Adamw

Probably if you can set it up so that your sync pulse is nowhere near your missing tooth it may work. I have only been asked to tune a couple of aftermarket ECU's that used the map type sync and neither of them would stay synced for long (not links). I definitely can confirm however that the link will stay 720 synced when using a missing tooth crank if you completely remove the cam pulse while running - I'm just not sure if it will be happy if the cam pulse is still connected and drifting around a lot. For the other bike engines you mentioned I suspect they would use the map sensor method as that seems common on bikes. It works fine with OEM's however because they design their whole trigger logic to work with the variable map pulse location.  Aftermarket ECU trigger logic needs to be much more generic as they have to work with a huge range of trigger types so they will never be as robust when it comes to rejecting errors from these odd sync types. Here's a bit of useless info for you just since you seem interested in odd sync strategies... The Zytek ECU's used in F1 & touring cars in 80's & 90's were sequential without any cam sensor (from memory they didn't even have a missing tooth crank wheel). They would just try firing on the first TDC event that it saw, if it didn't start after about 5 seconds then it would switch to the next TDC and would continue doing that until the engine started. Once it saw the RPM increase above cranking speed it would lock to the correct TDC just by counting teeth.Â

John, While I agree with Simon that many OEM's sucessfully use the map sensor sync strategy, in my experience it is a lot less successful in the aftermarket world. I think the issue you will find is that the 'location' of the sync pulse (in reference to TDC) will vary/drift significantly depending on things like cranking speed, air density etc. If it only moves within a small window of degrees and you can get it always happen between the same two teeth on the crank wheel then you should be golden and it will work fine, if however this sync pulse drifts so that its crosses over a crank tooth or even just happens too closely to a crank tooth pulse then you will start to see trigger errors and odd timing events. Personally I would be looking much harder at a more traditional cam sensor if you want something that will work easily from day 1 and continue to be reliable. There are many ways to do it, my first choice is always a sensor pointing at either a bolt or hole or notch on the cam drive sprocket, but I have even done things like poke a sensor through a hole in the rocker cover and have it see a cam lobe/rocker arm/bolt/lug/notch etc. The old 1GT101DC is a really good sensor for this type of thing because they trigger off almost anything ferrous and over quite big gaps - it seems to be reliable even when fitted inside the engine.

Are you sure it's 'maxing out at 180Kpa? On that screen shot you only have 55% throttle also so boost reached will be limited by that. If you can post your actual log and cal file then someone may be able to confirm if there is any issue.

Yes that is correct.

Weldon, Can you explain better what you want to achieve? You already have a MAP sensor connected to the ECU that can be set up to log 'boost' so why do you want to connect a separate to boost pressure gauge/sensor?

Did you try a relay coil already? Like this: http://www.haltech.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/Relay-Wiring-for-Tacho-Output1.pdf

Typical minimum pulse width for most injectors is often considered around 2ms to keep them in the linear response region although you can run some as low as 1ms with the correct injector characterisation data and an ECU that can use that data. I don't think minimum pulsewidth at idle will be too much of a problem in something like a Harley that only makes <50HP per injector.  I'm guessing they would have something like only 300cc/min injectors so idle PW will be >2ms in batch fire mode.

The more recent Harley's that have a Delphi ecm synchronize using crankshaft acceleration to identify compression stroke. I'm not sure however if it is used only during cranking/low speed or full time. Â The earlier Harley's that had a Marelli ecu I think didnt have any sync strategy and just ran batch fire/wasted spark.

I don't think there are many people left in the tuning industry that would disagree with your experience with innovate lambda controllers. You already have a few flavours to choose from that will do what you ask; For CAN based LSU4.9 controllers I believe the G4+ will already talk to KMS UEGO, Ecotron ALM or Motec LTC, For the NTK sensor your option would be Motec LTCN. Even if link did build their own lambda to CAN controller I cant see it ever getting much cheaper than some of those listed above. Â

You should be able to switch the 3 banks at different RPMs if you use 3 outputs and some imagination with the software, but I don't think you will be able to do it using a single output without a micro controller or significant analog electronics. For a single output control sequential shift light there are many other options though, Google these companies for some basic options: Cartek, Omex, Firmtec, T-Sport, Digital Race Electronics. For something a bit more flexible, this one here will work via the Link CAN bus to give you a few more options (but more $$): http://www.jti.uk.com/Shiftlight/

You can also usually make these high level tacho's work using a relay coil like this: http://www.haltech.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/Relay-Wiring-for-Tacho-Output1.pdf

It sounds very much like you have 12v back feeding through one of your aux outs. Have you tried disconnecting all aux out pins?

http://www.linkecu.com/forums/G4Forum/750191944?b_start=0#343324915

I haven't used a MSD DIS for many years and never with a G4 so I may not be much help, but can you please post your map and if poss a log of the engine cranking.

No you wont need a MSD ignition adapter. You have the ignition trigger set to 'rising' right? Do you get RPM displayed in PC link during cranking?

Ah yes, I should have paid closer attention to the original post. I had jumped to the conclusion that he was talking about the fuel pump prime so sorry to confuse matters. I have never needed much crank enrichment with most of the engines I have tuned.

There are other ways around this too - a check valve on your fuel pump will probably hold enough pressure in the fuel rail to allow the engine to fire before the fuel pump has kicked in. Alternatively you could add a jumper that energises the FP relay when the starter button is pushed...

I think you could also do what you want by setting up a GP limit table. Set the axis as TPS and RPM, then set the table so that it does a 100% fuel cut when engine is above 80%TPS and below say 250RPM.

Any normal NTC temp sensor will do such as those you would use for coolant or oil temp. If wired to an AN input use a 1kohm pullup as per page 39/40 of the manual.Â

Setup like this: Then just do the trigger offset calibration as per the manual.

Yes the RB26 CAS is often troublesome. There are two issues - 1. the decoding power needed at high RPM & 2. the mechanical backlash in the drive system when coupled with valve train harmonics/belt whip. To change to a proper crank trigger setup does involve quite a bit of engineering work or money to do it right. Not only do you need to mount a trigger disk and sensor on the crank but you also need to modify the cam sensor to give only one pulse per cycle. There are kits available from companies like ross balancers but you are looking at ~$1500. For a high output big dollar race engine then crank trigger is the best option. However for a less serious engine you can usually get reasonably solid triggering without going to such an extreme: Ensure all mechanical elements are good - the cam belt, pulleys, tensioner and the CAS spline drive must all be in good condition with no play. Change the disc inside the CAS to an aftermarket one with less slots (google AEM 30-8761) and you should be good to go. Â

I dont think either of these options would work particularly well without a lot of other conditions included in the stratagies... An oxygen sensor will indicate full lean any time that an engine is on a limit (regardless whether it's fuel or ignition cut) or any other misfire condition. So any time you hit any RPM limit, two step, launch control, anti-lag, gear cut, etc, your AFR/RPM limiter would be activated and would never deactivate because it will be in an infinite loop situation.  The fuel pressure based limiter stratagy may work better but still would need a lot of work to get it to work without too many false alarms. The G4 has a 'differential fuel pressure' parameter that you could use (fuel pressure-MGP) for one axis of the limit table, however you would need quite a large tolerance between 'normal fuel pressure' and 'low fuel pressure' to prevent false alarm/limits due to things like FPR lag during transients and altitude/atmospheric press variation. In my opinion you are better to fix your fuel supply issues, use quality components that you can trust and get the ECU mapped properly rather than mess around with safety stratagies which are really just an 'ambulance at the bottom of the cliff'.

I have done quite a few NA/ITB race engines and always use TPS only for the load.  I cant see even a well 'dampened' vacuum manifold giving you a useful signal for a MAP or blended load. The blended MAP/TPS strategies are useful for boosted engines with ITB's but not needed in your case. I connect the MAP sensor to the airbox only to compensate for any aerodynamic pressurisation. I have never had any issues with transient response with this type of setup. One thing I will mention is that with TPS based load you must setup your load axis with fine increments/resolution at low TP. So I normally my load axis would be something like: 0%, 2% 5% 7% 10% 15% 25% 40% 60% 80% 100% Then after initial tuning if there were any big changes in two adjacent rows then I might insert another load row. Â

Ok, I have the gear cut function working fine on a car using very similar settings to yours so you should probably now get in touch with link support directly for help. Send them a copy of your map and if possible a log of the fault happening so they can try to trace the issue using a simulator.

Your digital input function should be set to 'gear cut', not 'GP input'.