Adamw
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Posts posted by Adamw
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Are there any options for CAN wideband sensors with the G4+
Yes, There are some CAN receive templates in pclink already for some of the common ones; Motec LTC, Ecotrons, AEM X Series. The CAN configuration is flexible enough to allow you to receive any CAN wideband stream that I know of if you have your eyes on some other brand.
Also Link have their own CAN Lambda controller coming out soon if you are not in a hurry.
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Yes go online and it should work. I haven't done it myself recently but it used to always work that way.
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Yes you don't need the 12v or the idle switch, all you want is a single 0-5v signal.
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Yes you absolutely cannot directly drive a dumb coil with a G4+. You will need a 2 channel ignitor such as a "Bosch 200". You may have damaged the ecu now but hopefully not.
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What are you using for an ignitor?
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Two-stroke
in G4+
Yes, you should download the software and have a play if you haven't done so already:
I know it should work fine if your engine is a standard even 120° firing angle, however if you have one of those odd engines where one piston comes up as two go down you might have to get creative with the configuration and wiring.
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Good to hear. Now that raises the question if the tuner tuned the ignition map to MBT with the trigger connected back to front with lots of scatter and drift then your ignition map is probably not great. Depending on what fuel you are using I suspect your engine shouldn't be knock limited so its probably not high risk but I would certainly load that engine with caution until you are happy there is no knock.
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I found some info using web.archive.org: http://web.archive.org/web/20080929062209/http://www.linkecu.com/products/AncillaryDevices/TurboLink
Here's a manual: http://web.archive.org/web/20081016031706/http://www.linkecu.com/products/AncillaryDevices/TurboLinkManual
Basically an early piggyback type ecu, mostly aimed at those that added a turbo to an originally injected but NA engine. It can add fuel via auxiliary injectors, retard timing by intercepting trigger - both mapped in basic 3D tables, and I think it had closed loop waste gate control also.
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Would the car run fine with the crank sensor wired the wrong way around because apart from the starting issue it runs really well and makes good power.
Oddly enough they will still often run reasonable with the polarity reversed, although usually with more obvious symptoms than yours is seemingly exhibiting. In theory you would think if you trigger off the wrong edge of a missing tooth waveform the ecu should see extra teeth and not run at all but I assume there must be some error logic built in somewhere that resets the tooth count every cycle and allows it to continue to run. I have had numerous cars "driven" to me for tuning and have found them running with wrong sensor polarity or trigger edge.
Im still not saying this is definitely your problem, just one thing you can easily try to eliminate it from the troubleshooting.
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Run the trigger scope to check the crank signal. It could the the polarity is wrong
Unfortunately this is an Atom so he doesnt have the scope function.
I just put a timing light on it and when cranking the timing is all over the place. What causes this scatter? I think your on to something. Cheers
That indicates a trigger problem. Since most of your trigger system is relatively "fixed" and OEM quality I think the most likely problem is the polarity of your crank sensor is wrong. Ideally you would get a standalone scope on to it to check but if one is not easily accessible then I would probably just try swapping the wires over and see if it improves the scatter. You will need to do your trigger offset calibration again after swapping polarity.
I have done a hot compression test and it resulted in 130psi across all 4 which I put down to valve overlap from the cams so this has eliminated to much cranking compression.
Something seems wrong here to me too. Even with very big cams I would expect ~200psi. It may indicate you have a cam timing issue also.
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Im still pretty confident it is just something with your setup that has been over looked, an engine like this shouldn't be difficult to start. A few suggestions or thoughts from me...
They have no timing marks from factory so all I have is a TDC mark on the pulley to work off.
So how did you calibrate the base timing? Does it run ok locked to zero degrees or did you use a dial back light?
I would still be getting a timing light on it during cranking to ensure you don't have major scatter. Even if you have to paint a temporary mark on the pulley for reference - it doesn't need to be accurate just something to prove timing is not jumping around.
Have you scoped the trigger to ensure the polarity is correct? 36-1 inductive will often still start/run either way but with errors and drift if connected wrong.
Could you do a compression test? Warm engine, plugs out, wide open throttle. I know you have said 12:1 static but perhaps dynamic compression might be extraordinary for some reason - cam timing etc.
Finally could you post a PC log (started before cranking and with all parameters included) of a good start and one of a bad start?
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James,
Have you ever actually put a timing light on the engine during cranking to check the timing is steady and as commanded? I wouldnt expect any kick back issues in a modern 4 valve pentroof engine like this. Does yours have the 36-1 trigger? Are the missing teeth away from TDC? Is cranking RPM normal? I recently tuned a high comp, low inertia, NA zetec in a sports car and that didn't have any problem cranking or need any special tricks to aid starting - it only had a little motorbike battery too...
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Provided you don't need an Odometer for legal reasons then any of those above would do what you asked. If you need an odometer then I think only Motec can do that.
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You probably need to state what features your are looking for...
For instance if you just want to display ECU data then there are many low cost options like Gaugeart or an android device with the Torque app. If you want more advanced features like predictive lap times etc then it might be Plex or AiM. If you want good logging capability and Data analysis software then Motec would be the choice.
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Tnf, both these sensors should work fine spliced directly to link AN volt input without any extra pull-up. The fact that the gauge uses a pull up to 3.6v does not matter you will just not be taking advantage of the full 5v resolution.
this type of connection is done all the time for sharing gauges and piggy back ecu installs.
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Check out gaugeart.com, they do a CAN to video adaptor that works with G4+. You will need their vga to composite adapter also if your lcd doesn't have vga. I don't think you will be able to use torque via obd2 and gaugeart at the same time however since they probably use different streams.
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Sam,
Do you have a log you can share? Its hard for anyone to guess without some data.
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Are you sure it really is lean and its not just a misfire that is making your wideband read lean?
Two further things to check:
Factory ballast resistor pack is still attached/connected (it needs to be).
Injectors are receiving full 13-14V on the live side.
If those two check out and it really is lean then it is most likely a fuel pressure issue as Rich has suggested.
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If you want knock control I would strongly suggest stretching the budget to a Storm. An Atom plus an extra standalone knock device then the extra wiring and tuning of two devices will work out about the same or higher cost as a storm with built in knock control. The integrated knock control functions would be hard to match by any standalone system.
For lambda my suggestion is to avoid innovate controllers (noisy analog, short sensor life) and preferably go for something that can communicate via CAN. Right now the AEM X-series would be my pick, although there has been a few hints on this forum that there might be something new from Link soon too.
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The schematic above is not complete enough to say with certainty but from what you have shown I would expect it to work ok provided the "blackbox" is programmed correctly and it behaves like a mechanical relay (i.e its outputs do truly go open circuit when off and its inputs aren't even weakly tied together or to anything else (pull ups etc)). It seems like the black box it is a fairly new product so there may be some odd bugs/behaviour that is not documented...
You havent shown the coils/ignition system in that schematic - how is this connected?
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If you still have the same problem with all aux's disconected (f/pump, fans, boost solenoid etc) then it must be something else odd with your injector or ignition supply. I suggest you post a schematic of how you have wired the main supply relay and associated connections to ecu, inj & ign. Even just scribble on paper and post a photo. That will make it quicker & easier for tech support to work out the problem.
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Note it's a holiday here in NZ today so link support won't reply today.
Most likely it is some device wired to one of the aux outputs that is back feeding - are they all wired per the pclink help? You could try pulling all aux out pins out of the ecu connector to confirm that
Error
in G4+
Posted
You are using the G4 software and not the G4+ PC link right?