Confused
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Posts posted by Confused
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What calibration values have you used?
From what I can see in the instructions, range is 0.5v to 4.5v, and 4.5v is 60psi.
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Does it show PC Log - Recording at the top of the screen? You need to either set it up so that it's always logging when the engine is running, or you need to press F8 to start and stop logging.
So, here, I've set it up to log whenever RPM is greater than 50 (which should log the cranking) and I've pressed "Add All >>" button to include every single parameter.
You also haven't yet shared your configuration, by going to File -> Save As and sharing the resulting .pclr file.
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Yes, it should be working in Traditional mode.
Do you have the Target Lambda table configured?
Please share a copy of your configuration (your .pclx file) and a copy of a PC Log (with every single parameter added), which shows the issue you are experiencing.
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Indeed... but having already easily spent just as much previously on buying other, crapper controllers, and replacing the sensors when they were killed - mostly by letting them heat up when the ignition was on - with an ECU like the Link that's so configurable you often sit with ignition on to download logs, or make tweaks to stuff, and if your wideband controller is powered, and the sensor is heating, then you start the car, boom, sensor damaged with the thermal shock of a rush of cold air over a sensor element at around 780 degrees!
I figured it was actually cheaper to just finally buy the Link controllers. Wish I'd just done that initially, than messing around with the others.
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I would buy two Link CAN Lambda modules.
Actually, not just "I would", I actually did!
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The Aux outputs on a Link can switch up to 2A to ground, so you might not need to add an extra relay.
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You really should get the ECU knowing what the fuelling is doing, then you can use all the cool functions, set up closed loop lambda, fuelling based protection strategies, etc, but for that you'll need to pass on the AEM to someone who doesn't want to connect it to an ECU, and get yourself a better controller - the Link CANBUS one is utterly fantastic.
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2 hours ago, DerekAE86 said:
If you know the Lambda readings are wrong, why not just correct the calibration so they're correct?
Maybe he's using an old AEM wideband, do no matter what he does, it'll always be out?
But, seriously, you can't really expect for useful help and advice when you're telling us you're already ignoring a known basic configuration item...?
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You can test the outputs by configuring them as a GP Output.
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Auxiliary Outputs -> Engine Fan
In the default layout, I'm pretty sure the Help is automatically displayed to the right.
If not, try loading a Layout from Layout -> Load Layout, and load one of the Default Layouts there.
Also, once you've actually selected a property in the Config area, pressing F1 should give you the specific context help.
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You can't "reverse the error high/low", these are high and low voltage that will send the input into an error state.
As has been said, this indicates either a sensor failure, or a wiring issue.
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There are a number of additional safety procedures you can enable.
If you've not done so already, have a VERY long read of the Help within the app, almost every question you may have is probably already dealt with!
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Pretty much, yeah!
A lot of sensors are pretty generic, and will already be catered for in the ECU, but if not, the Link allows you to create custom calibrations for sensors anyway!
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Yes, definitely a fuse between the battery and pin 30.
Ideally pin 86 will somewhere be fused, but if you're drawing from another ignition switched circuit, this is probably already taken care of, and yes, you can combine these if you wish.
No additional fuses required.
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You perform this action with the car running.
Open this screen, and you adjust that cell AND THEN PRESS ENTER to set the change.
It seems people rarely read the Help...
@Adamw @Vaughan a couple of suggestions...
1) Shift this to a point "4" in this list, and make it big and bold and colourful...
2) Add a button to the Calibration screen next to this value for something like "Set New Value" (which performs the action of pressing Enter), and/or add some help text here when they've changed it but not pressed Enter, like this crude amendment:
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From the ignition switched 12v feed, to the relay, and then to the ECU, it can be pretty much anything, it's very low current. For future proofing, however, the spare Ign outputs can switch about 2A a piece to ground, so get wire suitable for this level of draw.
For the actual fan itself from battery via relay - how much current does the fan draw? Look up the various tables on the internet for recommended wire sizes for that load, and go at least one bigger!
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If you're already getting ECT in the ECU, then that side there's nothing to do.
Yes, Ign5 & Ign6 are suitable for outputs for this purpose. As previously said you would connect this to the coil of a relay, and connect the other side of that relay coil to Ignition Switched 12v feed. The ECU will ground this, to engage the relay. The relay then has a fused 12v supply from the battery, and the power out to the fan. The main bulk of the power never goes near the ECU, only a very low current triggering signal for the relay. @DerekAE86 has given you the exact wiring you need to do
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Look at the crosshairs on the table when you're running - this will show you exactly where it's grabbing the value from.
Also, what's up with your Warmup Enrichment table?
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If, for example, only half your radiator is covered by the AC condenser, then you could choose to have only one fan on when AC is on.
Fans may be staggered on OEM purposes for various reasons, one might be noise - no point in having two big fans on full blast if you only need to remove a little bit of heat from the radiator when you're at idle, but if you're really hot, you may need more airflow. So, they'll only put one fan on to start with, and introduce the other if necessary.
If you've got the spare outputs, then just wire up two outputs to relays so you have the choice to stagger the fans coming on and do some testing to see whether you need it or not - but if you're short of outputs, then just use one, there's no harm in having more airflow than you need, but it is a problem having less than you need!
As you've got AC, you'll want the ECU knowing about and controlling all of this too. The ECU can increase the airflow at idle to compensate for the extra electrical load of the fans, and the extra mechanical load of the AC compressor - if the ECU doesn't know about this, it can't control it as well!
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That dead time table looks very off to me on the top row for 14 and 16v, I think someone has offset that by a factor of 10, it should probably be closer to 0.80 and 0.65
This is another case where trying to save a few quid on injectors ends up costing way more in the long run in terms of time messing around, rather than just being able to plug in the known verified data and be happy!
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Whoever told you that the Link can't control fans is, frankly, an absolute idiot.
The ECU should have ECT, and there are a variety of outputs (Aux, and spare Injection and Ignition), and Fan functionality built into the ECU to natively control 3 fans, so you can ditch that "fan controller" box and the complexities and lack of control that come with it.
Basically, you would use an output to ground the coil of a relay (where the other side of the coil is connected to an ignition switched 12v feed), to activate the fan through the relay.
If you have two fans that you want to stage, use a second output and the second Engine Fan settings, so that you can have them come on at different temperatures to provide different levels of cooling.
In PC Link software, in the tree go to Aux Outputs -> Engine Fan and look at the configuration settings available, and read the Help that automatically pops up, this will explain it all.
There's even wiring diagrams available in the Help if you press F1 and go to Wiring Information -> Output Wiring -> Auxiliary Output Wiring -> Wiring Auxiliary Outputs, including details on how to avoid the common pitfalls that people encounter.
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I would ditch the fan controller, and let the ECU do all the work.
It already has ECT, and there are Aux outputs, and Fan functionality built into the ECU.
Use an aux output to ground the coil of a relay (where the other side of the coil is connected to an ignition switched 12v feed) to activate the fan. If you have two fans that you want to stage, use a second output and the second Engine Fan settings.
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On 7/6/2023 at 10:07 PM, koracing said:
so condition < 0.05 should do the trick?
If I use the raw An Volt 8 parameter, then yes, this works, and I can get it to be active when I'm at position 0.
However, using the GP Input 1 parameter, it seems to be offset?
I tried another thing - GP Input 1 parameter set to = 5, but it won't activate the GP Output unless the GP Input is showing a value of 6.
Is this company selling a legit Link G4X ECU that can work on 3000 GT?
in G4x
Posted
Brands Hatch Performance is a well regarded supplier, they just haven't updated their own product images from G4+ to G4X - you'll definitely get a G4X from them, though.