ashesman

It will be selectable on Aux channels 1 to 4 in the latest firmware...

Sounds like the USB chip has failed or been blown up! Best send it back to have it checked. The tune will be exactly as it was like time a "Store" was done so assuming it was tuned correctly before there will be no chance of damaging your engine...

Use the Device Manager as described above to force windows to reassign the drivers to that device. You will never need to remove the drivers. Even if the ECU was plugged in before the drivers were installed and windows assigned some useless drivers, you can still just do an update drivers in the device manager to fix the problem. The other thing to check is that you havn't got two devices connected that are assigned the same com port number.

I dont know what "Speed to ECU" even is! You can wire speed to preferably one of the first four digial inputs. Just set that channel as speed and enter a calibration number. You can share the same speed signal between the ECU and dash without problems...

Just wire it exactly the same as the factory AVCS engine is wired... Look on the interweb and you will find all the pinouts and information you need...

Done... Keep an eye out for the release of the G4 range of ECU's...

Did you plug in your ECU before installing drivers? Are you using Windows XP or Vista? If you answered yes to both of those questions then do the following: Reinstall PCLink (using the latest version). Then go to Control Panel->System->Hardware->Device Manager. Find any entries related to Link ECU that have an explanation mark beside them (Look under Ports (COM and LPT) and USB). Right click on these and open the properties. Find update driver and do what it tells you.

I would be surprised if you could get USB working on the PDA as I dont belive the USB drivers are designed to work on anything but Windows XP and Vista... Why not just purchase a DisplayLink cable and use the ECU's RS232 serial port...

Load 2 is one pin to the right of Trig 1. I havn't looked into if this idea is feasible and will leave that up to you...

There are definitely plans to implement traction control, but that feature is a little way down the priority list at the moment. Wether it will ever be available in G3 ECU's, well I dont really know...

It cant be done. Custom map sensor cals were removed to prevent people messing up map sensor cals as it is vital for the tune that this is correct. If you have a datasheet or calibration information for the sensor we may be able to add it. Otherwise we would need to run one through our calibration tester. Custom calibrations will not be available in G3 ECU's.

Are you using a plug in EVOLink G3 or a wire in jobby? ECU Hold Power is the function that the ECU uses to control the main relay. This allows the ECU to keep the system powered up while it resets the idle stepper at key off. If you are using a wire in ECU, then you must wire this correctly using a diode as per the instruction manual. If you are using a plug in ECU then it shoudl all just work. You must have DI6 set to ignition switch and have a working ignition switch signal on DI6 also. The ECU type can be found in PCLink's help menu. Make sure the ECU type is a EVOLink 1-8 G3 if it is plugged directly into an EVO. If the car isn't an evo or doesn't use an idle stepper, then turn ECU hold power off as it will cut the engine from starting...

To get it right on the street you are looking for best throttle response. Make sure you are running the latest firmware as it has new accel fueling. On a LEM G3 use wakeup settings to improve the response. Subaru engines are pretty snotty about having the light throttle accel (just off idle) right. Although it is very hard to tune without some sore of wideband to tell you if you are going the right or wrong way...

I believe there are a few other display products out there that are now using the Link protocol. A few guys on these forums have said they are going to make a "fast and furios" dash board display for the ECU's but I dont believe any of them finished their projects! I think a few guys have run PCLink on Linux using a windows emulator but there may be some issues with the com ports.

Either of our wire in ECU's (LEM G3 or LinkPlus G3) will do absolutely everything you mentioned above (and plenty more!). If you have spent a bit of money on the motor it is probably justified checking out the LinkPlus G3 for the additional features. Have a look on the website for more info...

Any setting expected to be found in older folders can be updated to newer folders in PCLink. It is just the graphics/gauge setup file that sometimes is found in older folders...

The ECU is shipped with a standard configuration. There will be no base map that you can just put in and go (unless your tuner has one that will be closer than the standard one). In general the standard map is close enough to start your engine with some master fuel adjustment s and get it running long enough to check it will be ok for the dyno (no leaks etc...). Your installer will have to go through and set up all the inputs and outputs for whatever they are wired to. Each output can be put into test mode to test wiring. After that its a matter of setting engine configuration such as cylinder count, firing order, injection mode and ignition type. Next triggers (cam and crank sensors) will be set up and tested. After that set base timing with the motor cranking, then it can be fired up. On first running the engine adjust master so it is not too rich or lean. After that, get it straight onto the dyno as running it unnecessarily and unloaded is a good way to reduce the chances of new rings bedding in and all that. As far as switching fuels go. If you have a tune for each fuel, it makes sense that you should only have that fuel in the tank when running that tune. But I'm sure a very slight mix wont make too much difference.

If the coils power AFTER the ECU then there will be no problems. G3 ECU's are designed to take care of this situation but a G2 is a little different. The factory loom will not power the fuel pump and the coils together (well not that I have ever seen before). It may be necessary to switch the power feed for the coils to a relay that is switched on by an ECU auxiliary output (always on Test ON) or off the fuel pump auxiliary output.

Set the throttle position at running temperature so that about 0% DC (ISC solenoid blocked off) gives a idles speed of about 500RPM. This ensures that in any idle speed failure the engine will comfortably idle at 500 RPM (not cold!) and relieves the idle control of trying to deal with an engine that tends to stall.

Every thing that is adjustable in PCLink is adjustable with the tuning module. Your target table is more important than any other boost adjustment. Have a look at the zone table in the back of the manual to get an idea of adjustments...

That sensor will be fine. Just make sure you enter the correct calibration in PCLink...

The diode can just be clipped out without replacing it with anything... Boost control adjustments will not effect fuel or ignition, just control of boost. The most important thing for using closed loop boost control on those older ECU's is to make sure your targets are not too unrealistic. If your engine can only produce 1.5 bar of boost at 3000 RPM, then set the target to 1.5 or 1.6 bar, not the 2 bar that you want the engine to run (as it cant!). Up top end where it can make heaps of boost set the target to what you want it to be. So, your targets will increase as they go across the target table to the right, then flatten where you want constant boost.

Running an odd fire engine is not a problem, just that your engine is not in the list! If we had all the firing information then we could add it to the list but it wont be in time for your project. Lets just hope its not an odd fire engine...

There are a few problems here: Multi tooth mode must have a sync pulse. You actually need to be running 1 tooth per TDC Trigger Mode.A one tooth per TDC mode should have a reasonable crank dwell extension (say 10ms) and also have longer dwell time at cranking voltages. this is due to a low tooth count and the engine accelerating and decelerating between pulses.Are you sure its an odd fire engine? If the poles round the distributor cap are evenly spaced then you have nothing to worry about. If they are not then that ECU will not be able to run the ignition. If the reluctor teeth and distributor cap poles are all evenly spaced (and the distributor belons to that motor) then there should be no problems.I would advise against doing fuel only unless absolutely necessary as you have paid for mapped ignition control so should enjoy the benefits...

If you want to run a reluctor and hall sensor you will need a special sub board. If your engine runs wasted spark ignition then you could just run with a crank sensor only but would only be able to do group fire injection. We would need to more information about the number of teeth on the cam and crank and the types of sensors to get this sorted. You should probably get on the phone to get this solved quickly...