Phil Williams

Hi Trey, My suggestion is loading in the G4 plug-in basemap for the version 8 sti, then manually setting up the inputs and outputs to suit the G3 ECU. Thanks, Phil

Hi Andy, Basically you need a function that doesn't yet exist in the ECU - GP Timers. There have been several requests for these and it is something that we are going to do. I think you will be looking around the end of October before this becomes available. For now, possibly just run the water pump like a conventional pump using PWM while the engine is running. Thanks, Phil

Hi, What version are you using? I'm fairly sure that this has been fixed in the latest build. Regards, Phil

Email our sales team and they will be able to direct you to a dealer. [email protected] Thanks

Hi, There are no issues you setting up your coils in a wasted spark configuration. Check out this .pdf for a wiring example. http://www.linkecu.com/support/documentation/technical-drawings/I24%206%20Cylinder%20Single%20Post%20Wasted%20Spark%20Example.pdf Thanks Phil

Hi Mark, What do you mean by too aggressive? Too much boost? If you want to remove some of the aggression, decrease the amount of air being bled into the engine. Based on this you will need to adjust the amount of ignition retard and cut to get the anti-lag to stabilize the RPM around 2000. If you want to make the same/more boost but have the RPM settling lower, increase the ignition retard and cut - but be careful as extra retard will generate more heat in the exhaust potentially damaging something. Also check the anti-lag timeout is set correctly (typically around 3 seconds). Hope this is a starting point. Cheers, Phil

Hi Matt, We have had a few of these issues with G4 upgrades. Can you please send me your .pcl file? Thanks

Hi Nick, Still having issues with the engine we worked though earlier? The software looks good, the problem here is the engines mechanical setup is on the limit of the ECUs driving capability. Can you run the system with only one return spring to reduce the mechanical load on the throttle motor? The only other solution I can think of is running two of the new external e-throttle modules in parallel - this will need testing from our end first. Thanks

The Xtreme ECUs +5V output is rated at 1500mA, although you should never get near this with common automotive sensors. The output is protected so you won't damage anything if excessive current is drawn, but the supply voltage will fold back. Hope this helps.

Hi, Currently we do not provide overlay tables to achieve exactly what you wan't, but for something sort of close you could try this: Set up boost tables - RPM vs TPS and RPM vs %SLIP Set the switching condition as a virtual aux channel. Let the virtual Aux channel trigger the change to the second map based on % slip. (e.g. %slip > 1%). So basically when your wheels spin up, it will change over to the 2nd table - here you can remove boost based on slip. It will change back to the normal table once the slip is equal to or less than 1%. Make sure that the duty cycles in the slip table are lower than any duty cycle in the 1st table (in regions where slip could occur).

Hi, Yes this is a problem, luckily an easy fix from our end. Email me at [email protected] and I will send you a file to fix this problem. Regrards, Phil

Yes, closed loop boost control has been developed. It is in it's final testing stage and will be publicly available in a future firmware release. Regards, Phil

The latest individual cylinder knock retard function works with G4 firmware. The ECU does not need to be connected to PCLink for knock retard to operate. Unfortunately the G2 can not be upgraded to run G4 firmware.

Ferenc, these features are now completed and you will find these in the next firmware release.

Hi Rui, SW1 needs to be connected to ground. The DI has an internal pull up resistor, so a ground switch is required to change its state. The most common issue with ECUs not shutting off is either as Martin said backfeeding through AUX channels or a relay latching on due to a wiring configuration. I am also confused with the link drawn in relay one. On a side note, Knock sensors are meant to be wired to dedicated knock channels and not analogue volt channels. Going forward can you please explain how relay one is configured?

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Tim, Sorry if I was hard to understand in my first post. Signal Grounds (Green) - go to sensor grounds Shield Grounds (Green) - connect to any shield If this doesn't make sense please call us.

Do you have the dwell edge incorrect? Also it could be a wiring issue?

please contact [email protected]

whats your email address?

sorted on email

First Qn: We unfortunately do not have a plugin for the KA24DE. Second Qn: All the information you will need is in PCLink Help. But as a quick overview: Power Grounds (Black) to two clean spots on the engine block (for injection, ignition and other solenoids) Signal Grounds (Green) to sensors (Crank, Cam TPS etc). Shield Grounds (Green) connect to shields (triggers etc)

Thanks Martin

Hi, To isolate the problem you can do the following. Hold the engine at idle with constant AFR, measure the output voltage of the LC1 respective to its ground. Measure the voltage at the ECU respective to its own ground. Compare these results, they should be very similar. The next thing to do its calculate the voltage you would expect coming out of the sensor at this AFR, compare results. From here you can do the same with what the ECU is expecting in terms of its own calibration. Please let us know how you get on. Regards, Phil

Hi Eric., Connect to the LC1 with its software and see what the calibration is. Enter this into a calibration table and everything should work. Make sure the innovate is grounded near the ECU.