Rozsko

Here you go. Freshly out of my car. The calibration process is very easy the new way. Hats off for that. Not sure how the 4 offsets/teeth came for you.

On the other hand, I finally got the unlock code, so I fired up the car. First time the idle was horrible. Actually didn't even want to idle and what was more weird is that the base position table had no effect on the idle speed. Neither in open or closed loop. This one I figured out after a few minutes. Not sure how or when, but the actuator was set to None, which is strange as in the first map I created based on the G4+ map I had in the car previously has this set to Ethrottle. Anyhow, now it is set to properly, but the closed loop and ignition idle controls are still bad. The car idles very nicely in open loop, but in closed loop (no ignition control) the PDI values have only Integral value and even that is very small and 0 P and 0 D, while the in the ignition idle control it has huge fluctuation in P and D, but I is always 0. For the ignition control I tried to pull down the P and D values to 5 and 10 respectively (there seems to be no option to specify I and this pretty much is in line with how the logged values look like), but it did not have any effect. It seems the the ignition control is just jumping between the min and max clamps, without any smoothness. For the closed loop mode, I just realized that the integral value can be changed in the actuator setup, so I will try that later, but here again in line with how the PID values are logged, there seems to be no option to change the P and D portion of the control. Not sure if these are by design (and should play a bit more with the PID numbers) or a fault, but as is it stands right now the best option is to go open loop. I attached a log file (with some markers and section to help with what's going on) and my current map in case you can take a look. What I also noticed is that the base position table requires very different values (with the same VE numbers) compared to the G4+. I also attach an other log file where the map itself wasn't changed at all, yet the idle was hugely erratic and the overrun fuel cut was jumping in (I guess) to decrease RPM. Without any change, at the next startup this has gone. Closed loop, open loop, ignition control: https://1drv.ms/u/s!Ale4oyMCOgLThMlGQbqbtgRpIkRdBA?e=B7Lgrx Cyclic idle with overrun fuel cut: https://1drv.ms/u/s!Ale4oyMCOgLThMlH4xi9oIFymOmOaw?e=lXuKgU An other issue I experienced is that (at least) some new features, like torque management has no help. Is this an issue with my install or these help sections are really not there yet? I still need to confirm the PS switch active state. Thanks, Béla Initital startup.pclx

Thanks a lot. The error code is gone now. Not sure what it was or why it came back the first time, but now it is gone.

Thanks Adam. Based on some of the Subaru technical documents I read, I am not sure if that 60 teeth is really required. It seems Subaru is using the crank sensor signal voltage to determine if the crank is slowing down which makes sense as the reluctor sensor is highly sensible to speed. Anyhow, if it is not possible, then that's it. Thanks again.

Then it is good, as I used both the gnd and +5V from the expansion connector and it feeds ANV11. Thanks

Unfortunately I can't share an actual equation, but I would like to calculate the time of each engine cycle. More precisely, the time of each power stroke. The purpose is the detect/verify misfires based on change in engine speed. I looked through the parameter list and was thinking about how I could use a timer or the edge count function, I couldn't figure out what should drive the activation of the timer or the reset of the edge function value. It seems that the trigger scope 1 and 2 can't be used in math blocks nor in the timer function. Do you guys have any idea how this could be achieved? Thanks, Béla

Played a little more the afternoon and finally connected the rotary switch I mounted earlier. While doing that, I spotted a small glitch either in the software or in the help file. There is no Label field, but the help says there should be one. Also wanted to ask about the wiring of the rotary switch. Is it ok if I used the sensor ground on the expansion connector to ground the switch? Or should I just use a chassis ground to do that? When I had my G4+ previously, I once realized that the fuel temp value was -34 C, so I set it inactive/off. At that time I did not have the time to check if there is actually a sensor in the tank or not, but now I did and there is no sensor, and the pin on the ECU (B17) has no wire either. I am not sure if this is an EDM specific thing or not, but if it is, I guess it would be nice if you could mention this somewhere in the help wiring or pinout functions, as I am sure there is a big difference in the calculated pulse width with -34 vs +20 C.

Just updated the firmware. After clearing the fault codes, it seems the ANV4-5 low voltage errors did not come back (and now I have the TGV option in the menu) and the Underflow error is also gone. However the overflow error (code#8) came back. Any more suggestion on that? Thanks Béla

Thanks a lot for your quick reply Adam! Really appreciate it! Correct, you could save as log in the G4+, yet this is much better. Sure thing. First thought when I looked at your suggestion: Am I really that dumb that I did not do that??? Fortunately not. There is no TGV option for me in the ECU config and the ANV4-5 do not have any function assigned. Firmware update? I do have a sensor and the gauge itself was showing the 3bar on initial key on pump prime, and was showing 0.00 when cranking.

Just got my new G4X yesterday, but obviously it is locked and since I ordered it from Australia, and it was Friday night there, I have to wait till Monday to get the unlock codes . Anyhow, I didn't stand to plug the ECU in and check a few things. First of all, I have to tell you that I love the new approach to the trigger scope. It is awesome that it is now integrated into the logging functionality instead of saving as an image. One thing in the base map I realized that the PS switch active state is high, but based on the old G4+ map I had I think it should be low. The other things I would need some help with are the following: ANV4 and 5 are TGV sensors, which are disabled for me, yet the ECU reports low voltage fault codes on these. Is there a way I can clear these so they never come back? I also have a fault code#9 "settings underflow error", but the help file doesn't have #9 fault code listed. From an older G4+ thread I guess it might have something to do with my CAN settings (maybe in the divider/multiplier), but I am not sure. I also had a similar fault, but the opposite. Settings overflow error. It is not active right now, but I assume it might be due to the same subject as previously. When I was cranking the engine there were a few things I spotted, but not sure if that is dues to the ecu being locked yet, so again if you could confirm that would be good. VVT inlet bank 1 signal was inactive (thought in the trigger scope I could see the signal); there was no fuel pressure (but the key on prime was there) I was not able to calibrate the VVT as there were no offset degrees displayed in the runtime values while cranking. Is this because of the ECU being locked or because the engine needs to run? I think that's it for now, but I'm sure there will more things. Thanks Béla

Thanks, but as I mentioned, the 06-07 model (cant speak for the rest) has 3 slots on the cams. So why for numbers? Maybe I don't understand something.

Yes. All set to Cosworth Specs. Not really as at the time of initial install I did not pay attention to the last sentence on the Cosworth spec sheet, and my mechanic didn't mention that either. Sorry Stevie, I am not sure what you mean. On a side note, I think I got the map on the G4+ to a state that is pretty good in idle and cruise, but just two days ago I sold it and now I am waiting on the G4X to be delivered. I am very exited about that.

Once I'll have the ECU (which I'm going to order hopefully today) and I do the calibration, I will come back with the offset values.

This doesn't bother me much, but thought mention. As per the help file, the tooth offset tables should not be visible if the the PID setting is default. Yet as you can see on the attached, they are. This is based on the V10 WRX base map. Oh and one thing that I think should be corrected in this base map is the number of teeth, as they were set to two, while the these cams physically have 3 slots.

Initial load of a map or loading the parameters pop-up for example in the tables' axis setup, or in a timeplot display to add parameters is extremely slow, but for me it is probably faster a bit then with the G4+ version.

https://shopbhp.com/collections/link-ecu-accessories/products/link-plugin-ecu-can-rs232-loom-connector-terminals

I am playing with the map changes right now. Went through quite a few changes yet and I think I am getting close to get a good stable idle and relatively close VE table in the cruise area. Here are two videos I shot just a couple of days ago. Can you guys check them out and let me know what you think? with silencer: https://1drv.ms/v/s!Ale4oyMCOgLThMczCcYOeg5Gg7Do5A without silencer: https://1drv.ms/v/s!Ale4oyMCOgLThMc0M8Zap8qNO7Wzzg With the silencer I can hear quite a bit of misfire. At least that is what I thought I hear, but recently I removed the silencer and without it is far not that obvious. So I am thinking about is that really a misfire or that is only a side-effect of the silencer??? I still want to do a tailpipe pressure/vacuum test with the Pico, but first I wanted to get the basics done on the map.

Sorry for bringing back some old topic, but that's actually what I am after, the ideal PID settings for 06+ STi e-throttle. It seems the values in the sample map is exactly the default number recommended in the help file but as I look through the properly detailed examples, they are (relatively) all over the place. The actual reason why I am looking for this information is because while idling, and the throttle target changing only 0.1%, the actual control overshoots significantly (0.5%+) which results in undesired fluctuation in idle. Any input is appreciated. Thanks

All I am saying, is that I am still using the AVCS gears on the intake, but the most retarded (or resting) postion of the intake gears are degreed what you can see on the pics before. The way they are adjusted is through the LIC eccentric idler pullies (see picture below). With these you can advance/retard the intake gears a couple of degrees. On the exhaust side, as you can see on the picture I am using adjustable cam gears, so those are straight forward.

Nope. The intake is still variable and these values are the most retarded rest position values. The exhaust is of course fixed as it is single avcs only.

Hey Everyone, Just thought to give you some update here. The engine is back together and the car is up and running again. as you can see on the pictures, the relative compression test is very nice and the measured compression in two opposite cylinders (#2, #3) are 9.2 bars which is not bad from a cold engine I think. As for the misfires, I am not sure yet as I am struggling to grab a good handle on the changes in the map, so as I work through those I will keep you posted and I am planning to do some tailpipe pressure/vacuum tests as well with the Pico. Old relative compression: New Relative compression: #3 cyl compression: #2 cyl compression: It's interesting see how much the volume of the flexi hose to the WPS effects the relative compression. you can clearly see that from the above two pictures. This is how I ended up timing the valves:

No, I don't have adjustable AVCS gears. I don't think something like that exists. What I have recently bought is a set of eccentric idler pullies which should be able to help me to adjust the tension in the belt such a way that I can eliminate the timing difference between the two sides. Yes, I have sent a message to Cosworth, but they did not reply yet and I think I don't think they will. Thanks. yes, the specs mention the valve lift in both metric and imperial, that is how I took the crank degree measurements above. FYI, I attach the camspecs.

Yes, the rest position is the most retarded position, but physically looking at the inside of the AVCS cam gears the most advanced position would be way over advanced compared to the cam spec sheet as the roughly 25 cam degree can be achived with the AVCS which results in double crank angle. So these spec sheets seem to me useless for AVCS gears. With that, All I will want to correct is the difference between the two sides and since the left side was higher in compression the the right, I will target adjust the right side. First I will obviously need to sort out the valve lashes. And as always, thanks for the reply.

Hey guys, Now that my Italy assignment has officially came to an end, I finally had the chance to pull the engine. Here are the valve lash values: (in mm) Cyl#1 Int Front 0.14 Rear 0.15 Ex Front 0.31 Rear 0.32 Cyl#2 Int Front 0.21 Rear 0.16 Ex Front 0.31 Rear 0.31 Cyl#3 Int Front 0.15 Rear 0.17 Ex Front 0.34 Rear 0.37 Cyl#4 Int Front 0.15 Rear 0.16 Ex Front 0.36 Rear 0.37 The Cosworth specs are the following: Int 0.008" = 0.2032mm Ex 0.01"= 0.254mm I am not sure tbh. Some of the exhaust are more then 0.1mm out and the intakes are also out almost 0.05mm. Do you think this qualifies for replacing the buckets? Also and other question, do you know if the Cosworth (or I guess any aftermarket) cam specs are for fully advanced or fully retarted state of the cams? I did some cam degreeing and the intakes are so much off of the Cosworth specs that I suspect those are for fully advanced state. Thanks

Thanks a lot guys! I am getting prepped for pulling the engine. I checked the bay the other day and while I could pull the covers for sure, it would be a pain in the back to do all checks. And I have ordered a few bits. Adjustable cam gears for the exhaust and LIC adjustable idlers for the intake. I just need to find the time to do it.