Simon

Hi This happens to be in the pipe line. A future firmware will fix this. I will see about adding the options of idle and WG trims based on baro.

The G4+ Atom will be the starting unit to look at. Price wise a local dealer will be the best point of contact.

If its just in the set up stage you can set the fuel mode to off. Crank the engine to clear it and then turn the fuel back on. This is only really an option when you have the PC connected.

Have you check the cam offset figure buy using the cam test function. If the offset is incorrect you will see this sort of error. The help file explains how to do the cam test.

Yes you will need to have 3 teeth removed from the distributor.

Hi Dana Your were still set up as a guest user so did not have access. I have now checked your serial number and have upgraded you to full access.

You will need to set up dual throttle target tables. The 2nd table is then activated when anti lag is activated. On this table the opening at idle will be bigger than on the main table.

Each ECU is coded to what type it is, the firmware is identical between the two. The Vi-pec options do have the addition of peak and hold injection drives (different hardware)

The turbo link is geared to only retard timing and control extra injectors. It was mainly put to use on Hondas and MX5's that had been turboed and retained the factory ECU. Support wise very limited, as parts are sometime unavailable. Only place to find a hand control will be second hand as we stop producing them more than 5 years ago.Â

Looking at that map you have you sync mode set to crank x1 this should be cam x1

Yep no doubt about that it is very much in the list of functions to add.

ECU will be fine with the hall sensor inputs, But you will need to have the pullups turned on. Also be sure to check the offsets for each cam using the cam test function.

Most ABS sensor will be reluctor type (2 wire) and as such are just a ground and signal with no power supply.

Once that form is filled in you can send whenever you wish.

It is PC tunable and the default tune will be geared for a stock WRX.

Oxy heater is for controlling a ground to the heater on the factory sensor. In this case you could use it to control the power supply to the MTX so that the MTX only powers up when the engine is running. You will need to configure it as a GP output. For the MTX output you will want to connect this to the AN volt 1 input.

In the ECU configuration you will have the option of having over run fuel cut turned on or off. If you wish to keep fuel going through the engine set this setting to off. Then is you increase the numbers in the overrun area of the map you will get more fuel through.

You might have the jumpers incorrect on the bottom board. Set them up to be in the 94-02 positions This will have aux 1 on pin 9. With the jumper in the 91-93 position Aux 1 is connected to pin 25

Yep once you have the serial number flick me a PM and ill sort out full access for you.

Yes that would be worth a shot. You might find if the stepper is mostly operating close to fully open that the butterfly stop needs to be changed to keep the butterfly open more. If you do this make sure to reset the TPS.

Send it in to us direct Electronz Ltd 22 Mowbray St Waltham 8023 Christchurch New Zealand. Please fill in the following form before return. https://docs.google.com/spreadsheet/viewform?usp=drive_web&formkey=dHQ3YVVvYkdaWUVqTmgwSXQyMjE2YlE6MQ#gid=0

You can use the timer function but I suspect it likely it will not be needed. Ideally you need the engine to cut a fraction before the change so it can unload the current gear to make disengagement easier.

Main issue is this changes form firmware to firmware version. And its not really something we want to let out.

No as it would require different hardware to allow for the Volvo triggers.

We could do a repair here and replace just the damaged bits. Which wouldn't be as bad as a total replacement.