Brad Burnett

I have seen this kind of error in stats pretty often. As Scott said a trigger error will cause this kind of thing and RB CAS are pretty notorious for being finicky. I would not be too concerned if you know that you were simply driving it normally and this happened.

Warchild, If you use the modelled fuel equations and have the "Fuel System Type" set to "FP Sensor" then the ecu will automatically adjust fuel injector pulse width to compensate for falling fuel pressure. But adding an ignition cut or boost reduction via a GP limit for large fuel pressure drops would not be a bad idea. Brad

Warchild, I can tell you from tons of experience with the Subaru platforms that you will not want to use the factory "A/F sensor" to tune the engine. As Scott said, they are not super accurate any where except for 14.7:1 AFR. But with all the experience that I have with them, they are actually better than most OEM sensors. They will read pretty accurate down to about 12.5:1 AFR. Just about anything richer than that and it will just peg out at 11.14:1. If you have any common sensor I would highly recommend a quality wideband set up. Anything in the realm of an AEM UEGO, Innovative, Link CANLambda, Motec LTC, Ecotrons ALM. Hope this helps. Brad

post a copy of your calibration please.

I looked at your cal file. The rpm lockout is only pertinent to closed loop ISC.

You may need to manually set up the throttle voltages. I have had many issues with using the autocalibrate for the dbw. Basically look at the run time values list, and manually actuate the dbw throttle blade and note the high and low voltages. Then when you go to dbw tps calibrate, you simply input the numbers that you recorded. You will also need to verify that you have the main and sub sensors the correct way around. If one of the sensors maxes out earlier, then that one will be the sub. And you will need to notate the approximate tps main % that the sub maxes out at. Good luck. Brad

Hopefully this is not out of line to post. I saw someone ask if it was ok to post units for sale and one of the higher ups said it was allowed. If not let me know. We have a shelf full of older G4 Plug in ecus that we need to move. All units are Brand new in factory packaging. Most are unopened. Pricing is semi negotiable. 2x Honda civic 96-99 $1100 each 1x Mitsubishi Evo 4-8 $1100 1x Lightning $800 1x Mini Cooper 02-06 $1500 2x Mazda MX5 Miata $1000 each 1x Nissan 300zx $1000 1x Nissan s13 $1000 1x Nissan s14/15 $1000 1x Nissan s15 $1000 2x Mazda Rx7 S6 $1000 each 1x Mazda Rx7 S7-8 $1000 1x G4RX wire in Rotary $950 1x Subaru WRX Ver 1-2 $950 1x Subaru WRX Ver 3-4 $950 1x Subaru WRX Ver 7-9 $1100 All pricing is in US Dollars. Shipping is available at additional charge. Please let me know if you have any questions that I may be able to answer.

The knock control is good as long as it is set up correctly. But you will still need to tune the vehicle first with out it so you can establish what the noise characteristics of the motor are. Then set up the knock control based off the knock sensor levels that you see while doing the initial tuning.

How do you have the IACV wired up? It will just be a power, ground, and a signal from the ecu in most of the ver7-9 motors. If its an older idle valve it will be a power and 2 signals from ecu. One to open, one to close. I would take the idle valve off and test it on the bench. I have seen a ton of those get all gummed up and not work correctly. As for the 4 or 6 wire idle valve, that only pertains to stepper motor idle valves, which you should not be dealing with on this application. As for idle staying high, is the idle rpm higher than the target idle speed + the rpm lockout? If so then the ecu will not try to do anything about the idle speed due to the rpm being above its control range. I would disconnect the idle valve and get the vehicle to idle nicely with out it. Maybe have it idle a touch lower than what you would want. Then get the idle valve working for the fine adjustment. Good luck, Brad

If you have an H pattern box, it will be a very simplistic control. If you wire in a clutch switch to a digital input, you can have that be the trigger for flat shift. You will need some kind of sensor or digital input. In you case, clutch switch is the easiest.

What Mapper said is spot on. And the addition of rocker arm stoppers will just lead to even further damage.

If those coils are individual per cylinder, you can run the 6 cylinder ignitor and just have each of the 3 ignition channels split to 2 channels on the ignitor. if the coils are double ended coils(each coil has 2 plug wires coming off) then you can still use the 6 cylinder ignitor, you will just only use 3 of the channels instead of all 6.

Different tps connector between the 1600 and 1800 miatas.

yes you can convert to waste spark with no issues. The Rb ignitor is typically a 6 channel ignitor. What coils are you going with?

The stock tacho on that engine is run from the factory computer not the ignition system. So as long as the Atom is running the tacho you should be fine. There is no need for an inductive clamp. If the tacho doesn't work for some reason, at most you will need to purchase an MSD tach adaptor which will still be run from the Link Atom Aux out.

Adamw, I'm sure you just overlooked it, but OP has this going on with an Atom. They don't have the on board trigger scope function. David, could you post a picture of this black box? It sounds like an ignitor to me. If it is an ignitor, it will generate some heat. They usually have a Heat sink side and that does need to be mounted to a flat surface for it to transfer heat and not damage itself.

You should be ok with the way you wired the dist. Could you post a copy of your cal file? And if you have spark to the cap but not the plugs, I would be looking at a cap and rotor or the whole dizzy itself.

Rory, This may be a dumb question, but have you input the activation code for the ecu in the features unlock section? The ecu will not output spark or injection signal without that. Brad

Your polarity on the sensors is correct. Looked through the .pcl file and all the trigger settings look correct. Only thing I would do is lower the trig 1 arming thresholds to suit. You have 0rpm at .3v and 500rpm at 1v. I would lower the 0rpm to .1 and the 500 rpm to .3v. Then try cranking the thing again and see what your trigger error counter does. On a side note, the air gap on the trig1 sensor may be too big. Might look into reducing that in order to get the voltage up. Really keen to see where this goes as I have a 1ggte that I will be installing in a project soon.

Power Bank Shop, How do you have the sensors wired? They will need a sensor power, sensor ground, and the signal out to ecu. Another thing to keep in mind (Hall sensors or optical which act as hall) is that the Atom does not have the +8V regulated output that you would normally use for the Hall/optical sensor power. I know that GM uses the unregulated +12-14V for hall sensors and I have used it on many Japanese hall/optical sensors with no issues.

Just turn the hard limit on in the advanced settings

turn on advanced rev limit settings. reduce the control range so it hits the hard limit with less effort.

The help file in the software is context sensitive. If you are interested in trigger help, simply click on one of the trigger setttings and press F1 and it will take you directly to that setting in the help file. As far as the triggers go, you mentioned that you changed the cam wheel but did you also change the crank? Also, the 1998 Japanese STI engine is a version 7-9 and would not have needed the cam gear change.

Blink, Shoot me an email at [email protected] and ill see what I can get you as a base cal

Hey guys, I have used both the x series gauge and inline controller in both analog and can setups. Both ways have been just fine. In the past, I have had to fudge the numbers in the aem calibration for the the ecu to match the gauge. I know that the aem ecus have a calibration gain that you need to play with to get the ecus to match the gauge as well. Hope this helps.