G4X TST205 Ecu running a 4age Silvertop with LS1 map

[Simon Trent]

Installed this 3sgte Gen3 pnp ecu to run my 4age silvertop and later my 7age that I'm building. I also plan to install a set of 1nzfe coils using the standard 4age 20v hal sensors for crank timing. The 7age will be dyno tuned so the warn out 4a is being used as a test mule. Currently the engine runs and can be road tuned and i have seen a nice increase in power over the stock 4age blacktop A/T ecu I had used for 8 years.

A small issue I am having is the speed sensor is reading the correct speed but it constantly jumps up to 65535, I have done some digging and asking and a pull-up resister is recommended for that issue.

Next small issue is the VVT, I'm currently using the same pin for VVT control, reprogramming the FPR to a VVT but not knowing how the VVT settings work in the laptop software I have programmed a Tvis into a makeshift VVT having the VVT come on either at 35% throttle or 5000 rpm. i would hope there is a better way to do this because the factory VVT control is activated depending on a rpm/TPS chart. Note: it has been nice for a few autocross events to lock the VVT into a 2300 RPM activation so the VVT pulley isn't being cycled over and over during a autocross run thus saving wear on the VVT pulley.

Now for the major problem I'm having, the crank angle reading is intermittingly dropping to 0 rpm and going into a safe mode for 10 sec or so where the engine is idled up and timing is fixed at 10 degrees. This is making road tuning very difficult because when the timing locks 10 degrees fuel tuning is impossible to get right. I have read that maybe a pull-up or pull-down resister might fix this problem but wanting to get some expert help before i mess something up.

Optional request: Below is a picture of the stock wire harness for the 1nzfe coils, I would like to have some help on the best way to install these onto the ecu to run them. I'm hopping to have them working for dynoing the 7age.

Also any recommendations on what spark plugs to use with my 7age, lightly ported head, 11.2 compression 93 oct fuel stock cams. This isn't a max power high rpm build, i just wanted a refreshed 4a and a very nice 7a kinda dropped into my lap so more cubes doesn't hurt.

fuel table tps ignition.pclx

[Adamw]

4 hours ago, Simon Trent said:

A small issue I am having is the speed sensor is reading the correct speed but it constantly jumps up to 65535, I have done some digging and asking and a pull-up resister is recommended for that issue.

Unlikely related to the pull-up.  What type of sensor is it?  You will probably need to connect an oscilloscope to see what is wrong with trhe signal.

 

4 hours ago, Simon Trent said:

Next small issue is the VVT, I'm currently using the same pin for VVT control, reprogramming the FPR to a VVT but not knowing how the VVT settings work in the laptop software I have programmed a Tvis into a makeshift VVT having the VVT come on either at 35% throttle or 5000 rpm. i would hope there is a better way to do this because the factory VVT control is activated depending on a rpm/TPS chart. Note: it has been nice for a few autocross events to lock the VVT into a 2300 RPM activation so the VVT pulley isn't being cycled over and over during a autocross run thus saving wear on the VVT pulley.

Dont over think it, optimum valve timing is mostly related to RPM - you are wave tuning and the frequency is a direct effect of RPM.  The factory may have used a 3D table for emmisions or pumping loss reduction, but it is not needed for best performance.  I have tuned 4 or 5 20V 4AGE and all of them have wanted something very close to below for the cam switch points.  The 0.2s off delay is the hysteresis to prevent it rapidly cycling on/off.

 

 

4 hours ago, Simon Trent said:

Now for the major problem I'm having, the crank angle reading is intermittingly dropping to 0 rpm and going into a safe mode for 10 sec or so where the engine is idled up and timing is fixed at 10 degrees. This is making road tuning very difficult because when the timing locks 10 degrees fuel tuning is impossible to get right. I have read that maybe a pull-up or pull-down resister might fix this problem but wanting to get some expert help before i mess something up.

Will need to see a log and tune and a triggerscope taken at around the same RPM this trigger error occurs at.

[Simon Trent]

6 hours ago, Adamw said:

Unlikely related to the pull-up.  What type of sensor is it?  You will probably need to connect an oscilloscope to see what is wrong with the signal.

The signal comes from the MR2/AW11 dash cluster that is being driven from a cable from the transmission, it was recommended to use a pull-up becuae the stock 4a 20v ecu apparently has it built into the ecu

6 hours ago, Adamw said:

 

Dont over think it, optimum valve timing is mostly related to RPM - you are wave tuning and the frequency is a direct effect of RPM.  The factory may have used a 3D table for emmisions or pumping loss reduction, but it is not needed for best performance.  I have tuned 4 or 5 20V 4AGE and all of them have wanted something very close to below for the cam switch points.  The 0.2s off delay is the hysteresis to prevent it rapidly cycling on/off.

Yeah it will be a lot easier to dial that in when I get the 7a on a dyno. have you found the fuel consumption can be better having the VVT off on highway cruising? To get to events I travel like 2 1/2 hours and fuel economy is important for that reason. 

6 hours ago, Adamw said:

Will need to see a log and tune and a triggerscope taken at around the same RPM this trigger error occurs at.

It does it at idle and 3500 rpm and lower, and when you first touch the throttle it does it. also at idle when its doing it, it seems to do it in a pattern about 4 or 5 times then stop doing it until I touch the throttle again.

[Adamw]

6 hours ago, Simon Trent said:

have you found the fuel consumption can be better having the VVT off on highway cruising

no.

 

6 hours ago, Simon Trent said:

It does it at idle and 3500 rpm and lower, and when you first touch the throttle it does it. also at idle when its doing it, it seems to do it in a pattern about 4 or 5 times then stop doing it until I touch the throttle again.

You still can do a trigger scope at the RPM it occurs at tho?  

[Simon Trent]

10 hours ago, Adamw said:

You still can do a trigger scope at the RPM it occurs at tho?  

i can probably get a scope to test it. I did talk to a retired toyota tech and he recommended checking all the wires going to the distributor. he thinks there could be a corroded wire that is giving a weak 5v. said he has seen it before. 

[Adamw]

Yeah sounds like the tech really knows what he is on about, the toyota distributor is a reluctor, it doesnt even have a 5V supply.

Please just do the scope as requested, it will take you all of 30 seconds and will likely show us if it is a wiring issue or settings issue.  

With the engine running and laptop connected, go to >ecu controls>trigger scope and click capture, then save.  

[Simon Trent]

13 hours ago, Adamw said:

Yeah sounds like the tech really knows what he is on about, the toyota distributor is a reluctor, it doesnt even have a 5V supply.

Please just do the scope as requested, it will take you all of 30 seconds and will likely show us if it is a wiring issue or settings issue.  

With the engine running and laptop connected, go to >ecu controls>trigger scope and click capture, then save.  

oh I didnt know the ecu could do that. This stuff is very new to me. 

[Simon Trent]

here is a log and trigger scope

TriggerScopeLog.llgx PC_Datalog_-_2021-08-10_84540_pm.llgx

[Simon]

Trigger scope signal to me looks good. 

But the log is showing the trig 1 error counter jumping up to 5 at the point of the miss.

Assuming the trigger scope was done at idle You could raise your arming voltages 

I would also check the plugs are resistive, leads are 100% (no suspect crimps or wire damage) check the cap and rotor for any signs of tracking.

[Simon Trent]

 

15 hours ago, Simon said:

Trigger scope signal to me looks good. 

But the log is showing the trig 1 error counter jumping up to 5 at the point of the miss.

Assuming the trigger scope was done at idle You could raise your arming voltages 

I would also check the plugs are resistive, leads are 100% (no suspect crimps or wire damage) check the cap and rotor for any signs of tracking.

Yes the log and scope were at idle.

Going to try those settings tonight if I can get home at a decent time, been filling in for the painter at work thats on vacation. 

What do you mean by tracking? 

[Simon Trent]

A new problem I have found. The ignition angle is stuck at 10 degrees after startup for exactly 10 sec everytime the car is started.

[Simon Trent]

I changed the ignition idle target to 25 degrees to get good idle at startup after 10 seconds it goes to its normal ignition of around 26 degrees. I wonder if this is a product of changing to a tps based ignition table.

[Vaughan]

25 minutes ago, Simon Trent said:

A new problem I have found. The ignition angle is stuck at 10 degrees after startup for exactly 10 sec everytime the car is started.

If you attach a copy of the log I should be able to tell you exactly what it is but it is most likely ignition idle as @Simon Trent pointed out

[ClintBHP]

Your idle target wants to be around 10 degrees and stay there, if its idling too slow try adding air.

My method, fix ignition at 10 degrees set the idle valve to minimum clamp, adjust the idle bypass valve to around 50rpm less that the idle target.

[essb00]

16 hours ago, Simon Trent said:

A new problem I have found. The ignition angle is stuck at 10 degrees after startup for exactly 10 sec everytime the car is started.

ECU is using the Ignition Idle Target (fixed) during startup sequence, then use Idle Ignition Control as part of Idle Actuator control PID to correct small deviations from target idle deadband.

[Simon Trent]

going to try those settings this week. car is on jack stands with a noisesy gearbox. time to pull it for the 7age. getting a e51 rebuilt for it. i have been very pleased on the power gains over the stock ecu.