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ellisd1984

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Posts posted by ellisd1984

  3. Introducing RealDash - A Dashboard App for Android & Windows

    in G4+

    Posted

    Ok So I've figuerd out what the problem was, the CAN adaptor needed to have it baud rate adjusted (which you need additional software to do)

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/n40gjfcmp2w4or8/20200920_092910.mp4?dl=0

     

    Has anyone got the BOOST/MAP value to show anything?  mine just stays static.  Admittedly this was just free reving the engine as its currently still on axel stands.

    My next question is has anyone got a sensor that isn't in the "target identifiers" list to work?  I would like to show EGT but not sure how to yet

    https://realdash.net/manuals/targetid.php

  5. Introducing RealDash - A Dashboard App for Android & Windows

    in G4+

    Posted

    Ok, so I'm having a crack at this now and I'm afraid to say after i've read through all the posts I can't get real dash and my G4X to play nice.  Can someone have a look at my attached settings and let me know where I'm going wrong.

    pclink
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/4a4g2pltsvqexra/Screenshot 2020-09-18 at 12.59.56.png?dl=0
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/frkb559eput9qov/Screenshot 2020-09-18 at 12.59.40.png?dl=0

     

    RealDash

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/89klkszwey68n7g/20200918_130137.jpg?dl=0

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/cm08wflwosn5fe9/20200918_130128.jpg?dl=0

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/16jmua8gagwy3uh/20200918_130120.jpg?dl=0

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/rq82l3mej8157mm/20200918_130115.jpg?dl=0

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/kxurp7zm28503p4/20200918_130111.jpg?dl=0

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/39rtp8wxdq4jci6/20200918_130056.jpg?dl=0

    https://www.dropbox.com/s/eb2uunte24l10ll/20200918_130051.jpg?dl=0

    EDIT......

    I've found the problem, the can USB adaptor had a really high BAUD rate that I had to adjust by downloading software for it.  I've now got the Link and RealDash talking nicely now

     

  15. IAT -40

    in G4x

    Posted

    It will just narrow down where the fault is lying.  If it works on ana 3 then the fault lies on that input.  if the fault is the same on both then more likely to be a sensor/ ground wire issue.

     

  17. IAT -40

    in G4x

    Posted

    whats the sensor measuring in ohms?  what ecu are you running?  if its similar to the MR2/GT4 ecu analog temp 4 isn't actully availablie as an input despite it being displayed

     

  18. SW20 MR2 AC clutch control

    in G4+

    Posted

    I know this is an old thread but thought I should post my solution to this problem.  What I've noticed is the ECU doesn't have any control over the AC clutch, it just reacts to the AC amplifier activating the clutch.  This means if you've done away with the standard Idle up valve (as I have) the idle will stumble when the clutch comes in becase theres no delay between the AC request and the clutch being energised,  What I did was disconnected the ACT and MGC from the AC amplifier connector and wired them together.  This means the AC amplifier does it's thing but the Link actually activates the clutch and fans in reaction the the AC request.  Meaning you can program the required delay for the idle to adjust and stop it stumbling

    https://www.dropbox.com/preview/Screenshot 2020-08-08 at 14.52.31.png

  19. Idle actuator issue.

    in G4x

    Posted

    Is it a Celica GT4? if so check to see if the throttle body has a little actutar on it, sort of just begind the oil cap.  If so It keeps the throttle blade open on start up then closes when it see vacuum.  This causes the TPS to be out by 5% on the low end.  There's also a little bi-metalic spring in the idle control valve that holds the idle valve open untill the coolant temp gets warm.  If like me you've removed the coolant pipes going to the throttle body then this valve stops working properly and essentially  stays open partially.
     

     

  20. Idle Air valve bypasses IAT sensor

    in G4x

    Posted

    21 hours ago, Adamw said:

    Correct, crack the throttle open so the valve is down around 20% at normal warm idle and that should mean most of the air is going through the throttle.

    Hi Adam, thanks for the reply. I've been getting my head around CTE and its starting to sink in be there was an issue with the throttle. On the UK 205 GT Fours (not sure if its just on the UK models) there's a little actuator which keeps the throttle open a crack until engine startup. Once there's vacuum acting on this actuator it was essentially letting the throttle blade shut completely. This was causing the only path for the air at idle to go through the IAC valve. I've adjusted the throttle blade stop and adjusted the IAC duty cycle acordingly and it's working much better now. It's also addressed a dead spot in my TPS as the throttle plate was closing an extra 6% after the TPS was calibrated and the engine was running.

  22. Idle Air valve bypasses IAT sensor

    in G4x

    Posted

    Presumabley then it would mean if my IACV duty cycle is at 40% at warm idle there's nothing stopping me from adjusting the throttle blade open more and reducing the duty cycle at idle? 

    if I sit at idle with a heat socked engine the IAT sensors climbs really quickly but if I manually touch the throttle just a crack (less than 5%) the temps reduce significantly,  anything over 5% and there isn't an issue as enough air is passing by the sensor anyway.

    I'm going to have another crack at charge temp correction as well but it hard to tell well I should be adding/reducing fuel to the main fuel map or changing the CTC bias.  When tuning the idle area and biasing 100% to ECT I still had to add 20% fuel (idle area was previously tuned) to that area on the main fuel table to get me to lambda 1.

  23. Idle Air valve bypasses IAT sensor

    in G4x

    Posted

    I've got a celica ST205 which has the standard IAT sensor after the TB in the inlet manifold.  The sensor is slow and heat soaks really bad and will pretty much just sit at 40 ded C so is pretty useless.

    To  fix that I installed one of the link/Bosch open element sensor just before the TB which works much better apart from at Idle with the TB closed the air for the engine it fed from a separate pipe from essentially where the air filter is and bypasses the charge pipework & IAT sensor completly.  I've tried a couple of times to switch Charge Temp Correction on as it sounded like that was designed for exactly this problem but I couldn't get it to work at all so If someone else has had this issue how are you all getting around it?

    Thanks David

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