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Confused

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Posts posted by Confused

  1. 16 minutes ago, cubeqtio said:

    What input/value i need to add to be displayed as lambda 1 for realdash?

    There should be nothing different to what you had working previously, so long as you've configured the ECU itself correctly display and use Lambda 1.

    Unless you've done something weird and you're sending RealDash only the Analogue 4 value rather than the Lambda 1 parameter. You'll need to share substantially more information and re-word your question to fully explain what you're trying to do and what problems you have.

  2. 3 hours ago, cubeqtio said:

    Anyone have can lambda? If you do - how do you get lambda 1 to display as a gauge? I had before a innovate lc1 and it was connected to AN4 and was easy and simple to do. Now I cannot find an input to use for the can lamda. Help is appreciated. 

    The ECU takes the CAN Lambda details and uses it within the ECU, and the existing Lambda channel for RealDash is retained.

    RealDash doesn't accept the messages directly from the CAN Lambda module.

  3. So, you've had the whole wiring loom disconnected and handled, and now you have poor running issues?

     

    I'd be going back over every single connector, and do a continuity test on every single wire in the loom - I bet you'll find a pin or two in a plug somewhere that haven't reseated correctly during reinstallation.

  4. I've been having erratic readings with one of my speed sensor signals, and I've just now come across this video this evening, partly promoted by your post here!

     

     

     

    The TL;DW: of this is try rotating the sensor 90 degrees, the pickup inside it is actually only a small line of magnet, which may not necessarily be perfectly centred, and it might not actually be sensing the tooth well enough.

    This might have an impact at your higher speeds.

    Once it stops raining, I'll be popping my wheel off and giving mine a rotate - and I'll report back on my findings!

     

  5. The very latest G4X firmware (released only in the last couple of days) can reassign Ignition and Injector outputs, so that you can get around the previous limitation of needing to use Injector 1-x and Ignition 1-x outputs in sequence. This mean that some boards, such as the Evo 1-3, which had hardware on Ign4, could not be set up for sequential ignition, as you had to use Ign1-4, but with the new firmware, you could use Ign 1, 2, 3 and 5.

     

    However, for almost every other output - unused Ignition and Injector drivers, and most Aux outputs (other than those which have specific hardware on the vehicle-specific board, or are "dedicated", such as Aux 5-8 for an idle stepper motor), it is otherwise completely customisable as to what function is used on which pin.

     

    As for G4+ vs G4X - G4+ hasn't been sold for a few years now, so unless you're getting one for a very good price compared to a new G4X...

     

    But, if you're happy with re-pinning an ECU connector, and "losing" the ability to quickly swap back to stock ECU (however, why would you, once you've got a Link installed) - even a G4+ is still a great ECU, even if for a different vehicle - but the G4X is better.

     

    Just have a good look at what inputs & outputs are available, and make sure you'll have enough on the main header + expansions for your needs, and consider fun things you might want to do in the future... I found myself rapidly running out of inputs! :D 

  6. The "why" is because it's marginally easier for them to have a single analog pin than figure out how CANBUS works, it's a relatively new technology (introduced about 20 years ago), so many "tuners" haven't heard of it or know how use it :)

    When CANBUS is available for anything, especially lambda, this is substantially better - the controller has the data digitally, why would you want to convert it to a 0-5v output to then convert it back to digital data - it's an unnecessary conversion, and one that's liable to interference and offsets, causing inaccuracies.

    Wire it to CANBUS, and be safer in the knowledge that what the controller/gauge is reporting is what the ECU is seeing.

  7. You can't use the standard engine fan functionality with a PWM output, so you'll want to disable/ignore most of the Engine Fan functionality (unless you've still got A/C, and wish to have the Idle Up adjustments apply when the fans are running at full speed for the A/C)

    Here's two possible examples you could use for the GP PWM Output table:

    image.png.bc3ab996de7a69083a7aa8e18ce32560.png

    The first is loosly based on what a Legnum VR-4 does with A/C off (I have no A/C in my Anglia), where it varies fan speed based upon temperature. I, however, have a Chargecooler, so I have the fan come on earlier - for you, I'd ditch the 31 row, and change the 30 axis value to 84 instead - and of course you can vary the fan speeds.

     

    The Mitsubishi controller "fails safe" - if it loses the control signal it runs at 100%, so my logic here is inverted.

     

    The second option, below, could be used if you don't want speed-based variations, but purely on ECT and whether A/C is engaged or not. 

    image.png.3e783f2145819383fe9d209f8abf9db7.png

     

    This is how I've set up the output so that it's always active and grabbing the value from the table:

    image.png.a27777a97e6ea819a86680cd8181ad25.png

  8. Nope, not possible. The stock ECU image is dedicated for the processor in the ECU, it has nothing in common with a Link ECU.

    The Link G4+ can output OBD2 data, if the CANBUS setup is configured and connected correctly, but using CAN (which publishes data, as opposed to OBD which requests it) is faster.

  9. Each user is given a small amount of space to upload images, tunes, logs etc, so I guess you've filled your quota.

     

    Use something like Google Drive or Microsoft OneDrive to share anything else, or you can remove old attachments to clear up some space.

     

    Your lambda not working, or change of speedo is not going to be the cause of your lack of start.

     

    The best thing to share to get help is a copy of your current tune, plus a log with every single parameter.

  10. The "Find Devices" is only for programming Link CAN Lambda modules, it won't show anything else, so you can forget about this, it's leading you down a rabbit hole.

     

    From what I understand, the Haltech products have hard coded CAN streams so they offer "Box A" and "Box B" as separate products.

    There are TC8 streams provided with PC Link, whether these will work for the TC4s, I'm not sure...

    There's details in the Help for how to set this up.

  11. We'll need to see a log of it exhibiting the issue, too, but my guess is that Cyclic Idle isn't set up correctly, so at 20% throttle, all the air & fuel that this will usually provide is still being injected completely, hence the revs raising.

     

    My understanding is that the TPS should still be calibrated from your "normal" 0-100 range (without the throttle kicker engaged), which is why there's not an option to have a second calibration for the TPS.

  12. Are you actually using the Anti Lag & Cyclic Idle settings in the ECU, or are you just switching between two different fuel tables?

     

    Can you share your configuration so we can look at what you're actually trying to do, rather than try to interpret your words?

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