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Subaru GC8 wasted-spark to plug coils conversion


DenisAlmos

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Hi all,

On the process of installing an STI intercooler on my EJ205 powered GC8, I realized the dump valve doesn't fit with the OEM coil pack. I choose to get some GD STI plug coils and Fuji Racing : https://www.fujiracing.com/product/newage-coil-pack-conversion-wiring-loom/
After installation of the intercooler and the coils, the car doesn't start anymore. I just realized this for the help: "Note if using 2 coils per Ignition Drive and external igniters you will need to wire the Ignition Drive into two igniter channels with the corresponding igniter outputs going to one of the coils each (never wire one igniter output to two coils)."
I don't want to wire it on Direct Spark because the harness won’t last and will be changed on the next years. What should I do? Go back to the OEM coil pack and relocate it?

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5 hours ago, DenisAlmos said:

Note if using 2 coils per Ignition Drive and external igniters

GD coils wouldnt have external ignitors, they have ignitors built in.  If you have smart coils you can wire 2 coils in wasted spark pairs to a single ign drive.

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Thanks @Adamw for the information. I didn't knew about GD coils.

What is the technical problem being this? Is it about spark occurring not at the same time?

Can you however explain why this kit is supposed to work on the factory coil pack?

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On 5/22/2023 at 3:19 AM, Adamw said:

GD coils wouldnt have external ignitors, they have ignitors built in.  If you have smart coils you can wire 2 coils in wasted spark pairs to a single ign drive.

I believe he is speaking about a 99-00 spec GC8 (because EJ205 engine), these have a smartcoil from factory with 2 trigger wires and 4 outputs for wasted spark. 

The fuji adapter does exactly what you describe. goes from the single plug from stock coil to each individual coils and split the ign output into 2.

I don't see any reason it wouldn't work unless the triggering of the GD coil works somehow differently to the GC one. 

charging time of the coil are in the same ballpark.

 

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@dx4picco and @Adamw my car is a EUDM V6 WRX called "Impreza GT turbo" here in Europe.

This means it had the OEM V6 coil pack before I installed the GD COP and the fuji adaptor.

Is it enough information for you?

Do you think anything could have been damaged during my start test with GD coils?

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Assuming your car originally had the coilpack like the pic below then the conversion harness should just work with no changes to the configuration.  If this is what you had then start by removing a coil/plug and using the ign test to confirm if there is a spark or not. 

 

 

3E7ZTDa.png

 

 

 

If your original coil looked more like the one below then there would need to be an ignitor bypass fitted.  

hXPxB64.png

 

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Well I had time to spent on the car this weekend and I realized it's not starting because of trigger 1 not having a stable signal. It might be a malfunction wire, I have reattached the engine harness during the installation of the Fuji adaptor. Unattaching the harness didn't solve the problem.

I assume trigger 1 is crank shaft position and trigger 2 is camshaft position?

Is it possible to run with camshaft sensor only? I know some Subaru tuners uses cam senor only on track cars for reliability.

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Can you post a trigger scope of engine cranking?  Perhaps it's a setting that can be adjusted? 

I don't know of a trigger mode on the Link that doesn't use Trig 1 (crank position) but I do know you can use just that and the wheel can potentially be mounted at the CAM, but Adam will have to let you know if that's feasible with your setup and particular trigger wheels.

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@koracing You can have a look at the trigger scope log here: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1kA-OFcxPXWSQntr877uk_vnjS3XnJZ5_?usp=sharing

Trigger 2 looks to be working properly but Trigger 1 just gives a few oscillations but quickly gives no more signal, about one engine cycle.

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You either have a bad connection or a dead sensor.  But since the problem apparently occurred after you disturbed the wiring I would lean more towards a bad connection.  Set up a multimeter measuring the resistance between ground and trig 1 pin at the ecu while wiggling/bending/yanking/pulling all the relevant bits of loom to find the issue.  You will see the resistance jump around when you find the problem spot. 

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After searching for a defective wire or connector pin, I didn’t found anything wrong with a multimeter. I’ve tested sparely the car harness and the engine harness or both connected together.
The sensor resistance is 2050hOms. As my other GC8 sensor as the same resistance and runs great, I thought it’s not the problem.
I pulled everything again and it works! The signal was back and the car started.
I’m worried of the problem happened again just before a run at the track but what else can I do?

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