Adamw

Weldon, Can you explain better what you want to achieve? You already have a MAP sensor connected to the ECU that can be set up to log 'boost' so why do you want to connect a separate to boost pressure gauge/sensor?

Did you try a relay coil already? Like this: http://www.haltech.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/Relay-Wiring-for-Tacho-Output1.pdf

Typical minimum pulse width for most injectors is often considered around 2ms to keep them in the linear response region although you can run some as low as 1ms with the correct injector characterisation data and an ECU that can use that data. I don't think minimum pulsewidth at idle will be too much of a problem in something like a Harley that only makes <50HP per injector.  I'm guessing they would have something like only 300cc/min injectors so idle PW will be >2ms in batch fire mode.

The more recent Harley's that have a Delphi ecm synchronize using crankshaft acceleration to identify compression stroke. I'm not sure however if it is used only during cranking/low speed or full time. Â The earlier Harley's that had a Marelli ecu I think didnt have any sync strategy and just ran batch fire/wasted spark.

I don't think there are many people left in the tuning industry that would disagree with your experience with innovate lambda controllers. You already have a few flavours to choose from that will do what you ask; For CAN based LSU4.9 controllers I believe the G4+ will already talk to KMS UEGO, Ecotron ALM or Motec LTC, For the NTK sensor your option would be Motec LTCN. Even if link did build their own lambda to CAN controller I cant see it ever getting much cheaper than some of those listed above. Â

You should be able to switch the 3 banks at different RPMs if you use 3 outputs and some imagination with the software, but I don't think you will be able to do it using a single output without a micro controller or significant analog electronics. For a single output control sequential shift light there are many other options though, Google these companies for some basic options: Cartek, Omex, Firmtec, T-Sport, Digital Race Electronics. For something a bit more flexible, this one here will work via the Link CAN bus to give you a few more options (but more $$): http://www.jti.uk.com/Shiftlight/

You can also usually make these high level tacho's work using a relay coil like this: http://www.haltech.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/07/Relay-Wiring-for-Tacho-Output1.pdf

It sounds very much like you have 12v back feeding through one of your aux outs. Have you tried disconnecting all aux out pins?

http://www.linkecu.com/forums/G4Forum/750191944?b_start=0#343324915

I haven't used a MSD DIS for many years and never with a G4 so I may not be much help, but can you please post your map and if poss a log of the engine cranking.

No you wont need a MSD ignition adapter. You have the ignition trigger set to 'rising' right? Do you get RPM displayed in PC link during cranking?

Ah yes, I should have paid closer attention to the original post. I had jumped to the conclusion that he was talking about the fuel pump prime so sorry to confuse matters. I have never needed much crank enrichment with most of the engines I have tuned.

There are other ways around this too - a check valve on your fuel pump will probably hold enough pressure in the fuel rail to allow the engine to fire before the fuel pump has kicked in. Alternatively you could add a jumper that energises the FP relay when the starter button is pushed...

I think you could also do what you want by setting up a GP limit table. Set the axis as TPS and RPM, then set the table so that it does a 100% fuel cut when engine is above 80%TPS and below say 250RPM.

Any normal NTC temp sensor will do such as those you would use for coolant or oil temp. If wired to an AN input use a 1kohm pullup as per page 39/40 of the manual.Â

Setup like this: Then just do the trigger offset calibration as per the manual.

Yes the RB26 CAS is often troublesome. There are two issues - 1. the decoding power needed at high RPM & 2. the mechanical backlash in the drive system when coupled with valve train harmonics/belt whip. To change to a proper crank trigger setup does involve quite a bit of engineering work or money to do it right. Not only do you need to mount a trigger disk and sensor on the crank but you also need to modify the cam sensor to give only one pulse per cycle. There are kits available from companies like ross balancers but you are looking at ~$1500. For a high output big dollar race engine then crank trigger is the best option. However for a less serious engine you can usually get reasonably solid triggering without going to such an extreme: Ensure all mechanical elements are good - the cam belt, pulleys, tensioner and the CAS spline drive must all be in good condition with no play. Change the disc inside the CAS to an aftermarket one with less slots (google AEM 30-8761) and you should be good to go. Â

I dont think either of these options would work particularly well without a lot of other conditions included in the stratagies... An oxygen sensor will indicate full lean any time that an engine is on a limit (regardless whether it's fuel or ignition cut) or any other misfire condition. So any time you hit any RPM limit, two step, launch control, anti-lag, gear cut, etc, your AFR/RPM limiter would be activated and would never deactivate because it will be in an infinite loop situation.  The fuel pressure based limiter stratagy may work better but still would need a lot of work to get it to work without too many false alarms. The G4 has a 'differential fuel pressure' parameter that you could use (fuel pressure-MGP) for one axis of the limit table, however you would need quite a large tolerance between 'normal fuel pressure' and 'low fuel pressure' to prevent false alarm/limits due to things like FPR lag during transients and altitude/atmospheric press variation. In my opinion you are better to fix your fuel supply issues, use quality components that you can trust and get the ECU mapped properly rather than mess around with safety stratagies which are really just an 'ambulance at the bottom of the cliff'.

I have done quite a few NA/ITB race engines and always use TPS only for the load.  I cant see even a well 'dampened' vacuum manifold giving you a useful signal for a MAP or blended load. The blended MAP/TPS strategies are useful for boosted engines with ITB's but not needed in your case. I connect the MAP sensor to the airbox only to compensate for any aerodynamic pressurisation. I have never had any issues with transient response with this type of setup. One thing I will mention is that with TPS based load you must setup your load axis with fine increments/resolution at low TP. So I normally my load axis would be something like: 0%, 2% 5% 7% 10% 15% 25% 40% 60% 80% 100% Then after initial tuning if there were any big changes in two adjacent rows then I might insert another load row. Â

Ok, I have the gear cut function working fine on a car using very similar settings to yours so you should probably now get in touch with link support directly for help. Send them a copy of your map and if possible a log of the fault happening so they can try to trace the issue using a simulator.

Your digital input function should be set to 'gear cut', not 'GP input'.

If you are only after one or two channels, the VEMS amps are quite cost effective also: https://shop.vems.hu/catalog/amplifier-dsub9-p-129.html?osCsid=57b0ae22a0118f887164b1607c5090a7 I don't like using the Dsub type connector so I just pull the PCB out of its case, trim it down a bit, solder wires on directly and heat shrink it into the actual harness/cable. That gives you a nice neat install with no extra boxes everywhere.

You can do something similar using 'multiple boost tables' and switch them using virtual aux's. There's a few different ways that you could do it but you could have say 'Boost table 1' set up with your full E85% boost levels. Then you would set up a virtual aux to that turns on when say ethanol content is between 72%-80% - use this to switch over to 'boost table 2' which would be a medium boost table. Set up another virtual aux for say <= 72% ethanol and use that to switch on 'boost table 3' - which is your low boost settings.

Looks very much like a Molex micro-fit 3.0 to me. You will be able to get them from someone like RS components, Digikey or Mouser. I would look closely at the drawings for P/N 43025-0600 (6pin receptacle) 43025-0200 (2pin receptacle) 43030-0001 (terminals) You will probably need to by a minimum of 100 terminals but they should be cheap.

Yes, provided you still have one of the digital inputs spare you can splice your ABS reluctor sensor signal into any of the DI's on a storm. Ensure the DI pullup is turned off and calculate your cal number per the help file. If your 94 tooth ring rotates at wheel speed then your cal number will probably be in the 4000-5000 range.Â