MagicMike

Following on from this, trying to work out how and where to mount the controllers... Will they survive in a Z32 engine bay? Manual says 100degs, obviously wouldn't be mounted anywhere on the engine itself. Should be ok? The cables aren't long, and I'd rather not have to have the sensor plugs on the cabin side, so I'm exploring options. Thanks!

Thanks Adam, that pretty much settles it for me I'd think.

Thanks for the info! So 2 x link units sounds like winning. Is it correct that the spartan units use the same protocols as link? 2 way communication, turn off CLL on sensor error etc?

Hi all, I'm having some trouble with the cheap ECOtrons dual CAN, and sensors failing/becoming slow or inaccurate. I've used the 4.9 sensors they provided, and when one failed, I bought another pair of the 'motorsport' (better heat tolerance supposedly) version from a local reputable vendor. One of these sensors is now failing also (stable at stoich, slow or stupid rich/lean either side of that). I've tried 2 different sensor locations, firstly about 700mm from the manifold, and 2ndly in the factory o2 location in the dump pipes. Wiring for the controller is powered on with fuel pumps. What's the best option to replace the ECOtrons in this day and age? Would be great if it could report diagnostics etc to the Link (300z plug in). Experiences, suggestions, info welcomed. Regards, Mike

That's be nice. Dual mode works well around idle and cruise, haven't really done any testing to see what happens under any real load.

So I bit the bullet and changed them on Sunday anyway. Started up last night and they seem good at idle. Got some hrs to put in now before Easter trip. Assuming the world doesn't end before then of course.

Thanks muchly, appreciate the response!

Hi all, I currently use bosch 1650s, but I feel for my application they are just a bit too big. I kind of want my cake and also to eat it, in that my Z32 will mostly run on 98, but be flex tuned. In a previous life, this setup has made 600+rwhp on 98, so I'm looking near 700 in the end. I've bought a set of ID1300X in the hope that they'll be just large enough at full beans on e85, but also perform well on 98 at idle/low load. My question is to those that have plugged in ID injector data. How good was it? Turn key with some tweaks? Pulse adder/deadtime values good etc? I know I will have to redo my entire fuelling config which is ok, but is the data provided for link ecu's any good off the bat? I have a super long drive in a few weeks (2000+kms), trying to decide if I should make the injector change before I go or not, as I am confident the current setup will be fine as I have spent a stack of road time on it. Cautious about making such a change with not much time to get it sorted. On the plus side, if I make the change I will get alot of data! Any insights?

I can't recall sorry, I never bothered to return to try and sort this out, I just use the car pc.

Yeah I got to the bottom of the abnormal program close, the functionality of the program is fine now, I just can't connect it to the ECU. Have tried removing the device/drivers, uninstalling both instances of PCLink, reinstalling, but still getting stuck on the drivers. Installed on a clean new laptop fine. Any more ideas?

I went with c:\link g4 latest instead of (or as well as) the default c:\l link g4 On both the car pc and laptop. One works fine, one does not. Yellow exclamation against the device in device manager.

Is there anything specific I should be doing when upgrading to latest PCLink and firmware? Been running on the old ones largely because my car is always off the road. I decided to do the upgrade the other day via the car PC which is always in car. Install file on USB stick. Install into new location (didn't want to remove the existing happy version just in case). Everything worked fine. Now I tried the same thing on my laptop and I am having connection/driver issues. Initially I got stuck on the 'abnormal program close' issue, fixed that with the permissions. Now this.

Hi all, I have 2 questions. Context. I started my Z32 again last night after a few more modifications. Only let it idle up to temp to check leaks etc, and I heard a few changes in idle so I took a quick log file to have a look at. Reviewing the file a bit closer, and I see some rpm seemingly random flat spots on some parameters. RPM ROC will highlight them. Any ideas on what would cause this? 2ndly, it'd be great to get some ideas on what is causing the idle rpm change. Idle ignition comes in to play, but I can't pick what causes the rpm change in the first place to bring idle ignition in to it. tune https://1drv.ms/u/s!ApBSN3rrOxrRoxS6V-tH-t-abEgj log https://1drv.ms/u/s!ApBSN3rrOxrRoxWTZQZJkGJtWnIU Thanks muchly!

I use the SSR method to control 2 x 460/485 (whatever) pumps in my Z32. Works great.

I have done as Adam has said, cover the slots with tape. Worked, but I wouldn't use it as a long term solution. Better solution is a replacement disk (like AEM). Even better is ditching the CAS for another sensor/trigger combo.

FYI, looks like the release date is a year out

.9V sounds like a bit drop

If you plan on doing any road tuning, keep in mind you won't have a dash (speed/rpm etc) when you plug the laptop in for tuning.

Or a laptop/mini pc, with a remote connected screen in the dash. this is what I have done.

A PCLink update!

You'll need to setup wastegate tables with switch off and then again for switch on.

It will go to large numbers when overrun fuel cut activates.

+1

Have you tried turning it off and then back on again?

On the contrary, I have found the link help menu extremely useful, and able to work through most systems by reading up in there.