MagicMike

Possible to show GP PWM DC% in logging? Or only status?

Yeah I have seen his stuff on FPR's, and his testing is what prompted me to go with the FPR2000. Noise isn't an issue with the 2 x 460's in tank, it is the temp I am trying to keep under control. So you are just using open loop FP Speed? Be very interested to hear if anyone has used CL on a return style layout. I can't see why it wouldn't work, but what do I know...

Has anyone tried this? Does it work? Got my pumps running via SSR, and while adjusting FP Speed duty %. I can obviously see fuel pressure (and differential pressure) changing slightly with pump duty with regulator base unchanged from staged pump config. I can turn regulator seat pressure up to keep base pressure same while reducing pump duty. Which got me thinking about some kind of feedback loop control of pump speed as opposed to open loop control. Initial thoughts were GP PWM such as below, for argument sake say that 50% gives me 300kpa differential. Have not taken this further than the hoist, is it worth spending any more time on? Or closed loop FP Speed an option? Or just stick with open loop? Ultimate goal is minimum fuel circulation while retaining suitable pressure as demand increases. School me please.

Thanks Adam. The SSR I have is the one from Jaycar in the original post in this thread. What I took from your post, is that the trigger for the relay should be as per Ducie's last diagram, which I have modified below. Any issues with this? Actually, Ducie's last diagram is why I asked about the diode, as it is not in his final, but was in the earlier ones.

Bumping this up... I have recently changed my fuel setup from big (useless) fuelab pump on a surgetank, to 2 x walbro 460's in tank. Initially they are staged, and working as expected, but the fuel (and differential) pressure increases more than I would like with the 2nd pump on (between 25 and 30kpa). Long term, I am concerned about having 1 pump dormant majority of the time, so I would like to run them together, but this comes with the downside of increased fuel flow (heat, which I have had issues with). So, I would like to try the SSR method of PWM control on both pumps together. Looking for advice on how to wire this up, understanding that factory fuel pump relay needs to remain as master on/off control (rpm=0=pumps off). Can I have the OE fuel pump relay control feed Pin 2 in this diagram? Both pumps earthed directly to battery. I also need to ask about the use of the diode, and if it is required, and if so, how to know which one and where to put it?

300 owners stick together

Makes it more difficult to pop around and take a look

Where are you located Cols?

Which tablet? So have you got the tablet talking to the ECU?

I see about 150kpa and about 180kpa, so about 30kpa difference (4 or 4.5psi).

Very nice

Great info, thanks!

If this is the case, and not all 14 are used, what happens? Logging still show the DC % changing, but the change doesn't actually make it to the output?

I have been experiencing similar behaviour to this, but without the controller in question, my controller is built into the fuelab pump. I haven't tried enough different variants to draw a conclusion yet however.

Yes I have watched that webinar a few times, and all the G4+ software tutorials, and the dyno and road tune G4+ worked examples. They do good stuff! Hopefully it was only that one little detail I missed.

I run twin rails into single out reg. Sensor on the return to tank. Have also seen as Adam says above, a bypass setup. IMO, only 1 sensor is needed. All the fuel comes from the same tank so shouldn't matter where the sensor is, all fuel should be same content. Generally speaking of course. Like if you have a surge tank and you have just filled up with e85 when you last ran 98

Out of interest, I went back and checked the 300z base map and knock control is turned off, so I am not sure why I had it in my head that it would just work. At some stage I have turned it ON Knk Internal. So how do I set it up to use the factory sensor (PIN23/Knock 1)? Should it be KNK Internal I assume? I understand the windowing and lockouts. Aaaannd I think I have just found the answer. My gain channel is set to zero. I see now in the help file that a zero here disables the knock signal. I will try again and report back!

Me again. Have now got the car running and idling well. Starting the tuning process. Something I would like advice on is how the factory knock sensor (donut style, single wire) functions with this plug in. I was kind of expecting it to just work and be able to see knock values (or engine noise), but i am yet to get any values to show. Was expecting to use the knockbox to listen/view and confirm what the factory sensor was feeding the ecu. Knockbox is up and working well too thanks Adam!

With a big single? haha

Yeah thanks mate, I have tried as you suggested, not feeding the ecu I mean. I have also noticed that the pinouts are different between the defi and the chinese sensors, so I have tried all possible combinations. I also tried feeding one of them 12V. Buy shit buy it thrice I guess!

So I have had a shit of a time trying to get fuel pressure into the G4+, and I am pretty sure if is the sensors, but just throwing this out there... I had 1 sensor, off a Defi multi gauge (was working, showing correct pressure on gauge). I removed the gauge and kept the sensor installed, and ran new wires to the link. Found a calibration table, set it up etc. Now the issue I have is that the voltage on the signal wire is not changing. It's about 1.8V.. At this point, I assumed that the defi gauge must do something inside its brains, so I shelved it. Bought 2 new 0.5 - 4.5V sensors off ebay. Having the same issue in the signal not changing with pressure. Funnily enough, both sensors give different free air voltages, which don't change with pressure applied. One is ~0.8V and the other is ~1.4V. Hard to believe that 2 cheap chinese sensors from the same manufacturer (and probably batch) are so different, yet still behaving the same as a third unrelated sensor. I have tried different ECU inputs (both on the expansion loom and reclaimed the OEM MAF input). Even tried both sensors in different rail reference locations (have a gauge installed also so I know there is pressure). Events above not in true chronological order. Have an auto elec mate coming on the weekend with a known working sensor (working with G4+) and we will have another go. Just wondering if anyone else has happened on this type of thing, or have any obvious (or not so obvious) things to check. Confirmed (own) 5V supply, (own) sensor ground. Voltage the ecu sees is the same that the sensor puts out.

About 1.00 I think! But if you read in lambda, it wouldn't matter what fuel was used haha Stoich is stoich

I had previously always used afr, but since heading towards multi-fuel setup, have made the change to lambda. If you remove all references to afr in your life, it isn't hard and doesn't take long to make the adjustment!

Perfect. Thanks Adam

Pump Wiring, where Fuel Pump Control = Inj 7 Fuel Pump, and FP Speed = Aux 2