iceman Posted August 26, 2019 Report Share Posted August 26, 2019 Hi, I have a Walbro 255L in tank pump in a Nissan Z32 project car which is presently configured through a G4+ as simply on/off through a relay. I'm finding it hard on battery life during tuning, especially chasing a hard start issue. As a means of lowering the current draw, electrical and pump duty plus to generally finesse the fuel delivery system, I'm after a fuel pump controller. Either a PWM or fixed two or three stage speed type like the original Z32 unit would be good but more reliable as I bypassed the OEM controller some time ago after fuel pressure issues. Link reseller NZEFI did sell an OEM looking unit a while back which is no longer available but can anyone recommend another make/type that I can adapt to the job running the G4+ ECU? The aftermarket Aeromotive and AEM units are a tad expensive... Cheers, Pete. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott C Posted August 26, 2019 Report Share Posted August 26, 2019 Look into a crydom, hella, or jaycar solid state relay and use an Aux Out as a GP PWM to control the pump as you'd like. Some info in this thread: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevieturbo Posted August 30, 2019 Report Share Posted August 30, 2019 255 is a small pump, it does not draw a lot of current. And how does it affect tuning/starting unless you are not running an alternator or the system is not charging ? Or is the battery in poor condition ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barge Posted September 3, 2019 Report Share Posted September 3, 2019 I'm using a Siemens/Jaguar unit. That's what the NZEFI is/was assuming you're referring to this out of stock item. https://www.nzefi.com/product/fuel-pump-pwm-speed-controller/ You can find them easily on ebay for under $100. Look for a Jaguar XF fuel pump controller. I've got a supply of the connectors and can get you one for a couple bucks or help you with some harnessing. https://www.jaguartroy.com/order-parts-and-accessories.htm?path=%2Foem-parts%2Fjaguar-fuel-pump-controller-c2c35672%3Fc%3DZz1mdWVsLXN5c3RlbSZzPWZ1ZWwtc3lzdGVtLWNvbXBvbmVudHMmbD0yNCZuPUFzc2VtYmxpZXMgUGFnZSZhPWphZ3VhciZvPXhmJnk9MjAxMSZ0PXN1cGVyY2hhcmdlZCZlPTUtMGwtdjgtZ2Fz I believe that would be a new one. I have a wiring diagram too that I can dig up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iceman Posted September 4, 2019 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2019 Thanks, barge. After further digging I had actually sussed that the NZEFI unit was the same as some Range Rover, Jag, Volvo and Ford (Euro) pieces after posting. I had found many for sale on ebay and even one here in NZ (ex Mondeo) which I have bought circa $NZ125 and am waiting for it to arrive. The NZEFI units are apparently back in stock mid month with a loom plug. The only difference between theirs and the OEM ones is they have cleaned them up and mounted them on an additional alloy(?) plate, presumably for extra heat sink capacity. I have also found pin out info for the units from another person online adapting them but confirmation from whatever diagram you have would be good thanks. If I can't source a loom plug locally for it I'll adapt an inline connector/loom or get back to you. The jaguartroy link you posted appears to be for an earlier or later, plastic cased version rather than the alloy heat sink boxed unit. No doubt it would do the same job in enabling PWM of a fuel pump via the Link G4+ ECUs. Scott C: Saw that thread during a search thanks. No definite outcome as a long term fix as yet from what I read. Stevieturbo: Running a newish high CCA rated battery with a charging alternator thanks. Chasing a bad hot start issue by continually test cranking on the starter and having the fuel pump prime every time still tends to discharge the battery. I'm now running a second battery in parallel with jumper leads just while chasing the issue which has improved the situation. I still feel a proper variable speed control of the pump will have several advantages, not just lower electrical load. Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barge Posted September 4, 2019 Report Share Posted September 4, 2019 Cut from a Jaguar Service Manual that I have. PWM is Switched Low, 100Hz, 0-50% DC for 0-100% pump. I did not connect the monitor in my vehicle. Also of note i'm currently supplying it with 18V via a voltage booster. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevieturbo Posted September 8, 2019 Report Share Posted September 8, 2019 Really..if an engine start start within 2-3 seconds, continually cranking is not a solution. You need to establish why it is not starting....and all goes back to basics. air, fuel, spark, all at correct time and quantities. Hot starting almost any engine should be easy. Cold engines yes may take a little fettling, but hot starts should be easy. If a little fuel pump is draining the battery, well...it isnt, something else must be.. get the engine to start correctly first, before adding more complications into the mix. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iceman Posted September 22, 2019 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2019 This is obviously a related thread to that from Adzn3K as to options for speed controlling fuel pump(s). Pros and cons re the added fuel system complication aside, I am looking at wiring and configuring a "Continental" brand (same as the NZEFI and Barge's one above) fuel pump controller. The way I understand it, an Aux channel is required for turning on the fuel pump relay and presumably another aux channel will be required to control the PWM signal to the controller. However, the fuel pump control section of the Link help files states that the dual/triple "fixed" speed control methods require 2 aux channels, one for the pump relay, the other for the controller switching, which makes sense. But then it says the three stage PWM speed controller method only requires one Aux channel... How then is the fuel pump relay then switched on? Can someone clarify please. Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adzn3k Posted September 22, 2019 Report Share Posted September 22, 2019 On 9/3/2019 at 1:50 PM, barge said: I'm using a Siemens/Jaguar unit. That's what the NZEFI is/was assuming you're referring to this out of stock item. https://www.nzefi.com/product/fuel-pump-pwm-speed-controller/ You can find them easily on ebay for under $100. Look for a Jaguar XF fuel pump controller. I've got a supply of the connectors and can get you one for a couple bucks or help you with some harnessing. https://www.jaguartroy.com/order-parts-and-accessories.htm?path=%2Foem-parts%2Fjaguar-fuel-pump-controller-c2c35672%3Fc%3DZz1mdWVsLXN5c3RlbSZzPWZ1ZWwtc3lzdGVtLWNvbXBvbmVudHMmbD0yNCZuPUFzc2VtYmxpZXMgUGFnZSZhPWphZ3VhciZvPXhmJnk9MjAxMSZ0PXN1cGVyY2hhcmdlZCZlPTUtMGwtdjgtZ2Fz I believe that would be a new one. I have a wiring diagram too that I can dig up. Do you have a copy of that wiring diagram mate? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iceman Posted September 22, 2019 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2019 Three posts up.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iceman Posted September 23, 2019 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2019 OK to result this, I think I have finally worked out that the "fuel pump" aux out is just replaced with "fuel pump control" on the same aux channel if you want to run a PWM speed controller. I see the latter has a prime time setting as well so "fuel pump" and "fuel pump control" are basically combined on the single aux channel used instead of separate channels like the OEM wiring diagram I have been confused over. Adzn3K , the pin out on the "Continental" PWM fuel pump controller a few posts up has it's socket pins clearly numbered 1-6, cast into the plastic socket on the inside surface. That corresponds to the wiring diagram above, eg: pins 1 - 6 correspond to pins C4ES15/1- C4ES15/6. Note: you don't need the monitor pin C4ES15/2, only the other 5 pins. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MagicMike Posted September 23, 2019 Report Share Posted September 23, 2019 I use the SSR method to control 2 x 460/485 (whatever) pumps in my Z32. Works great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted September 23, 2019 Report Share Posted September 23, 2019 7 hours ago, iceman said: OK to result this, I think I have finally worked out that the "fuel pump" aux out is just replaced with "fuel pump control" on the same aux channel if you want to run a PWM speed controller. I see the latter has a prime time setting as well so "fuel pump" and "fuel pump control" are basically combined on the single aux channel used instead of separate channels like the OEM wiring diagram I have been confused over. Correct, the one aux can control fuel pump on/off and speed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barge Posted September 23, 2019 Report Share Posted September 23, 2019 10 hours ago, iceman said: OK to result this, I think I have finally worked out that the "fuel pump" aux out is just replaced with "fuel pump control" on the same aux channel if you want to run a PWM speed controller. I see the latter has a prime time setting as well so "fuel pump" and "fuel pump control" are basically combined on the single aux channel used instead of separate channels like the OEM wiring diagram I have been confused over. Adzn3K , the pin out on the "Continental" PWM fuel pump controller a few posts up has it's socket pins clearly numbered 1-6, cast into the plastic socket on the inside surface. That corresponds to the wiring diagram above, eg: pins 1 - 6 correspond to pins C4ES15/1- C4ES15/6. Note: you don't need the monitor pin C4ES15/2, only the other 5 pins. I run 2 outputs myself. 1 for a relay that I have connected to the battery to switch fuel pump power and then the fuel pump control/pwm signal that I use to send speed. And yes I think above should be everything you need for wiring and config. One oddity I noticed though was the the prime DC% doesn't seem to be scaled by the .5/1 scaling that i have set to convert 0-100% in the tables to 0-50% out. if I put 70% in the prime it won't prime. I have to use <50%. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
iceman Posted September 24, 2019 Author Report Share Posted September 24, 2019 Barge, I understand that it is the negative (3) from the pump that is PW modulated but regarding the positive pump pin (6), is that just a tap into your battery feed direct to the fuel pump or do you feed power from the battery through the controller supply (4) then out the pump positive pin (6) to the pump? Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barge Posted September 24, 2019 Report Share Posted September 24, 2019 Pins 1 and 4 are the "Supply" Pins 6 and 3 are the Pump Motor Connection So essentially 2 "power" wires in, 2 "power" wires out. Could you bypass the controller controller with 12v directly to the pump. I'm not sure. I never tried that. I think I used 12 awg for those 4 wires. See if this drawing helps. This is how it's wired in my Subaru. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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