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Afr pin out link g4x


BrianC13

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I am having trouble connecting my afr to my ecu as it is my first time I have the afr working rn I have power to it and ground to chassis but I’m left with 2 wires white(signal from 02 sensor) and blue(0-5v for data logging) which I wanna hook up to the ecu I’m not sure if both are necessary I do have an expansion loom for the ecu if that makes it easier. Please let me know where these should be connected and how to set it up.

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It's the White (0-5v Output) wire you want to connect to an Analog Volt input on the ECU.

Then create a Linear Cal for Lambda and make it 0v = 0.683 and 4.99v = 1.365.

I have to warn you though... This Lambda controller is garbage.

I used one for awhile and it gave terrible readings that changed day to day because it doesn't have a dedicated Sensor Ground wire.
It's good for a "close enough" overview of if you're "lean", "rich" or "about on target"... but absolutely useless to use for accurate Closed Loop control.

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Well noted, i will be upgrading in to the x series in the future.

I will go ahead and create a Linear Cal for Lambda when im home see how this goes.

 I also have an oil pressure gauge and would like to hook it up to the ecu as well. Where would i connect this to? Its currently working as well with power and ground to chassis and i am left with a blue wire and white wire for it as well.

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IMO, ditch the AEM stuff (i.e., sell it onto some other unsuspecting person who isn't using a modern, capable ECU and wants a selection of Check Engine Lights littering their dash that they're not really going to be paying that much attention to when driving hard), and go direct into the ECU - for oil pressure a high quality sensor wired directly, for lambda a Link CAN Lambda module.

If you then feel the need to have a visual display of what's going on, add a single CANBUS gauge/dash.

Let the ECU have access to the sensor first, and react to the data, and then after that have a visual indication if you wish.

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Okay i am kinda new to this but at the moment i am trying to work with what i currently have so i am just wondering where i can add the oil pressure wire to the ecu on the expansion loom i have?
As i previously stated i have a blue wire and a white wire coming from the oil pressure gauge. 

Its a AEM guage part number is 35-8460

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Probably similar to the wideband, which DerekAE86 has indicated - the (probably) blue wire goes to a spare Analog input, and it's probably a linear calibration that 0.5v = 0psi and 4.5v = 100/150psi (depending on which version of the gauge you have).

 

Again, this value might vary wildly from day-to-day, the analog outputs on these older AEM units are awful.

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1 minute ago, BrianC13 said:

I definitely will in the future. Suggestions on what gauges are best to run?

The CAN gages on the market are pretty cool. Link sells ones that appears to be a private-labeled version of the GageArt unit. BTI sells another.

Bottom line, it can be configured to display anything the ECU is aware of. It can show one, two or four channels at a time. You can configure multiple "pages" and cycle through those pages with the touch of a button. Very nice.

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Yep, there's a huge variety of CAN gauges and dashes, you can even use an Android tablet or headunut.

As said, they're configurable, they can generally all show multiple pieces of data, and react to certain conditions to show you when things are not as expected - this change/warning is substantially better than a dedicated gauge for a single parameter where nothing much changes.

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7 hours ago, BrianC13 said:

AEM guage part number is 35-8460

This is the O2 gauge part number. Which Oil Pressure gauge part number are you using?

If it's the 30-4401/-4407 one, it's also the white wire for the analog voltage output. And it's also garbage since it doesn't have a dedicated sensor ground lol.

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Go to Analog Inputs -> Lambda 1 and set the source to An Volt 9 and then set the calibration to a free Linear Cal (no need to use a Cal Table)

Then go to Analog Inputs -> Calibration Tables -> Linear Cal 1/2/3 (which ever you picked) and input the range I listed before.

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That picture is showing Calibration: None

You dont need to set the error high/low if you dont want to. It's just so the ECU knows if the sensor has failed.

For example if the normal operational range of the sensor is 1v to 4v, and you NEVER see anything less or more, you could set the error range to low 0.9v and high 4.1v. Then the error value is the reading the ECU will default to if it goes into one of those error ranges.

For example if the coolant sensor fails low or high it might report back -40degc or 180degc (random numbers I made up) which will obviously make a huge difference to the fueling calculation.

But at full operating temp an engine is usually around 80-90degc. So you could set the error value to something close to that so at least the engine will still run "well enough" at operating temp with the failed sensor until you can change it.

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You can utilize a Cal Table like this:

4i6Ivgu.png

Just have to set the axis of the Cal Table to the voltage divisions required.
In the case of this Lambda output its totally Linear so you only need to set the lowest and highest point.

Which is why I suggested just using a Linear Cal instead:

sTlr3ig.png

Just want to make it clear that Linear Cals and Cal Tables are two different things for different purposes.
You typically only use a Cal Table when the output of the sensor is Non-Linear.

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Okay so I got a reading they are both not reading the same (I know these gauges are a bit off because of the model) but I will have my tuner have a quick look if anything I did is off

now I hooked up the oil pressure to analog 10 and I am gonna use linear cal do I have to convert psi to kpa to get readings my gauge is 0-150 

6594C5FF-B734-4C29-A6A4-CDB15C4D45F3.jpeg

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23 minutes ago, BrianC13 said:

Okay so I got a reading they are both not reading the same (I know these gauges are a bit off because of the model) but I will have my tuner have a quick look if anything I did is off

This is totally normal because they are really just that terrible. I found mine to be off by around 1 AFR in some cases.

The Link works in Metric units so yeah you will need to make your calibration in kPa. 150psi = 1034.22kPa
You'll probably find it should be Low 0.5v = 0kPa and High 4.5v = 1034.2kPa.

Not that it really matters much because it won't be accurate anyway because these old AEM units can never be correct.

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