Adamw

So you are using multi-tooth/missing trigger mode? Since you have 4 cam teeth you cant use "cam pulse 1x" sync mode, Trigger 2 sync mode should be set to Cam Level, if it doesnt start with that set then your offset is wrong and you are sparking on exhaust stroke. Try the offset at 235 in that case.

AN Temp inputs can only have temp functions assigned in G4+.

Your cal table for the temp sensor only spans from 40 to 170°F, 170°F is about 77°C. In fact with only two data points I doubt it shows correct temp at all, a temp sensor wouldnt usually be linear. What sensor do you have? Your temp sensor calibration will need to span the range of normal operating temperature.

%AppData% takes you to your personal appdata directory, every user on the PC has one, and this is where the roaming\PC Link directory should be. If using the %AppData% shortcut doesnt take you to the roaming folder with the PC Link options and parameters cfg then it would suggest you are logged in with a different user account than what was in use when PC Link was installed. I suspect this will cause issues such as your PC Link options and settings wont be saved.

I was just replying at the same time as Vaughan, will leave it here as a bit of extra info. First lets confirm it is working. If it was showing zero that suggests it is in error or the engine was off. With the engine running, hit F12 or R to open the runtimes screen, use left or right arrow to move to the ecu status tab and here you can see lambda 1 status, errors, temp and measured lambda similar to below. To change units you just hit the "U" key on your keyboard. If you are not using an english keyboard then there will be an equivalent key, but the other way to get there is to go via the menu bar >options>units>options

With the ignition test set to "Ignition 1", the ecu is firing the output that is labelled Ign 1 in our pinouts. Test "Ignition 2" fires "Ign 2" pin. And those outputs should also be wired to the same cylinder number - So testing "Ignition 1" should give a spark on Cyl 1 coil, test Ignition 2 should spark at cyl 2 coil.

Is the other sensor removed/unplugged? From memory the grounds are shared in the stock wiring so if you are using any of the original wiring you may have ended up with the two sensors wired in series. Otherwise the only way two pulses could be generated is with two teeth or one long tooth on the cam wheel.

Something is wrong with your cam wheel or cam sensor wiring. You are getting 1 pulse every 12crank teeth instead of one every 24T. And their shape is distorted also, one goes negative first, the other goes positive? Like it has a big long half moon tooth or something? Or do you have both cam sensors connected somehow maybe?

The VVT has nothing to do with starting the engine. What trigger mode are you using? What is the offset set to currently?

It sounds more like a windows permissions problem or something. Do you have PC Link installed in the default C:\Link G4X\PCLink G4X? Is it a native windows PC, not a mac running a VM or something? What version of windows?

Im not sure how to make it any clearer than that. If your offset is -180 and the coils are wired correctly then the missing teeth are passing the sensor 180° before TDC #1.

The lambda was working when you last saved your map. It will only give a reading when the engine is running. You can look at the runtime "Lambda 1 status" to see what it is doing. You can display in AFR or lambda. U key is the shortcut to change units. It is already set up correctly in the map you attached earlier. If it is not working then there is either a wiring issue or the gauge is not configured correctly.

It looks like the hood just latches in with some barbs at the wire end. I would expect it will pry off without much effort.

You might have to describe that in a bit more detail, I dont understand what you are wanting to do. You can stack as many GP PWM tables as you like - put the output of one on the axis of the next etc. Note however, I believe you really need closed loop current control rather than just a duty cycle for consistent diff control on a subaru. Im not sure if the factory controller uses closed loop current, but certainly the Motec, gems and cosworth ones did.

Yes the haltech GPS speed sensor will work provided you have acceptable GPS reception where you want to use it and enough time to acquire the signal before needing it. The only thing to be aware of is your speed will be zero anytime there is no GPS reception so you will be stuck in low boost mode.

The voltage rating on a capacitor is just the max value that it should be exposed to, 25 or 35V are common.

Looks pretty close to 6300RPM just a touch before that to me. With advanced mode off, the default limit control range is 200RPM, this means the limiter will start fading in 200RPM below your set limit (ie 6300RPM). When the RPM drops below your limit the cut percentage is removed at the exit decay rate - which is 5%/20ms in default mode. The ignition trim will be active the whole time the limiter is active. The point where your cursor is on the time plot with the RPM at 6087, the limiter is still active because it is being decayed.

In your first post you said the gauge is connected to CAN1/RS232, but in your map "transmit generic dash" is set up on CAN 2. Your most recent screenshot shows the lambda detected on CAN 1, and it is working in your map, so I assume that first statement is wrong? Can you confirm that the gauge is connected to CAN 2. And it is only the gauge that is not working right? The lambda appears to be working in your map.

The Dash2pro stream transmits "Driving wheel speed", so make sure that is assigned in the ecu and showing correct speed. At the realdash end if using my .XML that should be received as >Engine/ECU Inputs> VSS1

With a missing tooth wheel the ecu just checks if it "saw" a cam pulse in the last crank rev or not, it doesnt matter where it occurred. If you pull number 1 plug out and poke a screwdriver or similar down the plug hole then turn it over until the screwdriver reaches TDC, are your missing teeth under the sensor at that point? Have you fitted an ignitor or changed to smart coils?

There is currently no "virtual digital input", its been on the wish list for a while. Last time we discussed it there were thought to be significant difficulties in implementing it - one of them I remember was there are very few shortcut keys left so PC Link would need a significant rework to have assignable shortcuts. Your Space bar suggestion is already hard coded as "jump to active cell" for example. We talked about other options like onscreen buttons etc but I think the consensus was it really needed a future version of PC Link. The closest you could do at present is set up a DI, have its settings panel pinned/locked on every page and change the active state setting when you need to activate it, but I can appreciate that would not always be easy in a panic situation.

If the missing tooth area is under the sensor with cyl 1 at TDC then the offset should be near 0, +360 or -360. -180 would suggest the coils are wired wrong or your TDC mark is not TDC. The cam sensor is only used for phase detection so can only change the offset by 360.

Need a copy of your tune. And your scopes look like you clicked capture when the engine wasn't cranking. You need to click capture when the engine is cranking. Fuel pressure and ECT are still both not working.

Link DASH2PRO.dbc

The IDM-2 appears to be very similar to the Bosch HPI5 or perhaps delphi licenced some of the design at the time. If you have one off an OEM application then it likely wont be configurable and the CAN will be specific to the application it came from. It will only be suitable for the specific injector and pump it was configured to drive originally (not even sure if it has a pump output but HDI5 does). The OEM versions of the HPI5 are not user-configurable, they have the configuration stored internally so still work without CAN. Whereas the motorsport/universal version of the HDI5 needs the current and voltage settings sent to the box via CAN everytime you power it up. Unless you are using this box on the engine it was specifically designed for, or you can find much more complete documentation, then in my opinion it would be a big can of worms that I would be too much risk for the time involved. You wont learn of its limitations due to voltage/current settings, max RPM, or max duty cycle etc until you are a long way down the path, after already investing a lot of time and money wiring, reverse engineering and testing. These limitations usually only become apparent near full load, high rail pressure or high RPM. The HPI5 can only do a max of 7000RPM if you are using all outputs for example.