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rrob

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rrob last won the day on January 17

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  1. Quick and dirty way of doing it is marking the cam and pointing the timing all through the oil cap. Obviously mark the cam at tdc compression stroke.
  2. Is your car 4wd? You will need to do some additional wiring to get a tps signal to the 4wd controller if so.
  3. Can you trying turning the tacho output off to see if the noise stops?
  4. Are you running s15(these are internal ignitor) coils in a s13 chassis? It looks like a Splitfire kit. You can bypass the factory ignitor(the one on the inner fender) and the Splitfire box and wire the coils directly to the ecu outputs with nothing in between.
  5. What is the in the "pre crank prime" settings?
  6. Im doing similar to a SBF at the moment. I went with the Holley dual sync distributor and a set of ls coils, this allows full sequential ignition and injection.
  7. Most likely valve float and the delay is the lifter bleeding down. That's if it's not an ECU setting.
  8. rrob

    Thunder wheel sensor

    Early R/S chassis rear wheel speed sensors bolt into the Z diff and work directly. I don't have a solution for the front though.
  9. Most piston engines seem to like 360-420 around idle, I ramp it up with engine speed also.
  10. R33 gts-t have a 2 speed fuel pump controller. You should be able to test the speed output with a multimeter, back probed the fuel pump wires on the tank lid. From memory its 9-10v on low speed and 12-13v on hi.
  11. Temp sensors need 0v/sensor ground not 5v.
  12. rrob

    Iat Inquiry

    I'd be looking into the injector dead times.
  13. Grab a set of r35 coils and bolt them in with a spacer and a longer bolt. Wiring is the same connector and pinout.
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