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BMW reluctor crank sensor setup


Running rebel

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  • 2 weeks later...

Reluctor.  In the pic, left pin = out= signal.  Center pin = gnd.  Right pin = S = Shield. 

Usually VR sensors that have a pig tail or lead will have 3 pins so that the lead is shielded. Whereas VR sensors with the plug moulded directly on to the sensor only have 2 wires as they dont need the shield.  

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  • 1 month later...

UPDATE:

Still getting large sway on timing when trying to calibrate.

We have tried new sensor, made a separate harness for crank sensor still no luck

Car has a MSD ignition box could this be an issue and does it need a particular trigger setup?

Any help would be appreciated.

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There are a few odd effects in your log:

  1. Battery voltage is very erratic and alternator is not charging.  
  2. MAP is quite erratic and very high (ie barely any vacuum at idle)
  3. There are patches of erratic movement on the TPS trace, this doesnt look like it is someones foot doing that.  

The erratic battery voltage may suggest there is a bad ground, possibly the main 12V supply to the ecu is missing (ecu pin 5), or some other loose connection somewhere.  You could try disconnecting the alternator just to confirm it isnt caused by a bad diode in that or something.   

The erratic MAP and very little vacuum usually indicates a mechanical issue, but one possible explanation - does this engine maybe have ITB's?

Whats your thoughts on the TPS signal - were you really working the pedal hard or is that a genuine issue?  

l0T2hf1.png

 

One other thought - have you checked rotor phasing?

Avi3uDK.png

 

 

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7 hours ago, Adamw said:

There are a few odd effects in your log:

  1. Battery voltage is very erratic and alternator is not charging.  .
  2. MAP is quite erratic and very high (ie barely any vacuum at idle)
  3. There are patches of erratic movement on the TPS trace, this doesnt look like it is someones foot doing that.  LOOKS LIKE WHEN IDLE WAS TRYIING TO BE RAISED.....TPS IS GENERALLY VERY STABLE

The erratic battery voltage may suggest there is a bad ground, possibly the main 12V supply to the ecu is missing (ecu pin 5), or some other loose connection somewhere.  You could try disconnecting the alternator just to confirm it isnt caused by a bad diode in that or something.   YES WE REALISED VOLTAGE DROP AS WELL....BATTERY CONNECTION MAY HAVE BEEN THE ISSUE...LOOSE POSITIVE LEAD

The erratic MAP and very little vacuum usually indicates a mechanical issue, but one possible explanation - does this engine maybe have ITB's? YES...ITBs

Whats your thoughts on the TPS signal - were you really working the pedal hard or is that a genuine issue? MAYBE WHEN WE TRIED TO MOVE CAR..............GENERALLY TPS IS STABLE  

l0T2hf1.png

 

One other thought - have you checked rotor phasing? NO

Avi3uDK.png

 

 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

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