able to use these for your AVCS.  You need the cam position sensors connected to DI1-4 and the cam solenoids connected to Aux 1-8.  

VunZrNK.png

Thanks again for the info, we will change accordingly.

Kindly confirm.

We need one DI, which we took from DI4 (pin B-12 IC spray) ,

We need 3 AUX ports so we used:

AUX8 (pin C13 - rear O2 sensor)

AUX5 (pin D-15 CE Light) 

AUX 3 (C-10 ISC Solenoid)

How or where do I "move the CE Light" in the configuration?

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On 8/8/2022 at 10:16 PM, Adamw said:

The new extra 2 AVCS solenoids need to be connected to any aux between Aux 1-8.  Probably the easiest is Aux 8 (was o2 sensor heater) and Aux 5 (CE light), the CE light could be moved to any other spare output.

You now have 4 AVCS solenoids.  2 of them were already connected to the ECU from factory (Aux 1 & 2).  So you only need 2 extra aux outputs.  Aux 8 & 5 were my suggestions.  

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On 8/8/2022 at 12:16 PM, Adamw said:

The V7 engine would have originally had a cam sensor at the front of one head behind the sprocket connected to trigger 2 then 2 further sensors at the back connected to DI's.  

You will now no longer have or need the front sensor, the LH intake cam sensor at the back will now need to be connected to trig 2 instead, the other 3 cam sensors will need to be connected to 3 DIs between DI 1-4.  DI 1 & 2 will already be there at the back of the heads so you will just need to run 1 further DI from ECU to cam sensor - probably DI4 is easiest (was IC spray switch in some models).  You will need to run power to the cam sensors too.  

The new extra 2 AVCS solenoids need to be connected to any aux between Aux 1-8.  Probably the easiest is Aux 8 (was o2 sensor heater) and Aux 5 (CE light), the CE light could be moved to any other spare output.

HI Adam

Ok, after we have done this, sorry there is just MASSIVE work that was needed on the car, so we are completing this now. So once we have connected this as you described, what changes inside the Link ecu software must be made now to complete this upgrade and for the car to start and function normally? Sorry, first time doing this, want to make sure it is done 100% for this car. Attached the latest file I have for this car, kindly change the file and confirmed what you changed so we can learn from it if you don't mind ? Thank you so much in advance 

After new engine install 2022 - Upload my settings.pclr

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I change DI4 under the "Digital Inputs" section to VVT Cam Position, Cam Type= Exhaust R/H, Pullup Resistor=ON, Active Edge=Rising, Offset=0.0ATDC (this correct?)

I changed AUX5 under "Auxiliary Outputs" Function=VVT Cam solenoid, Frequency=50Hz (standard setting), Cam Type=Exhaust R/H

I changed AUX8 under "Auxiliary Outputs" Function=VVT Cam Solenoid, Frequency 15Hz (standard setting), Cam Type=Exhaust L/H

What is still wrong ? Thank you in advance 

After new engine install 2022 - changes for cam sensors.pclr

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Map below should be somewhere close.  Use the "test PWM" function on each aux to confirm they are wired/assigned to the correct cam solenoid.  

Also, check your DI's, you had DI1 set to LH intake but that cam should be wired to trig 2 so I have changed DI1 to RH intake.  I changed DI2 to LH Exh and DI4 to RH exh. 

 

Basic trigger and VVT set up.pclr

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 8/23/2022 at 11:56 AM, Adamw said:

Map below should be somewhere close.  Use the "test PWM" function on each aux to confirm they are wired/assigned to the correct cam solenoid.  

Also, check your DI's, you had DI1 set to LH intake but that cam should be wired to trig 2 so I have changed DI1 to RH intake.  I changed DI2 to LH Exh and DI4 to RH exh. 

 

Basic trigger and VVT set up.pclr 166.21 kB · 3 downloads

Hi Adam, sorry where is the test PWM function? 

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Just to keep all info in one place, this is what we have done, please, please help, as the car does not start.

AGAIN, is is a standard STI v7 bottom end and DUAL VVT EJ25 heads.

Attached the LATEST file on the car now. But PLEASE read the following, explaining exactly where what cable is to what sensor. 

1.) Intake RH bank ( so standing infront of car, the banks then on your left hand side), WAS a 2 sensor wire, that has been moved to the new DUAL VVT head, RH intake sensor, which is a 3 sensor plug, and given 12v power. As you said we should do ?

2.) Intake LH cam pulley sensor (stock one) has been moved to the new DUAL VVT head intake cam sensor, also a 3 wire now, at the back of the head. as suggested.

3.) the LH side cam sensor, on the stock sti v7 head, is a secondary sensor, has been moved to the LH side EXHAUST cam sensor on the new DUAL VVT head.

4.) A new cable was pulled from the ecu (DI4) to the RH EXHAUST cam sensor on the EJ25 DUAL VVT head.

5.) A new cable was pulled from the ECU (AUX3) to the LH VVT Solenoid

6.) A new cable was pulled from the ECU (AUX8) to the RH VVT solenoid.

So please have a look at the attached file and check if all is correct.

 

 

LATEST-G4.pclr

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Hi Adam.

Just a (positive) update, the car starts and idles !!

We went back to basics and just checked every last thing, replaced the spark plugs, each injector connector checked and replaced, each coil connector checked and replaced where needed, each and every cam sensor wiring checked and fixed, just so many things. Went through the help file, followed all related settings we could find, rewrote all the needed configs, saved, stored and started first time !! Idles very high (2000rpm) but don't thinks it is related to anything config, whole engine and parts were rebuilt etc.

Attached CAL file, PLEASE , with my latest post about where and how we connected stuff, please verify that our settings are correct? Specially about the following

1.) DI - 1 : This is a standard input on the STI V7 as you know, but it now runs on a ej25 QUAD AVCS head. What must the offset be?

2.) DI - 2 : What must the Offset be ? Offset is now 17.0 ATDC where DI-1 is 300 ?

3.) DI - 3 : What must the offset be ? Currently it is 288.0 ATDC

4.) AUX1 - Stock settings (for STI V7 heads), Offset is 300 Hz, correct for the EJ25 QUAD AVCS heads?

5.) AUX2 - same question as question 4

6.) AUX3 - the new cable pulled and configured, also same setting as AUX1 ? or what must they be ?

7.) AUX8 - same question as point 4-6

I thank you in advance for the help ! Please provide feedback soonest, much appreciated.

 

Here is the CAL file, wouldn't let me upload with previous post

LATEST-START-MAP.pclr

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