truekid Posted October 25, 2022 Report Share Posted October 25, 2022 Hello, To start, I am fairly new to this so please excuse the attached diagram. I am looking for any advise if my diagram is incorrect. I would like to have the wiring all sorted out prior to getting to the dyno. Here is the current setup - LINK CAM LAMBDA Module o Will use designated 12v (Switched) for power, and use CAN 1 (L/H) for the communication bus - LINK 52MM gauge o Will use designated 12v (Switched) for power, and use CAN 1 (L/H) for the communication bus - GM Flex fuel o Will use designated 12v (Switched) for power o Use the XS Expansion loom for GND, and DI8 for Signal from the sensor - AEM Boost Controller o Will use designated 12v (Switched) for power o Wire in AUX 7 (Pin 11) on main ECU Connector (Is this correct?) - Two 525 Pumps o I have relays for both pumps and would like to stage it o Pump 1 can use the Aux 8 PIN 1 to send the signal to the relay to turn on o Pump 2 I am not sure which Aux or Pin to use to stage this? ANY OTHER ADIVE OR INPUT IS GREAT APPRCIATED. TIA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koracing Posted October 25, 2022 Report Share Posted October 25, 2022 Aux 7 should work fine for boost control on the 'ground' side of the solenoid. On the main ecu header you have Ignition 7 (air con compressor) and ignition 8 (Purge solenoid) that could be used for the second pump. If they aren't being used for other things they could be used for trigger the second pump relay. To stage it you would just set the second pump to be controlled via a GP output and then set the parameters you would want to use - usually a combination of map level, rpm, and primary injector duty cycle for example. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted October 25, 2022 Report Share Posted October 25, 2022 Note you can connect all CAN devices to the same bus, dont need 2 separate buses. As well as the options KO mentioned, Aux 4 may be another option for the 2nd pump - the fuel consumption signal is only specifically needed for the auto trans models (obviously gauge on dash wont work without it though). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
truekid Posted October 25, 2022 Author Report Share Posted October 25, 2022 @koracing Thanks for the info. Thats what I figured. I do use the Purge solnoid, and using AC compressor, so I might have use @Adamw stated. Are there any other available pins that aren't used? Do you guys recommend re-pinning the at the plug, or just splicing the wires in? Thanks for the responses! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koracing Posted October 25, 2022 Report Share Posted October 25, 2022 I think most of your other pins aren't going to be good to use for that purpose, or are for features you should be using still. Repinning at the plug is up to you and your skill level. Cutting a wire 3-4" out from the the plug and making a good butt crimp connection should work and be at just about anyone's skill level. Use a decent tool specific to the job and not pliers for crimping if you go that route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
truekid Posted November 3, 2022 Author Report Share Posted November 3, 2022 @koracing Thanks. For staging the pump I think I will just use the Fuel MPG pin. I also wanted to add: - Fuel Pressure sensor - Oil pressure sensor - Oil temp sensor. Could I fit all of those on the expansion loom? as well as the flex fuel sensor? If so which ports. Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koracing Posted November 3, 2022 Report Share Posted November 3, 2022 The expansion header on the E36 Link plug in as two analog inputs, and two temp inputs so you should be good there. You'll need to split the ground from the expansion to your temp sensor, and both pressure sensors, and the +5v to both pressure sensors. Here's an example of a modified expansion loom (starting from the Link XSL loom) where I've split the ground 4 ways and the +5v to 3 of the 4 connectors: Then I create sub harnesses from the 3 pin Deutsch DTM connectors out to the individual sensors. In your case I would do a couple 3 pin for the pressure sensors and a 2 pin for the temp sensor unless you're planning to use something like the Bosch pressure/temp combination sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
truekid Posted November 24, 2022 Author Report Share Posted November 24, 2022 @koracing Great news! I was able to make this harness as well and all but one sensor are working correctly. I think my DELPHI IAT sensor is messed up. I am using Signal wire, and Signal GND on the ecu. But still reading wrong. I am not sure if I need 5v for this sensor and signal, but will check the diagram. Also can you or @Adamw help me with my fuel issue? Car runs and drives fine, I am working on chasing some small issues with the tune. I can drive it at the moment but it dies sometimes when I clutch in. Is there an Idle control map that I should try to mess with? My first fuel issue PIN 1 on the ecu is AUX 8, that is what I am using as a trigger wire for my first pump relay. What I did was I cut it at the ECU connector and added my trigger wire. I left the factory wire capped off. The fuel pump doesnt work correct, and will only prime for a few seconds, but as soon as the car starts, the fuel pump shuts off. What I tried is that I installed everything the way it was originally and then just used the factory fuel pump connector, and pulled my trigger from that connector located under the back seat. I am not sure why my pump doesnt work if I just add my wire at the ECU connector ? Any thoughts? Any idea how to use AUX 4 (Fuel consumption) to trigger the 2nd pump? Just want to have all these issues sorted out before I take it to the dyno. I attached the PC Datalog and tune I have if needed. Thanks for all your help PC Datalog - 2022-11-23 9;53;03 pm.llgx E36_M3_v6_BIGDAWG.pclx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lourens0084 Posted November 24, 2022 Report Share Posted November 24, 2022 Can someone please assist me with the wiring colours on the Ecu for a Ford Banatam 2009 model 1.6 Rocam engine. The ecu is a motronic bosch connector number 1928404582 81 pins. I cannot find the wiring diagrams for this model ford anywhere and no-one at Ford is able to assist me. I have been without my car for almost a year now so im desperate. Please i beg you for assistance? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dx4picco Posted November 25, 2022 Report Share Posted November 25, 2022 For the IAT, what is the resistance you see between the two pins at abient temperature? Wiring is correct according to what you say. Pull up is on? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
truekid Posted November 27, 2022 Author Report Share Posted November 27, 2022 @dx4picco I see 4.6 Kohm, which is off. I got it to read correctly but as soon as I started the car it went to 158* which is completely off. I need to do some more checks, but I am using the factory IAT sensor for now to continue to figure out the rest of the tune - Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
truekid Posted March 1, 2023 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2023 Hey Guys, its been a while, and I finally got the car back together after having to take it apart again. I have had this issue that I cannot resolve. I have my own relays for the fuel pumps, and am using PIN 1(AUX 8) and PIN 46 (AUX 4) for my primary and secondary signal wire to my relays. What is happening at the moment is that during ignition 2, the primary pump comes on, after I start the car it shuts off. Once the car dies, I can hear the pump coming back on. I am not sure if there is something I am missing. It should function the same. I still have the factory relay in place. Maybe that needs to get removed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted March 1, 2023 Report Share Posted March 1, 2023 What is "ignition 2", is this the key position where everything is powered up and the engine will run? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
truekid Posted March 1, 2023 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2023 6 minutes ago, Adamw said: What is "ignition 2", is this the key position where everything is powered up and the engine will run? Ignition 2 is right before starting the car. Pump kicks on and stays running. Once I start the car the pump stops. Eventually the car dies and the pump kicks back on after. It's as if it will not run once the engine is running. And only runs when the key is on but engine isn't running Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted March 1, 2023 Report Share Posted March 1, 2023 Can you attach a copy of the tune. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
truekid Posted March 1, 2023 Author Report Share Posted March 1, 2023 Here you are SE-E36_M3-VANOS_1300cc-FF-BASE-REV_1 (4).pclx Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted March 1, 2023 Report Share Posted March 1, 2023 Ok I dont see much wrong in there, Aux 8 shows it was active with the engine idling when you last saved that map. So I would be looking more towards the power supply side of the relay. With the ignition on, engine off, do the correct pumps run when you put aux 4 or 8 into test mode? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
truekid Posted March 2, 2023 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2023 10 minutes ago, Adamw said: Ok I dont see much wrong in there, Aux 8 shows it was active with the engine idling when you last saved that map. So I would be looking more towards the power supply side of the relay. With the ignition on, engine off, do the correct pumps run when you put aux 4 or 8 into test mode? This might be odd, but is Aux 8 a ground signal to the relay? I may have this backwards Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koracing Posted March 2, 2023 Report Share Posted March 2, 2023 You have Aux8 set to operate as active low and low side drive so grounding when it's active. You can try changing it to high side drive and/or active state high and see if it operates opposite. The Base map from link for the E36 is set to low as the active state and low side drive on Aux 8 as well. With key on and engine off does the pump 1 run continuously? Small note: I would personally set an off delay on Aux 4 - fuel pump 2 by something like .5-1 second so when it activates or your boost is running right near 220kpa map you aren't clicking the power to the pump off and on rapidly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
truekid Posted March 2, 2023 Author Report Share Posted March 2, 2023 I figured it out. The Ecu only sends grounds signals, and not 12volt. I had my relays wired for a 12volt trigger signal to turn the fuel pump on. That was the issue with the fuel pump. @koracing thanks will try that! Thank you guys for all the help! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koracing Posted March 3, 2023 Report Share Posted March 3, 2023 23 hours ago, truekid said: I figured it out. The Ecu only sends grounds signals, and not 12volt. I had my relays wired for a 12volt trigger signal to turn the fuel pump on. That was the issue with the fuel pump. @koracing thanks will try that! Thank you guys for all the help! The ecu can send 12 volt if active state and output mode were set to high. This is true on Aux 5, 6, 7, and 8. From the help in the software on wiring auxiliary outputs: I wouldn't do much more than trigger a relay with this high side drive output as I'm sure max continuous current ability isn't going to be much, but it can do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
truekid Posted March 8, 2023 Author Report Share Posted March 8, 2023 Hey @Adamwans @koracing my base timing while cranking is about 20* advance. Am i to make it 0 to ensure its tdc when cylinder 1 fires? Do i use the calibration menu and change the offset (option 2) to correct it? TIA Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dx4picco Posted March 9, 2023 Report Share Posted March 9, 2023 "lock ignition timing to" depends on where your pulley marking is. then you change the 2) to get the real life value matching what you put in 1) koracing 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koracing Posted March 9, 2023 Report Share Posted March 9, 2023 With the settings shown - and while that calibration window is open (which is what locks the timing to the first option) - you will adjust option 2 (hitting enter after making a change to the value) until the timing matches that in option 1. Most engines should have a 0 mark or TDC mark, but it can vary with manufacturer. Also be careful if you're using a timing light with an advance knob or the ability to dial in advance into the light as these can confuse matters if they aren't zeroed out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
truekid Posted March 13, 2023 Author Report Share Posted March 13, 2023 AHHH! Did not realize I needed to keep the window open during checking! that was my problem all along. You have to keep the window open so the ECU ignores the other maps. I am spot on. Thanks for all help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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