Confused
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Posts posted by Confused
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This setting is under Fuel -> Closed Loop Lambda
By default it's probably turned Off, so all the extra settings aren't visible.
However, be careful enabling it if you don't really know what you're doing, as it requires a number of other things around it to be configured for it to function correctly. The Help does explain it all, though, so get reading!
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Yes, it can.
You can specify which cylinder is attached to which bank, and which bank uses what Lambda channel.
So, because it's this configurable, my previous comment of "it doesn't matter" still stands. You decide what controls what
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Try adding or subtracting 360 from your current Trigger Offset. You may be trying to ignite on the exhaust stroke now.
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It doesn't really matter which way round Lambda 1 and Lambda 2 are, however for ease, it's better to follow the bank numbering.
The easiest way to confirm is to briefly disconnect power from one of the modules, and see if the Lambda 1/2 signal you expect stops responding.
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I've added (on top of the basics required to run the car, such as IAT, ECT, MAP sensor, boost solenoid, engine fan, check engine light etc):
Pre & post turbo temperature
Fuel pressure/temperature
Oil pressure/temperature
11 way rotary switch to control how much traction control I have
PWM speed controlled Chargecooler pump
Two wheel speed inputs (front and rear)
Oil warning light output
Brake switch
Clutch switch
Plus being a V6 I'm using 6 injector outputs and 3 ignition outputs, as I'm currently still wasted spark.
If I were to start again knowing all the funky stuff the ECU could do, I'd go for a wire in model, there's still loads I want to add but am out of inputs or outputs, and I'm still considering needing to get a CANBUS expansion to give me more!
It's a shame the Razor PDM is so expensive for the number of inputs and outputs, as I'd like to stick with the Link ecosystem, but at least the ECU has a very configurable CANBUS system, so almost any hardware can be made to work with it.
So - I'd recommend getting a list of the ECUs available inputs and outputs together and list your thoughts of what you might want to do - although as I said, I do still keep thinking of more things to possibly do, but can't yet!
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The Slip calculation for Traction Control needs to see a difference between Driving (powered) and Driven (unpowered) speed sources, to determine when to cut power...
From the Help, your options for speed sources are:
- LF Wheel Speed
- RF Wheel Speed
- LR Wheel Speed
- RR Wheel Speed
- Average Front Speed
- Average Rear Speed
- Min Front Speed
- Max Front Speed
- Min Rear Speed
- Max Rear Speed
- Average Four Wheels
- GP Speed 1
- GP Speed 2
- GP Speed 3
- GP Speed 4
- Outside Front Speed
- Outside Rear Speed
- GPS Speed
With 4 Driving (powered) wheels, though, the faster wheel could be either front OR rear, left OR right, so none of those are really suitable for finding an "obvious" way of determining slip - unless you can find a GPS Speed sensor which reacts quickly enough - a fast-acting 100-200Hz one is pretty expensive though!
Your gearbox speed sensor is essentially "Average Four Wheels" - so not sure that this will gain you much... but maybe there's something I've missed!
I've also got a 4WD Mitsubishi - a Legnum VR-4, this has some form of Traction Control - so someone out there somewhere has figured out a way of doing it with just 4 wheel speed sensors, gearbox speed sensor and maybe the accelerometers from the AYC/ASC system...
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The plug-in ECU is cheaper than the wire in because it has fewer inputs and outputs available, despite being based upon an Xtreme.
So - you'll need to have a close look at the available inputs and outputs, and see if your current (and future!) requirements are covered.
That's a trade-off only you can consider.
I ran out of inputs and outputs on my Evo 1-3 running a 6A13TT engine from a Legnum VR-4...
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I'm not a Link employee, so my responses here have no bearing really, but from my experiences, I feel the need to respond on at least some of them!
1. Closed Loop Lambda has quite a few calibration & configuration options, so it's likely that you just haven't found the right settings yet for the specific vehicle. Distance of the sensor from the combustion chamber makes a difference at a variety of engine speeds, which is why you have the Update Rate Table, and then you can also determine how aggressive you want the correction to be based upon how far away from target it is with the Gain Control Table. That said, it is also designed to maintain small corrections to an already tuned fuel table, not be a substitute for tuning.
4. Like Closed Loop Lambda, Closed Loop Boost is designed to supplement an already tuned Open Loop boost table. Once this is tuned correctly, you should simply need to adjust your Target Boost value, and the closed loop will adjust based upon minor fluctuations.
Maybe you're expecting the ECU to do a large part of your job as a tuner?
That said, it does have tools to aid you here, as one example, there's Quick Tune, which can be used in conjunction with a steady state dyno to fill in your fuel table, and Quick Trim/Mixture Map which can use values from a log file to amend the fuel table.
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The Help within PC Link is VERY good, so that's a good place to start, a lot of concepts are explained here, and in context with the ECU you're using, which is useful!
Also, there's resources like High Performance Academy and Evans Performance Academy which are more "structured" training via online videos, webinars and courses.
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Whilst some of the outputs can high side drive (switch 12v through the ECU), it's better to low side drive (switch ground through the ECU) wherever possible, in my opinion.
You have "GP Output" which you can use for a generic relay output, this can have a variety of parameters assigned to it for when it activates. DON'T use Engine Fan for this, UNLESS it's driving an engine fan relay - there's a whole set of logic behind this.
However - do you actually need to control the power to the coils from the ECU? When do you think you'll ever need to remove power from the coils? This will generally just be triggered from your ignition switch.
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I see that "Run when stalled" is disabled, which was my first thought - I've seen many sensors "killed" by sitting with ignition turned on, but not starting the engine, heating up the sensor, then when you finally start the engine, you throw cold, potentially damp air onto a very hot thin ceramic plate, shattering it.
How are the sensors themselves installed? What location, what orientation?
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5 hours ago, Mike928 said:
Set Aux 3 to E-throttle relay trigger, wired to a solid state relay powering Injectors, Plug B #5 [Aux 9/10] & plug D #4 [E-throttle 2 and APPS.
You don't want this relay feeding all these things with your E-Throttle relay - ONLY Plug B pin 5 for Aux9/10. If you're using E-Throttle 2 (Plug D pin 4) then this should have its own separate relay, triggered from a separate output, using the EThrottle Relay 2 function.
If the E-Throttle safety kicks in due to an error, it will kill power to the E-Throttle via this relay, but you still want the injectors to run, the engine will still function, and will be limited to 1800rpm, this is to allow you to still get the car to safety. If you've powered things like injectors from this too, you'll stop the engine, and this safety has gone, you'll be stranded where you are.
The AP Main should change values smoothly from 0% to 100% as you depress the pedal.
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A man with one watch always knows what time it is. A man with two watches is never sure.
I think you need to confirm the manifold pressure with another known good gauge/sensor, so that you can eliminate (or confirm) your findings.
You can also record in the logs MGP (Manifold Gauge Pressure) parameter and switch the display units to match your physical gauge(s) so that you can more easily compare.
If you share a copy of the tune and a PC Log (with all parameters defined) where this issue occurs, this will help us narrow down the issue better than just a screenshot of what you think is appropriate
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This is Manifold Absolute Pressure, so 140 kPa MAP is about 6psi (or 0.4 bar) boost.
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The digital inputs on the G4X can deal with up to 10000hz, so you should be fine without any frequency divider.
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Share a copy of the pclx configuration file. You've probably not assigned the Lambda 1 parameter correctly, but you've not given us enough info to confirm that yet.
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NO DATA means that you're not logging these parameters.
Make sure that you have every single parameter added for PC Logging by clicking the "Add All >>" button:
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My "feeling" is that the G4+ speed seemed to reflect what I'm seeing/feeling, whereas as soon as I enable any level of filtering here, it just feels "laggy".
With the G4+ when I came to a stop, it seemed that the speed showed 0 as soon as I stop. With the G4X, it seems like it takes "a second" before it registers 0.
Your documentation is usually absolutely on point, but this is unfortunately missing as far as I can find
The only reference to this input Filtering I've seen is in the VVT Settings page, which I have completely ignored until now, as my engine doesn't have VVT!
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I too am getting really "noisy" speed signals on my G4X
I'm using M8 hall-effect sensors, one picking up from the back of the wheel hub on the front driven wheels, and one on the prop->diff bolts for the driving wheel speed.
Exactly the same hardware, exactly the same wiring, but with the G4+ I had before...
(As an aside, I get really confused with the "Driven" and "Driving" terminology in the G4X, and have to really think about which is which, "Driven" and "Non Driven" was much easier!)
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To edit E-Throttle settings, such as number of active tables, you have to specifically set the E-Throttle Mode from "On" to "Setup"
Make your changes (setting Active Tables to 2, and set the Activation parameters), and then set E-Throttle Mode back to "On"
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As you have a Thunder, you'll want to use Digital Input 11-16, as these are capable of 6500Hz input.
Can't advise on the rest, I'm afraid!
Pressure sensors not reading
in G4x
Posted
Stupid thought, you've definitely got the sensors wired the correct way round? Some wiring diagrams show the pins as looking into the connector, some as looking into the sensor itself - it's quite easy on a 3 pin sensor like this to get a couple of the pins the wrong way round.
For the same issue to show itself on two sensors - the chances of both sensors being dead seem low - more likely is the same wiring fault applied to both of them.