MagicMike

Hi team, If anyone is interested, I have attached a log and tune file from last night. I have since made a few changes to the VE map based on this log. It would be very much appreciated if anyone could have a look and offer any advice as far as configuration or anything is concerned really. I don't claim to be a tuner, I probably know just enough to be dangerous, but I like to have a go myself. Modlist is extensive, turbos, breather mods in and out, cams, top feed injectors (bosch or Xspurt 1650/1550 or whatever they are). I have retained VCT. I have only really touched on the fuel map where I could hold with the brakes, and have done just enough WOT pulls to know it is really fat up top. Have had great struggles getting injector data that seemed to be ok. I'm not sure why my 3500rpm column is so much heavier than the rest, but it seems it is what it likes. Any and all feedback would be much appreciated! Thanks in advance, Mike https://www.dropbox.com/s/9csf2zjdyrzue2n/coast.pclr?dl=0 https://www.dropbox.com/s/10xn3jkcf4vqvkd/Log 2017-12-14 11%3B45%3B15 pm.llg?dl=0

Can you elaborate a bit please? Got an example of what kind of tables you use?

Fantastic, thankyou muchly

The actual speed sensor for the Z32 is in the gearbox, and is surfaced in the software as DI3 LR Wheel Sensor. Not exactly sure what chain of events gets the signal from the gearbox sensor to the DI. I am pretty sure the sensor goes straight to the speedo and then to the ECU (PIN 53). When I say 'dash' I am simply displaying PC link on a screen, no CAN devices or connections other than the widebands. I am quite sure that PC link is displaying what would be the correct speed if I have a factory diff and tyres close to stock rolling diam.

Hi all, not sure if currently possible, or possible in the future, but I would love to be able to apply a correction factor to the displayed speed. I have a shorter than factory diff, which wasn't an issue previously as the speedo had been modified to display correctly (with a potentiometer I think). But I didn't consider that when I did the dash install, so now I have to guess my actual road speed. Some kind of calc would be fantastic to allow for this, or tyre size changes etc to keep the actual speed accurate.

Doesn't look like they are connected, but wiring isn't my strong point (actually not sure I really have any strong points!)

Wiring diagram indicates signal, and also shield on both sides (knock sub harness and also ECU side). ECU side shield is terminated at PIN 50 on a factory ECU. Ground not connected to sensor.

+ another!

That's pretty cool, been looking for something to use to scroll through different tabs on the pclink dash...

Great! Thanks again mate

Hi again everyone. I wasn't sure where to put this, so I will ask a couple of questions related to the G4+ plug in also (300Z). I received my ALM CAN II the other day, and I was surprised that it had a connector on the cable labelled CAN (see pic). I was expecting just a twisted pair, so I am not sure if they have actually sent me a serial jobbie accidentally. I popped the connector off and there are only 2 wires (other pic). Have asked the question without reply as yet and I want to get cracking on this ASAP. Does anyone have any thoughts? Now related to the plug in, what is the best way to connect? This? http://www.nzefi.com/product/nzefi-link-g4-g4-plug-ecu-can-cable/ Seems I have reached my attachment limit, so sorry for the tiny pic

Pretty much finished. First startup in car vid at the link below. https://www.dropbox.com/s/p73ni3uusoj6t7m/car pc dash small.mp4?dl=0

Thanks! I have tried to make use of transients removing Accel Fuel and also TP with mixed results. Intent is to catch semi steady state cells. I also typically use 80 to 90% of active cell.

If anyone has time, I'd love to get a bit more detailed info on some filters and values that you use regularly, and why.

I just got my trigger from nz wiring yesterday. Do away with the CAS altogether.

How are you going to balance it? 50/50 worries me

Yes I have experienced the issues myself (z32), and I now run a crank trigger and single cam sync. Im confused as you say you have a crank trigger hut are still concerned with the stock cas disk. Sort out some cam sync solution like Brad says with aem disc or something and never look back.

The Z32 disk has 360 + 6. I'm a bit confused by what you are trying to achieve with this? If you have a crank sensor already why do the 360 slots cause you trouble?

Just a follow up to the above. I stupidly fried the original unit with reversed power. Got a new one and out of the box, the new one starts with power applied. Bonus!

That is interesting. My logs show the opposite. Oem in rail sensor and cont. flex sensor in the return but before the fuel cooler. Typically 2-5degs hotter on the return. Could be down to different sensor types I guess, who knows. In other news, I test drove open loop control of the 2 pumps in parallell 2night (via SSR PWM). Worked well. Laptop went dead before i could try anything else.

I am in the process of doing something with a PIPO X8. It has no battery, and changing the BIOS bricks the unit, so it will need to be powered on manually each time, but that is something I am willing to work with. It is exactly 2din screen size, but the unit itself is a weird shape.

No such luck having room to swing a cat like you! Seriously considering re-plumbing the return line via the front of the car for some more room, but I am a bit nervous about putting fuel lines in the impact zone.

Yes, my rail is held in place with the upper plenum bolts unfortunately. Tank is steel, and I have a ducted cooler on the return line, which is great while the car is moving. My temps are highest when stopped on the side of the road looking at logs etc (haven't ventured out into traffic yet).

Fantastic!

In my current config, I have seen mid 50's. Old surge tank/fuelab setup I saw mid 60's! It would be great to have axis configuration of the open loop FP Speed table, 3D even. Totally in line with this thread. I have tried nearly everything to insulate all my fuel system from everything hot (cool tubes and heat shields everywhere!), and while I have made some gains, I'm going to have to revisit isolation as opposed to insulation. I will have to have a closer look, but I don't think I can get away with inserting some washers, I fear it will raise the rail too much and unseat the bottom. That is the general idea. Same all under the car and up the firewall etc. Thanks for the link, I watched a couple last night, some good info!