TPS Calibration issues

[ScherzDaddy]

3 hours ago, Adamw said:

You look like you have everything you need to make it run now.  It looks like possibly too much fuel as the start attempt where you had the throttle WOT the RPM picked up like it almost started.  What size injectors does it have?

stock 370cc Toyota injectors. Everything seems to be right and it tries to fire but never actually starts and idles. I know it's too much fuel because it smells horribly of raw fuel when trying to start. switching the fuel off pump and holding it WOT it will try to start.

[Adamw]

You can try reducing fuel by reducing your master fuel setting, Although in the map you attached it doesnt look too far off what I would expect for stock injectors.  It is worth a try though.  

[0x33]

For a lot of cars I sometimes set up a flood clear mode if it's prone to being senstive to flooding. Saves me having to get the plugs out and clean them whilst trying to set it up for the first time. 

Go to Crank Enrichment settings, enable the 3D crank enrichment setting. Then setup your crank enrichment settings to something like this:

Now whilst you crank if you think you are overfueling then you can go 100% throttle and it won't inject anymore, and usually engine will start. You can even modulate the throttle and see where the engine is most happy to start, and figure out from that I've your settings are too rich or too lean. 

Link Staff: Can cranking floodclear option be put on requested features, bit annoying to have to use a 3D table to make this happen, especially when working with multifuel. 

[ScherzDaddy]

So I was able to work with a friend on my no start issue, and we were able to get it to start, but we had to pull 30% fuel from the master fuel trim. Weird thing is, once it starts, its going way lean. I've attached the current map and the log of the car running. 

Two issues we have, in addition to the one above...

1. The idle surges, which we believe to be a vacuum leak, which I am going to try and sort out.

2. we cant get the TPS to read low enough for the ecu to actually try and control the idle. It constantly reads 7% regardless what we do. Even when we manually checked the voltage at closed throttle (which was .55v) and change the closed throttle value in the ECU, to .55,(or any other value) it immediately changes to 7% throttle again.

Questions are, will the vacuum leak cause issues with the tps? is there something that needs to be adjusted on the throttle body for idle also? 

4_25_2021 idle surges.pclx idle log 4_25.llgx

[Adamw]

The surging is overrun fuel cut turning on off.  Either turn it off or adjust the deactivation to something like below as a closer starting point:

 

The high idle is because of a few factors, mostly the base position table is set up with numbers in it more suitable for an idle valve rather than e-throttle.

Change all the settings below in orange to match mine and it will be closer.

[Adamw]

On 4/23/2021 at 9:58 PM, Lloret said:

Hi Adam, I am attaching the map. Anyway, in this capture in on-setup mode you can see how the status of A-10 E-throttle (+) and 
(-) appear as disconnected when they really are, since they feed the ETB motor and this working. When we connect the ON mode the 
relay is turned off and de Aux 9/10 too.
Thanks greetings

23-04.pclr 162.75 kB · 1 download

Sorry for the slow reply.  It took me a while to set up a test to duplicate your set up on the bench.  However, today I have done that and I have no problem.  My E-throttle continues to work in ON mode, I donot get CAN timeout error and E-throttle relay stays engaged.

I can only assume either your CAN device is not sending regular packets or is slow to boot up etc.  For my test I was just sending data at 10ms intervals (100Hz) with a CAN sniffing tool.  

 

[ScherzDaddy]

4 hours ago, Adamw said:

The surging is overrun fuel cut turning on off.  Either turn it off or adjust the deactivation to something like below as a closer starting point:

 

The high idle is because of a few factors, mostly the base position table is set up with numbers in it more suitable for an idle valve rather than e-throttle.

Change all the settings below in orange to match mine and it will be closer.

Thanks for the reply Adam. I will make the changes today and let you know how it goes. 

[oscar]

On 4/26/2021 at 11:18 AM, Adamw said:

Sorry for the slow reply.  It took me a while to set up a test to duplicate your set up on the bench.  However, today I have done that and I have no problem.  My E-throttle continues to work in ON mode, I donot get CAN timeout error and E-throttle relay stays engaged.

I can only assume either your CAN device is not sending regular packets or is slow to boot up etc.  For my test I was just sending data at 10ms intervals (100Hz) with a CAN sniffing tool.  

 

Thanks a lot Adam, finally we have got it to work. The problem was with the script that send the messages with CAN bus to the ECU. Until a target position was not selected, the script wasn't sending any message, so the ECU detected that.

Finally, we would like to know if there is a way to change the Electronic Throttle Mode by sending a CAN message, or, how could it be changed automatically, not by hand?

Thanks again.

[ScherzDaddy]

On 4/26/2021 at 8:12 AM, ScherzDaddy said:

Thanks for the reply Adam. I will make the changes today and let you know how it goes. 

As of yesterday, the car starts and idles decent. I'm going to get a few other things buttoned up and I think I can get the car to the tuner

 

Thanks to @Adamw and others for your help!