G4x Xtreme WireIn Digital Input issue

[VtrSp1]

@Adamw , I performed a G4X Xtreme installation on a Lotus chassis, everything works fine I have no backfeed problems in the auxes. The engine starts and stops then everything runs smoothly.In the ecu I brought the clutch switch signal in DI7 (+ 12V when I press the clutch) and the brake switch signal in DI8 (+12 V when I press the brake).
The clutch sensor channel DI7 works properly, it activates when I press the clutch.
The channel of the brake sensor DI8, on the other hand, remains always active whether I press or do not press the brake while the brake lights of the car work correctly.
I measured the voltage on pin DI8 with a mulimeter and unfortunately I have 3.39 Volts without pressing the brake (but the brake lights are off).
If instead of the multimeter I put a light bulb and observe the Runtimes in the digital, the channel passes from active to inactive and if I press the pedal it becomes active and therefore works.
The bulb "consumes" the parasitic voltage on the channel.
So the "problem" is on the car's original wiring loom.

The reason it needs the clutch signal and brake pedal signal is because I want to throttle blip.
How can I make sure that my G4X Xtreme considers DI8 valid only if it is higher than 5V so as to have the input channel with the brake sensor working?

However, I am attaching the ecu file and a datalog with the engine off.

 

[Vaughan]

is your ECU wired up to the brake switch that turns on and off the brake lights or are you using a separate switch on the brake pedal just for the ECU?

[Adamw]

The switching thresholds on the DI's are fixed by hardware, not user adjustable.  From memory it needs to rise above about 1.8V to be considered active, and fall below about 1.0V to be considered inactive.  A pull-down resistor connected to ground might be enough to solve it.  

Another option you could possibly use an analog input (can measure up to 5.0V), use this voltage as a condition in a GP output/virtual aux, which you can then assign as your Brake switch source.

[VtrSp1]

9 hours ago, Vaughan said:

is your ECU wired up to the brake switch that turns on and off the brake lights or are you using a separate switch on the brake pedal just for the ECU?

The ecu is wired to the Oem Brake Switch that turns on and off the brake lights. To be precise, I took the + 12v signal from the wire that goes to the rear stop lights

[Vaughan]

14 hours ago, VtrSp1 said:

The ecu is wired to the Oem Brake Switch that turns on and off the brake lights. To be precise, I took the + 12v signal from the wire that goes to the rear stop lights

If you're using the wire that powers the bulbs you definitely shouldn't have 3.39v when the brakes are not on, any current leakage through the switch should be grounded through the taillight bulbs. Are you testing with no brake light bulbs in?

[koracing]

I've noticed a similar DI not changing or triggering properly on my own MR2 installation where I ran the Stop light switch pin on the OEM harness at the ECU to a DI.  It is supposed to only have 12V when the brakes are pressed, but that's not how it's acting.  I'll have to investigate further.  I reveiwed the wiring diagrams and they don't show any obvious reason why this wouldn't be how it's working - but I should measure voltage at the pin as well like the thread starter did.   A pull down resistor may be the right and best solution for me if shows similar low voltage nominally without the brake switch being activated.

[Vaughan]

53 minutes ago, koracing said:

A pull down resistor may be the right and best solution for me if shows similar low voltage nominally without the brake switch being activated.

The bulbs themselves should be operating as a pulldown resistance, I would definitely be investigating voltages at the bulb end of the wire and the tail light earths.