[Traction control issue set up]

I just took a quick look over purely your TC settings. RPM lockout, TP low lockout and Speed lockout don't appear to be sensible values to me.  I have never set up TC with a G4+ before so I'm stabbing in the dark a little but I would suggest starting with values around 2000RPM, 30%TP & 30Kph and tune from there.

Edit: sorry Scott, I see you must have posted as I was typing mine...

[Link G4+ Atom Vauxhall C20xe trigger problems]

Here's how I would attack this; I would set Trig 2 to "none".  Set Fuel mode to "multipoint group".  Set Ign mode to "wasted".  Then at least that narrows down your diagnostics to only one of the triggers.

If you then still don't see RPM, then try swapping polarity on the VR sensor.  If it still wont register RPM after these steps then you are probably going to have to get a scope on the crank trigger to see why it doesn't like it.

PS. also check ECU hold power is not active.

[Evo 8 knock control]

I believe Evo 6 & later should be 13KHz narrow.  Right now you have your ECU looking at 6KHz, from a sensor that only ouputs around 13KHz.

[knock detection device]

Skiza,

I have a couple of cheaper devices you might be interested in.  I have an old "The Knock Box" dual channel system.  It's probably 15years old or more but it is still a very good device.  I bought it direct from the manufacturer about 10 years ago as an ex-demo and they told me at that time that their current one still has all the same internals, just a different enclosure and connectors.  This is still very good and my go-to tool but I want to upgrade to something that has an analog output that I can play with on my dyno.  They don't have adjustable filters etc like some more modern stuff but I have never had any issue clearly detecting knock with it.  I would want about 350NZD for this one with the aviation headphones, two knock sensors etc.   New they are 900AUD.

I also have the first gen Link Knockblock - again dual channel and it has adjustable frequency filters.  It came in a box of misc dyno parts I bought years ago, it appears unused but I have never tried it to tell you how good it is at detecting knock.  100NZD for this one.  It has two knock sensors but no head phones included (has 3.5mm audio jack from memory).   

I have used a Phormula before (note sure which model but the audio one) and I didn't find it much good.  Certainly not as clear as my old knock box that I was used to anyhow, it didn't seem to have much, if any filtering.

PM me if you want to know more.

[Methanol Injection Flow Safety]

 

I believe Blaine is talking about a water/methanol injection kit, like the AEM one. I saw a webinar the other day where the AEM controller has a setup like Blaine described. It basically means if you run out of water/meth mix or have a pump or plumbing issue the ECU would be able to reduce boost to protect the engine from detonation.

Oh yeah, reading it again you are probably right.  You are obviously a better mind reader than me...

[Thunder 12 Fuel]

Not an easy one to add to the thunder in its current format.

But will be a consideration for future development.

Since a 12 injector ecu may never be a big enough mover to justify a new hardware platform, another option might be firmware/software based solution that allows 2 ecus to be linked together in a master/slave configuration.  2 x Storms linked together would be a relatively cost effective option for those that need 16cyl sequential?

[Methanol Injection Flow Safety]

I'm curious to hear what the logic is behind this request?  I only have involvement with a couple of high powered methanol drag cars so don't have a large pool of experience to draw from but why would you expect a methanol fuel system to be any less reliable than a petrol system?  Maybe the mechanical pump?  If that is the case why not just use differential fuel pressure as a GP limit?  Fuel flow sensors are relatively expensive and I think it is a variable that would be pretty difficult to nail down tight enough to make it useful as an effective safety. i.e, functions like RPM limit, gear cut, warm up corrections etc are all going to throw many more dimensions into the equation on what you need to consider to arrive at expected fuel flow.

I would have thought Lambda and dif fuel pressure would have been a better way to monitor the fuel system  (although in my experience Lambda based safetys aren't particularly useful either it would be more consistent than fuel flow).

[Evo 4-8 Direct Spark Issue]

I suspect you are 360° out.  Try adding 360 to your trigger offset.

[2 wire Idle Control Solenoid (Bosch) - no settings in PCLink?]

I think the "stepper motor type" setting is meant to hide when an aux is assigned as ISC solenoid so maybe you have found a small bug.  It seems to hide ok for me.  In any case I think you can just ignore that setting and everything will still work fine.

[2 wire Idle Control Solenoid (Bosch) - no settings in PCLink?]

Not sure how you missed the wiring:

Set your aux output to ISC solenoid and select a suitable frequency.  Most of the settings under Idle speed control apply to both stepper or solenoid types. 

[No trigger scope reading but RPM and no trig errors?]

Sounds like ECU hold power or maybe the anti-theft function.  Check no digital inputs are assigned to anitheft and read help about ecu hold power function so you can make sure that is set up right.

Edit: Actually just noticed in your screen shots above ECU hold power is active so that your problem.

[Timing wont follow ignition map]

If your trigger systems uses a vr sensor I would say most likey your vr sensor is wired back-to-front. 

[Thunder onboard logging, channels]

Using an external logger could certainly be done currently.

The internal logging however is not so easy.

I'm not sure if Dave is hinting that something similar to what I am suggesting is coming but at present most "external loggers" that are available cost nearly as much as the ecu itself (or more) and then you must use some 3rd party logging software.

What I'm talking about a very low cost external logger who's log files open natively in the PC Link application.  You then have something that is accessible to most users and you can continue to use the PC link tuning functionality such as the mixture map etc just like it was an "internal log".  I'm sure something like this would even be a big bonus to your Atom customers.

[Thunder onboard logging, channels]

Another ECU brand that I sometimes use allows you to use a $USD59 serial recorder for increased logging: https://www.keelog.com/serial_recorder/.  I think some of the link data streams have about 70 channels so that would certainly be much better than the present 25, there may even be room in that datastream to squeeze in more channels... 

I don't see why Link couldn't implement something like this reasonably easily?  It would only need a small change to the logging part of the software to allow reading/conversion of the raw serial log.

[Fury internal lambda inaccurate reading]

I agree with you then warmup, this can't be blamed on "wiring" when all three are standalone devices with "integrated" displays - there is no way wiring can influence any of these displayed readings.  Since it does appear to be more of an offset type error rather than a multiplier error then I still think it would be worthwhile doing the inert gas test I mentioned earlier as that at least confirms the "zero" point. 

So you now have an interesting situation - which one do you trust??  After my personal experiences with innovate over the years I would tend to trust the fury more, but that's just my gut feeling...

[Fury internal lambda inaccurate reading]

I maybe stating the obvious, but have you checked all devices are set to convert to AFR using the same stoichiometric ratio (14.7)? I think the AEM might not be adjustable but G4 and LM2 certainly are.  It might be a good idea to set all to display lambda units to eliminate that possibility.  If you have nitrogen or argon (welding gas) handy you can also use that to test all devices read same at lambda = 1.  Most devices use 14.7 by default but there are some exceptions that I've come across such as the NGK afx for instance uses 14.56.

I have heard reports that the AEM reads a little rich on the rich side of stoich but have never had a known reference to test against.

[4age link g4+ trigger no signal]

You will need to grind 3 of the teeth off the top trigger just leaving one tooth. Change your sync mode to cam pulse 1x.

[G4+ WRX Link V1-2: Anti-lag & Launch Control]

The other side of your enable switches can either go to ground (chassis or sensor gnd is fine) or to 12v.  I wouldn't use 5V since it maybe a bit close to the switching threshold.  Generally chassis ground is the easiest since you have lots of ground places to connect to behind the dashboard.

For the DI settings, set the function to GP input.  If your switch is connected to ground then turn the "pull-up" on and set the "on level" to low.  If you choose to connect your enable switch to 12V instead then turn the pull-up off and set on level to high. 

[G4+ Atom running dual ignition trigger]

Jesse,

I'm pretty sure the G4/G4+ cant use the EDIS system at all.  It can however still work with the 36-1 wheel but the sensor would need to be wired directly to the ECU rather than through the EDIS.  The cam sensor will only be usable if it has a single tooth per cam rotation.  You could use some other 2 channel ignitor such as a Bosch "200" to make use of the EDIS coils or alternatively you could change to 2 or 4 coils with built in ignitors.

[G4+ Atom, Throttle position sensor interference]

None of your symptoms hint at a noise issue to me - it very much sounds more likely a wiring issue.  Like maybe something is pulling down the 5v supply?  Do the MAP, water & air temp sensors give correct readings at the same time that the TPS is not?   If you hit F12 to bring up the runtimes screen have a look at the analog tab to see if anything looks odd there and also the ECU status tab to check the 5v out.

[Hall effect cam sensor]

Probably if you can set it up so that your sync pulse is nowhere near your missing tooth it may work.  I have only been asked to tune a couple of aftermarket ECU's that used the map type sync and neither of them would stay synced for long (not links).  I definitely can confirm however that the link will stay 720 synced when using a missing tooth crank if you completely remove the cam pulse while running - I'm just not sure if it will be happy if the cam pulse is still connected and drifting around a lot.

For the other bike engines you mentioned I suspect they would use the map sensor method as that seems common on bikes.  It works fine with OEM's however because they design their whole trigger logic to work with the variable map pulse location.  Aftermarket ECU trigger logic needs to be much more generic as they have to work with a huge range of trigger types so they will never be as robust when it comes to rejecting errors from these odd sync types.

Here's a bit of useless info for you just since you seem interested in odd sync strategies... The Zytek ECU's used in F1 & touring cars in 80's & 90's were sequential without any cam sensor (from memory they didn't even have a missing tooth crank wheel).  They would just try firing on the first TDC event that it saw, if it didn't start after about 5 seconds then it would switch to the next TDC and would continue doing that until the engine started.  Once it saw the RPM increase above cranking speed it would lock to the correct TDC just by counting teeth. 

[Hall effect cam sensor]

John,

While I agree with Simon that many OEM's sucessfully use the map sensor sync strategy, in my experience it is a lot less successful in the aftermarket world.  I think the issue you will find is that the 'location' of the sync pulse (in reference to TDC) will vary/drift significantly depending on things like cranking speed, air density etc.  If it only moves within a small window of degrees and you can get it always happen between the same two teeth on the crank wheel then you should be golden and it will work fine, if however this sync pulse drifts so that its crosses over a crank tooth or even just happens too closely to a crank tooth pulse then you will start to see trigger errors and odd timing events.

Personally I would be looking much harder at a more traditional cam sensor if you want something that will work easily from day 1 and continue to be reliable.  There are many ways to do it, my first choice is always a sensor pointing at either a bolt or hole or notch on the cam drive sprocket, but I have even done things like poke a sensor through a hole in the rocker cover and have it see a cam lobe/rocker arm/bolt/lug/notch etc. The old 1GT101DC is a really good sensor for this type of thing because they trigger off almost anything ferrous and over quite big gaps - it seems to be reliable even when fitted inside the engine.

[Scaling a Boost Gauge into Link Plug In]

Are you sure it's 'maxing out at 180Kpa?  On that screen shot you only have 55% throttle also so boost reached will be limited by that.  If you can post your actual log and cal file then someone may be able to confirm if there is any issue.

[AEM 3.5 BAR MAP Sensor Info]

Yes that is correct.

[Scaling a Boost Gauge into Link Plug In]

Weldon,

Can you explain better what you want to achieve?  You already have a MAP sensor connected to the ECU that can be set up to log 'boost' so why do you want to connect a separate to boost pressure gauge/sensor?