Kalergie83 Posted July 24, 2023 Report Share Posted July 24, 2023 Hello, I own a Toyota Mr2 Turbo. Currently working with my mechanic on a project for which we have the Plug in G4+ for Mr2/Celica ST205. My mechanic is not experienced with ECUs. We have been dealing with our link dealer up to now but he is fully booked so I am hoping to get some help here. The link dealer so far has done the set up on our ECU through remote access on our laptop. As far as we can see, he worked until step 6.6. Told us to start the engine. The ignition is running but the engine won't start. We can think of 3 potential reasons: 1)Trigger calibration as mentioned in chapter 6.7 has not been done. 2) Incorrect Trigger Offset as in this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pllSwOmnoxE If this is the problem, could you tell us how to figure this out and hit the correct number in the software? Literally by trial and error? 3)The injector impedance. The injectors installed have 40 Ohm. We installed the original Toyota resistors (13.8Ohm) as well as advised by the dealer but we are not sure they are the correct ones. Could you advise what the impedance needs to be and we double check? Can Link help me finalize this please? If you have any other possible sources we could check? Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koracing Posted July 24, 2023 Report Share Posted July 24, 2023 Are you sure your injectors are 40 ohm? That's *really* high. What injectors exactly are they? Original MR2 resistors are like 6-7 Ohm on the MR2 and the original injectors are 2-3Ohm. Is your measuring device accurate? Most high impedance injectors I've checked are in the 10-16ohm range so something isn't right there. Get a different meter and check the resistance again. If you do have injectors in the 10-16ohm range, you should be bypassing the OEM resistor pack (connecting all 5 wires that run to it together). It also may help to post a copy of your base tune, a PC Datalog of attempting to start, and a trigger scope. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted July 24, 2023 Report Share Posted July 24, 2023 If the injectors click using the injector test function then you can probably assume they are ok. Doing a log of a start attempt and attaching that along with a copy of your tune would be the first step. https://youtu.be/_P1LRANeO4A Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kalergie83 Posted July 26, 2023 Author Report Share Posted July 26, 2023 Hi guys, Thanks for your replies. Apologies for being unclear. We took-over a half built project car. So things are quite confusing for us too. The previous builder was a bit sparse with infos but told us the injectors were 850cc. We measured the injectors impedance again and they are in fact only 12.8Ohm. We went ahead and bypassed the OEM resistor pack (as explained by koracing). We ran the injector test function and all injectors clicked. Right after the injector test, we recorded a data log of a start attempt and surprisingly, the engine actually started! However, it runs extremely badly; it appears that at least one cylinder isn't firing. Please see data log and base map attached. Thanks for your help.Edit: I just scrolled through the PCLink software and noticed that ignition Mode was set to "Distributor". Shouldn't this be set to "Direct Spark" since each cylinder has its own ignition coil? Edit2: In the interest of full transparency, let me list all the mods I can think of just to make sure. It was originally supposed to be done by a tuner/link dealer but he let me down. Now have to finish it myself with another mechanic. This list is from my dealer's invoice (translated from German): -Turbocharger GTX3076 -Water cooled intercooler -Adjustable camshaft sprockets -Single ignition set with bridge -Link Map sensor -Link Lambda -Link EGT+controller -Knock sensor -Walbro fuel pump 340L/hr -850cc injectors -Forged internals First start.llg Tune 1.pclr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koracing Posted July 28, 2023 Report Share Posted July 28, 2023 Yes you need to have the ignition set to direct spark to get all 4 ignition drivers firing the 4 coils. You may want to perform an ignition coil test after changing modes and make sure hear each coil firing - it will be quiet but you should be able to hear them if there isn't a lot of background noise. How were the 4 coils wired as that is not an OEM installation? Is this a kit from an aftermarket dealer? What coils specifically are you using? What generation engine do you have? It may be a good idea to adjust the dwell table depending on what coils they are as the original single coil igniter had dwell control on the gen2 3SGTE engines. There's also few other things in your tune I find odd, but getting it started and running correctly is the first step. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kalergie83 Posted July 30, 2023 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2023 Thanks for your reply. Really appreciate it. I try to provide as much detail as I can. It's the japanese Gen3 3SGTE engine. The coils are aftermarket, but my dealer just quoted a generic kit. We tried to see if there's a label on them but cannot see any, unfortunately. We got a schematic wiring instructions for the coils. As per the wiring instructions, each coil has 4 pins. One pin for signal going to the respective ECU ignition pins, one pin is 12V, 2 pins for ground. We wired the signal pins to the ECU as per LinkG4+ manual: ignition 1 signal to pin 20, ignition 2 signal to pin 7, ignition 3 signal to pin 8, ignition 4 signal to pin 17. Some updates since your last input: -Set the ignition to direct spark. -Performed an ignition coils test and we could hear them. -Attempted a start and had a few loud misfires and the engine did not start. -Reversed trigger offset by -360degrees (to -345). Started engine again and it started immediately, no misfires. We didn't want to go any further from here and would appreciate your help on what to do now. Can provide updated tune and log files of successful start on Monday. Thanks a lot for your help already! EDIT: My mechanic is sick at the moment. Can't do a log unfortunately. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koracing Posted August 3, 2023 Report Share Posted August 3, 2023 It sounds like you're exactly where you should be. Fire it up and start tuning. If you need help doing that, message me and we can discuss your needs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kalergie83 Posted August 4, 2023 Author Report Share Posted August 4, 2023 On 8/3/2023 at 8:18 AM, koracing said: It sounds like you're exactly where you should be. Fire it up and start tuning. If you need help doing that, message me and we can discuss your needs. Cool. Thanks. In the meantime, is there some sort of tutorial for basic tuning. So when I come back with questions we don't start from 0. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koracing Posted August 4, 2023 Report Share Posted August 4, 2023 I don't know of a basic tutorial, but basically you are trying to change the fuel table to have AFR match AFR target at every cell. There's a bit that goes into that, but that's the basics. I start with making it idle and rev, and return to idle ok. Then I move on to driving low load, and then finally wide open throttle. Lots of other stuff to set up along that path as well, but that's a basic outline. INSW20 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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