dx4picco

early AVCS engines (before 2006) are all 2 wire sensors, both for position and sync. only later they use 3 wire, and that make both of the funtions. you have two extra 2 wire sensors at the back of the cam used for AVCS position if you use ej207 avcs engine before that date then you can use cam and crank sensor wiring like it is, used for sync and add the AVCS stuff extra without messing with the other two

if you plumb the PCV like it was from factory all your oil will be in your intake / cylinder and not the sump! so oil starvation issue will not be solved

You may post the basemap you made so that we can look at it. having a triggerscope made and posted may help check the trigger parameters and knowing the injector size may be useful to have a the parameter in fuel setup correct.

U=RxI, dissipated power is UxI, so you get around 2W for 14V continuous. that 0.5W in't going to last.

look correctly: https://linkecu.com/wp-content/uploads/2020/07/ECUCatalogue.pdf "† Check specific pinout for number of I/Os exposed" the point of plugin ECU is also to have affordable ecu when the car doesn't need all the I/O, because the price of them is also related to that. for older cars with little I/o need, it would make no sens to only offer a version with all the I/O possible from processor, at double the cost of the actual product.

what is the sensor resistance at say, ambient 20°C?

Exactly, as soon as you get tinkery, you will run out of inputs very quickly! switches, sensors, potentiometers. Plan bigger ahead, unless you know you want your car done and nothing more in the future. if its a long term project, we all know how it spiral down!

Most likely yes. the only reason you would want to lean burn is for efficiency, so just changing lambda isn't the best way of doing. burning lean will change burn rate and MBT timing aswell. you will need to tune on steady state dyno to find that

from my experience you struggle having a stable combustion at light loads with lambda much higher than 1.1-1.15. Keep an eye on your EGTs aswell.

you are using GP pwm so the output signal will be on/off 15 times per seconds. maybe use regular GP output with same conditions? it will then be either on or off but it will not be pulsing

you could rather use a GP output function than the regular FAN bult in function. So you will be able to put your own parameter activating or deactivating the Fans. you must be very cautious when you have no temp automated fan triggers. I miss and that's engine overheating for you.

if you don't run anything that could help getting more air in (e-throttle or IACV) then what you could do is open more the throttle blade with idle screw and reduce significantly the timing at warm idle. like 15° less than what you currently have, and maybe still get 100rpm higher idle than before warm, but sustaining cold idle

wiring a switch to you dash, you could send a CAN DI to the ECU and use it for internal memory logging. However depending on the number of parameters logged (way less than PC log) you may run out of space pretty quick (less than 20 minutes) on the 4+ platform. the dash beeing strada, you don't have logger inside.

do you run the Voodoo ECU or just g4x ecu with g5 firmware?

you need to find the right balance between idle ignition P gain and throttle I gain. I had to reduce it alot aswell like you just said

ECU master EGT to can seems to be about the same price as the inovate analog one.

Maybe it would be more interesting to use a amplifier that uses CAN rather than analog values? It would avoid offset issues and doesn't clog up your wiring / I/Os

what info do you want to transmit from keypad to ecu?

I have set up the autoblip for the throttle during overrun downshift with a second e-throttle table for variable blip depending on gear and rpm. my downshift condition is both brake and clutch at the same time (set up in virtual aux). When brake is pressed first then clutch it works like it should. Some time it happends that the clutching in happends first then starting to release and comming on the brake then the blip happends at a time I would like to be none. In short, is there a way to activate that overrun downshift condition if brake and clutch pressed, ONLY if brake has been pressed first? I can't think about a way to do that with VA and math blocks

Having reduced the injector flow, the ecu think it is injecting less fuel. So for the same VE it is indeed richer. The following is that you need to reduce VE to come back to a leaner afraid. Where is you IAT sensor located?

CAN TC and CAN Freq could easily be used aswell. But heck, what would be the 31 analog sensors you would use to need all of that? !

according to my knowledge, people refer to 3 step as the two step fucntion to build boost for a launch from standing but with an extra twist. Instead of only having a fixed rpm under wich it will stay at all time, the 3 step will allow rpm to go over the asked launch rpm to help turbo spool faster, and then once we are closing in in target boost, the rpm is brought down to launch rpm.

What I did was to have the idle base table as a single row, depending on ECT, then put a Y axis with the like of a virtual aux that activated depending on your needs. for example speed like you want. an put 0s for example on that second line. I did that but on a switch that adds 30 steps on a stepper IACV to get it more shut and increased engine brake

do you have a log of that? to see when the different cuts interveine. to soften it : less start cut, and more range. not sure it will help the pushing through though