Simon

It is worth a try. It can often be hard to keep both systems happy when sharing signals. A scope image at the point a trigger error occurs would help alot but is not an easy thing to get.

Are you able to attach or email the MAP as you have it set up. We don't know of any issues around this but will try on the bench to see if we can spot what is the cause.

Yep you can do this. It might not read at very low speeds but once speed picks up will be fine. The main thing to watch is the digital inputs will only work up to 500Hz so if you are using an ABS pick up with lots of teeth you might find the frequency gets too high for the input.

Hi Daniel It is looking like a firmware issue. The closed loop is using the lambda average this is not reading correctly it is stuck on lambda 1. Will pass on to engineering to add to the needing a fix list.

The volt channel will need to be set to a GP input. You can then log the raw voltage.

You will need to change the error values on AN volt 3 to have the error low value set to 0V Once this is done you can then clear the errors.

If they use a 0-5V out you can connect to a AN volt input and log this input.

You will need a wideband controller to input O2. THe ECU is not geared to accept the signal directly from a wideband sensor.

If running wideband it is common as a lot of controllers will read ground when the engine is not running. You will need to set you error low value to 0V for the AN Volt input.

Hi Jim Suggest having a chat to the guys at Green Brothers in Tauranga http://greenbrothers.co.nz/

The manual was written aroung the use of a hand held tuning module. If you are using PC link look to see if you are getting an engine RPM. And make sure you are keeping connection while cranking.

It will be in the trigger menu. Are you sure its a G2 not a G1? Do you have a 9pin serial connector on the back of the ECU? Not a 14pin rectangular one?

Hi Jeff I would be confirming that you are not in fact seeing knock. There is some chance that it is driveline noise. If this is the case it could be very hard to eliminate this with out adversely effecting the units ability to detect true knock. Â

A thermo couple will need an amplifier to bring the signal up to a 0-5V input.

In this case you want to avoid the sync edge changing close to the gap. In the scope shot you are well clear. Im assuming you are using CAM level for the sync mode.

You can connect to the factory O2 input but it can only accept a simulated narrowband signal (0-1V) The ECU is not able to process a wideband 0-5V signal

G1 LEM, Firmware is unknown as the sticker has come off the micro. Likely to be around V3 age. It is geared for a pre 2000 Subaru engine

Should be fine assuming it has been tuned using MGP for the main table.

Should be no reason you can not change the tooth count, Make sure you hit the Enter key after typing in the number. Yes you can power both sensors of the one wire.

You will have a firing order of 1324 the sync will be between cylinders 4 and 1 If you select the Subaru trigger mode the timing should be close (+/- 3deg)

Its all done in the same process.

6 is the max no current plans to add any more

Have you tried changing the polarity?

You could use a GP limit table to limit if the AFR goes too lean. The GP limits have a delay as part of the settings. Yes the LC2 and LC1 calibrations match.

Correct you will need an external controller like a Innovate LC1 or NGK AFX.