jupe_e Posted December 1, 2016 Report Share Posted December 1, 2016 Just tried to fire up my engine with Vipec V44. Got 36-1 in crank with honeywell hall sensor. I can't get engine speed. When rotating engine with starter Trigger1 signal goes to YES and aux1 which is fuelpump relay pulls up allso. No trigger errors at all. Tried another new hall sensor, but didn't help. Is the problem caused by bad trigger signal although there aren't any trigger errors counted? Have to find a scope from somewhere, but any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted December 1, 2016 Report Share Posted December 1, 2016 It doesn't sound like a trigger problem. Can you post your .pcl so we can have a look over the settings. Also a pc log of cranking might be helpful.Is the sensor a 1gt101? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted December 2, 2016 Report Share Posted December 2, 2016 Make sure that you have the Trig 2 sync set to off. I'm assuming you're not using an input on Trigger 2.Scott Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jupe_e Posted December 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2016 Thanks for answers. I'm not using trig2, so I'll check that. I think the sensor is that 1gt101. I'll get back to you later... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jupe_e Posted December 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2016 OK... Some testing. I had that trig2 sync on so that's why didn't have any engine speed. Now that part is ok. Thanks for that. Still haven't got spark. There might be one spark when I start cranking, nothing else... With ignition test spark is great, so I still have some issues with my software? Here is my pcl and log file while cranking. startti.pcl starttii.llg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted December 2, 2016 Report Share Posted December 2, 2016 I have only had a quick look but dont see any obvious problems in your settings. For some reason your log is a bit odd with some channels appear to be logged very slow and out of sync so it isnt as helpful as it could be, but again I dont see too much wrong. Have you checked coils actually have 12v during cranking?Also what sort of engine? You have injection mode set to single point group which is not common so I wonder if this is a mistake or you do actually have just a single injector? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jupe_e Posted December 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 2, 2016 It's cosworth yb engine.. Actually injection mode should have been off, so my mistake... I'm using vag wastedspark coil the same one that KMS uses. There was around 10v when cranking and that should be enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted December 5, 2016 Report Share Posted December 5, 2016 Some of the VWAG wasted spark coil assemblies don't have igniters internally. If yours does not you will need an external igniter with two channels between the ECU and the coil pack.Are the wasted spark coils in one pack? How many pins do (does) the coilpack(s) have?Scott. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jupe_e Posted December 7, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 7, 2016 (edited) This one have internal igniter (http://www.finjector.com/verkkokauppa/eng/bosch_hukkakipinapuola_paateasteella_4_syl_ei_tarvita_erillista_vahvistinta_bosch_0986221048-p-32691-42/) so thats not the problem. I'll borrow scope tomorrow, so I can test ignition channels while cranking Edited December 7, 2016 by jupe_e Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted December 8, 2016 Report Share Posted December 8, 2016 The ignition outputs of the ECU should have pulses of 4.0 to 5.0v. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jupe_e Posted December 11, 2016 Author Report Share Posted December 11, 2016 Didn't got the scope, but hopefully next weekend. But I made a test. Disconnected trigger, ignition test on and cranked the engine. Spark was good, so there isn't any problems with voltage... I'm starting to think that there is some issues with the box itself... But scope will tell the truth when I get one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jupe_e Posted January 23, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 Finally got the scope. With ignition test pulses are good and continuous without any errors. When I crank engine it only gives pulse rarely. But when pulse comes It looks good. Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted January 23, 2017 Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 Not sure if this will be the issue during cranking but if the crank sensor is a GT101 it will become an issue at higher RPM. The frequency range of the GT101 is average and is only really good on low tooth count applications.Try cranking the engine with the plugs out and the coils unplugged and then see if you get consistent ignition signals from the ECU. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted January 23, 2017 Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 Further to Simon's advice, if you still have access to your scope could you connect it to the crank sensor and do a capture of the engine cranking.Although I have seen the GT101 work quite successfully on many applications, I have heard many experienced people say never to use them on missing tooth wheels even if your tooth count and size fits within the recommended range. The reason is they are not just a hall sensor but they also have some logic built into them to correct for minor wheel run-out and tooth timing variations - so when a missing tooth appears they try to correct for it and distort the wave form around that area. This may be what is happening at cranking speeds so a scope trace should hopefully confirm if this is the case.If this turns out to be your problem then there is an alternative sensor from Cherry or ZF that is a direct drop in replacement (search for Cherry GS101202), it does not have this built in "logic" and has higher frequency range so is more suitable for missing tooth wheels. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jupe_e Posted January 24, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2017 I have access to scope, because had to by my own one. I'll check the crank sensor signal soon. I have cranked it with and without plugs and no difference. I'll get back to you... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jupe_e Posted January 27, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2017 I tested the trigger signal and I think the problem is in honeywell crank sensor. I could't see the missing tooth in signal. I talked to my friend about it and he had the same problem with vems ecu. He changed wheel to 12-1 then the sensor could reed the missing tooth and spark was found. So next I'll test different crank sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted January 27, 2017 Report Share Posted January 27, 2017 Good work, definitely sounds like the GT101 is the problem. The easy fix will be to drop in that cherry sensor I mentioned earlier. They can be found quite cheap in most countries, try mouser, digikey or farnell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jupe_e Posted March 17, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 17, 2017 Finally had time to continue with this. I changed the trigger sensor to cherry gs100502 and spark was found Thanks for help.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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