KennyJ

has this trigger pattern ever been implemented? i've got a clio 2 in for a new ecu

its very likely a bunch of issues , the 12.6 afr might be a dead time issue , or a bad synct trigger causing you to have very high advance on idle , which causes misfires, which you solve by going extremely rich check the mechanic side of things , do a smoke test on the intake etc , sync your timing , verify all data in the ecu , its all fixable , dont just throw parts at it and about the injectors , most factory subaru's have pressure leaks around the injectors when there is no fuel pressure pushing the injectors down

log the system voltage and the dwell time , should become obvious very fast if it does. practically i would assume there's a bad ground on the engine causing the ecu voltage to read lower do some basic voltage drops test on powers and ground while the engine is running (and even out the dwell table temporarely to stop your coils from melting)

hall or reluctor ? sound like something is overheating indeed , check in the F12 menu at the trigger tab if you still get a correct sig , only thing i've ever seen act up where some spark related components so it would check if you're still getting correct trigger sig when its not starting if its spark related i would start by checking dwell times

confirm your cas is inserted correct into the slot , they can be teeth off. also i've had cars in the past which did run on stock ecu and didnt run on a Link due to the signal of the cas being sloppy. Replacing the cas is an option , replacing the disc in the cas also works but thats more of a bandaid

sync timing with a timing light most times its about -100°

What CO value are you required to get ? you should target lambda 1 on idle for emissions if i target lambda 1.05 i even pass emissions here without a cat in the exhaust

yes when you're opening the throttle tps is no longer 0% and dependent on what you have setup it will go into "driving" (thats why i used the idle ignition to tamper it down) you may find the car feels like the throttle is stuck when driving , some really low numbers in vacuum will solve that please note i'm doing competition rally cars , not street cars

whats the ign timing on idle ? if its heavily advanced you get misfires

whats the point of the setup with the screw? i mostly set up cars with manual throttle bodys and i always crack open the throttle a bit with the factory bolt (rpm on idle +-4000 rpm) reset tps 0-100 point activate ignition idle map with value somewhere between -5° and -25° so idle is at 1200-1300 rpm and go from there that way there plenty of fresh air to make the AL agressive enough AL activates with rpm and Tps % and a DI , that way you dont have to alter anything under the bonnet and the car drives nice

The random fire happened again yesterday turned the key on , heard a pop under the bonnet , went to start the engine , ran on 5 cilinder for few seconds then went back to 6 in a few seconds i assume fired with exhaust valve open causing a lifter to extend ? its was low on compression on a cilinder when cranking too

some of the latest generation nissan S-chassis have a battery fed ac compressor relay , they sometimes back feed the ecu , changing that pin to a spare injector aux fixes that

I got asked the wire up a 350z car with the newer 370z engine. is this possible ? i have no experience with the platform but i spotted 2 dbw throttles so that the first issue any input welcome as is advise. plugin would be handy , stock wiring looks fine wire-in is fine if needed

Hi, issue 1: -i got a RB25det with a N300x plugin ecu. sometimes when i do a key on it just fires one coil. i was working on the engine last week , had the intake pipe off. turned the key on , heard a pop and saw my turbo spinning. Havent been able to recreate when i want to but it sometimes does. issue 2: -some months ago when i was setting it up i turned the coils a few times on and of eacht time with a ctrlS - keyoff-keyon and then i even heard pops in the intake , i havent tried it cause i dont want to pop a gasket out but that one is definitly recreatable

i undertand but i had a lot of rpm points with extreme different ign angles so that impossible te recreate with the current way also my seconds axis was ECT to alter the idle point and thus the ign angle and yes i do know i can setup idle setpoint now but it just doesnt work the same

i got great results on G4+ equipped engines who had extreme cams , for street use a steady idle is absolutely required and i got that with G4+ way of idle control i've tried and tried with G4X pid idle ignition and it just doesnt get there as steady as i could setup the manual table in the G4+ could a choice of how to control be available ? i really miss my idle table

i've had this on a lot of cars , with wire-ins and plug-ins allways on G4X i always update to the latest firmware i've had it occur when there was no laptop connected 100% sure last time was last week , killed the engine in traffic with a strong clutch, did a restart and the starter just spun the engine , no sign of life did another restart and fired right up i must say i've tried to recreate it and was unable to , they just randomly do it still havent got a customer complain but i'm quite sure they will be furious when they lose their precious 5 seconds on the rally stage

i've had this a few times , aem cas disc 100% fixes this be carefull , sr20 rockers take every chance to go flying

i'll try it out , i have a can sniffer , plus it has a screen with the lambda value on there so i can compare

i've seen the e-mails that been sent back and forth , i ordered one as i needed a new controller anyway i'll try to set it up once it arrives

https://www.kperformance.be/Component/CANbus-TinyO2 this, i assume its a copy of something from a bigger brand but not familiar with the kdfi/megasquirt kind of ecu's

is this possible to setup ? only familiar with Link can widebands seller of the can wideband says its universal if so is there a writeup somewhere ? i would use it as a tuning device , not permanently wired in

did you sync timing with a timing gun ?

Have you synct timing ? if it runs on the basemap i would assume it just need a decent tune

as a little question here : would it be better in this kind of situation do have a big or small opening of the idle valve ?