Gnomefabtech Posted February 16 Report Share Posted February 16 I'm using a G4X Monsoon on a Turbo Hayabusa engine that has been modified to have an external 36-1 trigger wheel and a Hall sensor. Otherwise it's using the rest of the Hayabusa sensors and they are all behaving properly. Hayabusa Throttle bodies with 650cc injectors. It will fire and try and run on starting fluid and the spark timing checks out. I can get the injectors to spray fuel in test mode no problem but they will not inject fuel when cranking. A test light shows some signal to the injectors under cranking but it's not enough to overcome the dead time it seems. On the injector monitor I see 1ms when cranking and that doesn't seem to change no matter what I do. The engine cranks at about 400 rpm. I'm attaching the config file here because it seems like there is some kind of fuel cut activated that I don't know about. There may be other mistakes as well but I can chase those down if I can get the engine to run I think. Thanks 914Abu2_15_24.pclx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
essb00 Posted February 16 Report Share Posted February 16 Fuel Equation Load Source -- Load=BAP ...while the Analog Input BAP source is set to 'None'. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gnomefabtech Posted February 16 Author Report Share Posted February 16 Thanks. I'll fix that and try it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted February 16 Report Share Posted February 16 Set BAP to internal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gnomefabtech Posted February 17 Author Report Share Posted February 17 I had two mistakes. I want to use LOAD=MAP and had the BAP not turned on. I'll be at the car tomorrow and see if I can get it all going. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gnomefabtech Posted February 18 Author Report Share Posted February 18 OK. Thanks for the info here because I did get the car to fire but it only ran for a moment and then died and never started again. Most of the time it just pops out the exhaust when cranking. Doesn't seem to respond to changes in timing much. I have very double checked that the trigger offset is correct using a timing light repeatedly. Since it's using a cam signal. also have tried subtracting 360 just in case I'm 360 off. No fire at all then. Here is the current config in case anyone can spot an error. I'm not sure if I have the start enrichment correct among other questions. 914Abus2_17_24.pclx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vaughan Posted February 18 Report Share Posted February 18 Can you attach a PC Log of a start attempt please A trigger scope would not be a bad idea either. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gnomefabtech Posted February 18 Author Report Share Posted February 18 I'm out of town for a couple weeks so I can't do the log file til then. If any of you see anything in the config that's glaring as an issue let me know though. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted February 19 Report Share Posted February 19 A few issues in your map: GP Limit 1 is limiting your RPM to 0. Your fuel table isnt suitable for modelled mode. You also want finer breakpoints on the TPS axis at small throttle openings with ITB's. With MAP correction the VE will typically be ~50-60% around idle and 100-110% at peak torque. The fuel map I have attached will be a closer starting point. Right-click on your fuel table, then >Import/Export>import from file. Your ECT input is showing 0V when you saved the map. Confirm that is working/connected. Your TPS was reading 1.2% when you saved the map. I would suggest calibrating this so that normal idle position is 0%. Your ignition table is not suitable for a boosted engine - although that wont stop it from running, be aware not to drive/ride it like that. Fuel Table GSXR600.lte Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gnomefabtech Posted February 19 Author Report Share Posted February 19 Wow. Thanks so much. Really helps. So just to be clear if I turn GP Limit to "none" will that fix that issue? I'll put in the table you sent me as a jumping off point. I saved the map with the ECU not connected so I think that's why the ECT voltage was zero. It works in range when everything is powered and going. I'll re-cal the TPS Yeah. That ig map is a place holder but great catch. Thanks again for the thoughtful replies. It's my first standalone rodeo and I'm learning the lamest way possible of course.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koracing Posted February 19 Report Share Posted February 19 Are you using the factory dual/staged injectors or an aftermarket set of single injectors? Also the stock Hayabusa displacement is 1340cc I'm pretty sure - you have it set to 1300? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gnomefabtech Posted February 20 Author Report Share Posted February 20 Aftermarket 640cc injectors. Single stage. Yes it’s a gen 1 so it is a 1300. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gnomefabtech Posted March 9 Author Report Share Posted March 9 After a short delay for work I'm back at it. Car runs now (yay) but the trigger offset has to be at -180. The missing tooth on my 36-1 wheel is at TDC so I really don't understand how it could be 180 degrees off. I can see 360 degrees off but not 180. I think it must have something to do with the cam position sensor. A bit of background, it's a Hayabusa Gen1 modded with an external crank pulley and 36-1 trigger wheel so the crank trigger is at a different place than stock. I used a configuration file that came from a friend's Link equipped Hayabusa engine as a starting point so I think there is something wrong with the cam position offset now that I have the crank position sensor in a new position. How do I set the cam position offset? Or do I just run it with the trigger calibration at -180 and not worry about it? I've checked it with a timing light and it's firing dead on the marker so that's working but I don't want injector timing or anything else to be off because of this. Thanks for the help. Here's the current config file. Still just a place holder ignition map. Running.pclx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted March 9 Report Share Posted March 9 If the missing tooth area is under the sensor with cyl 1 at TDC then the offset should be near 0, +360 or -360. -180 would suggest the coils are wired wrong or your TDC mark is not TDC. The cam sensor is only used for phase detection so can only change the offset by 360. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gnomefabtech Posted March 9 Author Report Share Posted March 9 Thanks for the info. When I do a spark test the correct coil fires so I don’t know what’s up but I’ll keep checking for mistakes. I’ve confirmed TDC a few ways but I’ll check again again. Hayabusa has odd firing order 1243 but I have that in the firing order table and it does run. So the cam sensor offset doesn’t matter as long as it’s able to run? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted March 9 Report Share Posted March 9 With a missing tooth wheel the ecu just checks if it "saw" a cam pulse in the last crank rev or not, it doesnt matter where it occurred. If you pull number 1 plug out and poke a screwdriver or similar down the plug hole then turn it over until the screwdriver reaches TDC, are your missing teeth under the sensor at that point? Have you fitted an ignitor or changed to smart coils? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gnomefabtech Posted March 9 Author Report Share Posted March 9 I checked TDC on the #1 with a piston stop and also with a dial indicator. I'm pretty certain I have the missing tooth very very close to TDC on the #1. I am using a Bosch igniter (Audi/VW style) and it's wired as per the instructions. I get a solid spark on each cylinder on spark test and it corresponds to the cylinder number correctly. So if I spark test #1 I get spark on the #1 coil and so forth. I thought I mis-wired the coil numbers to the ECU but checked again and it's right. Same goes for the injectors btw. Is there another timing offset that I might have set wrong elsewhere in the configuration? I don't mind just running it like this but I kind of want to solve the mystery too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted March 10 Report Share Posted March 10 14 hours ago, Adamw said: If the missing tooth area is under the sensor with cyl 1 at TDC then the offset should be near 0, +360 or -360. -180 would suggest the coils are wired wrong or your TDC mark is not TDC. Im not sure how to make it any clearer than that. If your offset is -180 and the coils are wired correctly then the missing teeth are passing the sensor 180° before TDC #1. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gnomefabtech Posted March 10 Author Report Share Posted March 10 Your explanation is totally clear to me and I really thank you for your time here. I'll be at the car tomorrow and I'll triple check that my gap tooth is right at TDC and also check the coil wiring order. Here's a question: Does the "spark test" go through the firing order table first? Or is it a 1=1, 2=2 etc? The answer seems like it would have to be "test" 1 = coil 1 but I'm just asking in case. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted March 10 Report Share Posted March 10 With the ignition test set to "Ignition 1", the ecu is firing the output that is labelled Ign 1 in our pinouts. Test "Ignition 2" fires "Ign 2" pin. And those outputs should also be wired to the same cylinder number - So testing "Ignition 1" should give a spark on Cyl 1 coil, test Ignition 2 should spark at cyl 2 coil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gnomefabtech Posted March 10 Author Report Share Posted March 10 Perfecto. I'll get to the car and test all this out one more time and report my "findings". Thanks again, this is my first standalone ecu rodeo so I'm a bit behind. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gnomefabtech Posted March 14 Author Report Share Posted March 14 Well, unsurprisingly you were right and I had my trigger wheel 180 off where I thought it was. I must have used my piston stop to find TDC on the #2 cylinder by accident. Not sure how I did that but the engine runs well now. Thanks so much for the help. My next project is to make a good ignition map since the one I have is not suitable for a turbo hayabusa engine. What is a suggested way to make a jumping off point? I'm guessing it should be based on MAP not TPS? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted March 15 Report Share Posted March 15 Yeah, use MAP (or MGP if you prefer vacuum = negative values) on the Ign table. Up to atmospheric pressure the advance values will be very similar to a NA ign table, above atmosphere you can use a rough rule of thumb like -1.5deg/psi which will usually result in something fairly conservative assuming compression and fuel are suitable for boost. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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