Where do I start

[Fintank11]

Hi Guys,

I’ve just finished my wiring loom on my 1997 Nissan Micra with a Link AtomG4X ecu. I have the ecu connected to pc but I have two issues.

 

1. Every time I crank the car it disconnects from the ecu from pc?

2. Theres no base map in files for a Nissan Micra so where do I start about getting it started or a base map? 
 

spec is 

4 cylinder NA firing order 1342

33-1 trigger wheel crank

honda k20 coilpacks

link can lambda 

honda cbr itbs with tps & injectors

link iat

link oil pressure sensor

nissan coolant temp sensor

 

Thanks in advance 

 

 

[David Ferguson]

For engine startup, it's a good idea to have the battery on a charger, and maybe an additional jumper battery for extra current while cranking.   Another trick for initial cranking (to verify that crank & cam signals are reading), is to remove the spark plugs for cranking.    Verify that all sensors are giving reasonable values (ie, TPS calibrated, iat & coolant temp read ambient.    Crank engine and observe oil pressure reading.   Are you getting a reasonable cranking RPM (200-400 RPM plugs out), probably 150 or greater when plugs in.

[Fintank11]

Yes I have a battery charger on the battery reading 100% and new battery. I’m just conscious that I’ve wired my 14+ from a relay triggered by ignition switch which turns off when key is off. Should the ecu be getting battery voltage instead ? 

Also , the car only has a crank sensor as no cam sensor. The crank sensor has also been added to the car so I need to tell the ecu where the offset of sensor is for tdc ?

[Adamw]

23 hours ago, Fintank11 said:

Every time I crank the car it disconnects from the ecu from pc?

Then you have a wiring issue.  The G4X wont disconnect until supply voltage is less than about 6V.  It is never going to start if the ecu is shutting down. Possibly you are wired to an ACC circuit instead of IGN?

 

23 hours ago, Fintank11 said:

33-1 trigger wheel crank

Are you sure?  That would be very unusual and is not really a suitable tooth count, 360 should divide evenly into the tooth count.  

 

For the base map, start with the 4AGE map attached, reassign all the inputs and outputs to match your wiring and sensor calibrations etc, change trigger settings and set base timing, then it should be close enough to run.

New 4age20v.pclx

[Fintank11]

@Adamw sorry it was a typo error it has a 36-1 trigger wheel. I only got the wiring finished yesterday and spent an hour messing around. Will check the acc or ignition feed to ecu. So the ecu doesn’t need a second power to keep it powered on cranking ? 
 

also how do I set base timing through the ecu? I have a trigger lamp but as car is coil pack now and not ht lead how do I set that? 
 

also would you know correct pin out for k20 coilpacks to check if I have it wired correctly 

 

thanks for attaching that. I will give it a go tomorrow evening.

 

 

 

[Vaughan]

3 hours ago, Fintank11 said:

also how do I set base timing through the ecu? I have a trigger lamp but as car is coil pack now and not ht lead how do I set that? 

Use an HT lead between the coil pack and the spark plug, I'm not familiar with the K20 coils but with toyota cops removing the rubber boot usually makes it easy to put an HT lead on.

[Adamw]

3 hours ago, Fintank11 said:

So the ecu doesn’t need a second power to keep it powered on cranking ?

No the main power wire should stay alive whenever the ignition switch is on.

 

You mentioned above you have a crank wheel only, for this to work with no sync your coils will need to be wired in wasted spark pairs, cyl 1 & 4 coil triggered by Ign 1, and cyl 2 & 3 to ign 2.  Set ignition mode to wasted spark. 

If you want to do direct spark you will either need a cam sensor or a MAP sensor connected to a single intake port.  

 

3 hours ago, Fintank11 said:

I have a trigger lamp but as car is coil pack now and not ht lead how do I set that?

Something like below.  This one is a proper extension lead but you can just use an old distributor lead or similar.  

 

[Fintank11]

Thanks guys for the responses, will be looking at the car this evening and see how I get on.

@Adamw do i need to rewire the coils or just set it to wasted spark ? 
 

also would anyone know k20 coil pin out and cbr tps pin out ? Just to be sure I’m right.

 

thanks 

 

 

[Fintank11]

@Adamw the link you attached for  4age doesn’t seem to work? I found one you sent somebody else a while ago but I think it’s set up for map sensor?

 

I wired ignition powder to ecu relay and all working perfect now and can see sensors reading. Just need to calibrate crank and should be good for a start. 
 

is there something I need to do to tell I’m starting for example to prime fuel pump? I can activate it through test function 

 

thanks

[Adamw]

4 hours ago, Fintank11 said:

the link you attached for  4age doesn’t seem to work?

It works for me, are you sure you were logged in when you tried?

 

9 hours ago, Fintank11 said:

do i need to rewire the coils or just set it to wasted spark ? 

The wiring is different as I already mentioned.

 

4 hours ago, Fintank11 said:

is there something I need to do to tell I’m starting for example to prime fuel pump? I can activate it through test function 

No, it will prime the fuel pump when ignition is switched on and the fuel pump will run when the ecu sees the crank turning.

[Fintank11]

Sorry for annoying you @Adamw but we are getting somewhere. So the crank is now picking up around 2-300 rpm , injector test works on all injectors as does ignition coils. I still need to rewire the coils. IAT and ECT are reading correct, oil pressure is getting up to 33psi on crank (should rise when idling) and TPS and fuel pump is working as should. So once I wire the ign coils correctly all that is left is to set the timing. I’ve turned it over and it gives a splutter so we are on the right track.

Need to check if my trigger lamp is working as didn’t seem to flash when connect to the car , will try on another car tomorrow. 
 

I’ve 3 questions you may be able to help on. 
 

when I crank the car a message pops up about a new ecu has been found with a different map ?

I have a red error fault for aux 2 for engine fan? Even with all the wires disconnected it is red ? I’ve told the ecu that the fan is aux 2 and still the fault.

and see attached photo about btdc if you can give me any direction to go with setting it up.

 

(Please note no lambda fitted yet)

thanks so much

[Adamw]

13 minutes ago, Fintank11 said:

when I crank the car a message pops up about a new ecu has been found with a different map ?

That would suggest you havent done a store and the ecu is losing power during cranking.  You will lose any changes if the ecu powers down when the settings haven't been stored.  So, do a store before cranking, and investigate the power loss.

 

15 minutes ago, Fintank11 said:

I have a red error fault for aux 2 for engine fan? Even with all the wires disconnected it is red ? I’ve told the ecu that the fan is aux 2 and still the fault.

Make sure you have the lastest firmware.  I think I remember this being in older firmware.

 

16 minutes ago, Fintank11 said:

and see attached photo about btdc if you can give me any direction to go with setting it up.

Not sure what the question is.  

[Fintank11]

@Adamw

Hi Adam, didn’t get much further this evening as I now have an oil pressure issue , no fault stored but since firmware update its reading 143 psi ? Is there something I need to change in settings ?  See attached
 

also when wiring wasted spark with k20 coils do I need an ignition or module inbetween or just splice ign 4 into ign1 and ign 3 into ign2 and set firing order to 1212 or still 1342.

 

thanks

[Adamw]

A firmware update is not going to affect oil pressure so most likely it is set up wrong or there is a wiring issue.  Attach a log and your tune and we might be able to give you a hint.  

For the coils, yes just wire them in pairs and set ignition mode to wasted spark.  Firing order doesnt change.  

 

[Fintank11]

@Adamw the oil pressure sensor was working perfectly yesterday and now not. It’s a link 10bar. I will attach a log file tomorrow and see what has happened.

In better news the engine started and idled, although rough as It needs adjusting on the timing side. 
 

when the car is idling what ignition angle should I be seeing 10 degree btdc?

[DerekAE86]

36 minutes ago, Fintank11 said:

when the car is idling what ignition angle should I be seeing 10 degree btdc?

You should read the helpfile about setting the base timing.
There is a procedure that will lock the timing so you can then change the offset to make the ECU and Timing Light match.

[Fintank11]

@DerekAE86 is this trigger calibrate ? I have it set at 10 degree btdc and 6 degree offset

[DerekAE86]

Yep. With that set to 10deg the timing light should also display 10deg. If he doesn't keep changing the offset until the timing light also shows 10deg.

[Fintank11]

@DerekAE86 the standard engine runs 15 +/- 2 degree BTDC. Is there a reason to change to 10 ? Just curious. Thanks

[essb00]

@Fintank11 you can set it to any target ignition timing. What's important there is that what you set would correspond to what you see with the timing marker with the timing light (e.g. you set 15° BTDC, then what you see in the timing light should also be 15° BTDC). You'd have to adjust the offset until they are equal.

[DerekAE86]

22 minutes ago, Fintank11 said:

@DerekAE86 the standard engine runs 15 +/- 2 degree BTDC. Is there a reason to change to 10 ? Just curious. Thanks

Setting it to 10 during the calibration means nothing more than locking it to a value that's easy to visually see on your crank pulley.
If you don't lock it it can jump around at idle and make it very difficult to sync what the ECU thinks the timing is vs what it actually is.

Also your view of the crank pulley may be obstructed by belts at certain angles making it impossible to read the marks at other values.

Once you save and exit the calibration your timing will return to the Ignition table values.

[Fintank11]

@essb00 I get you now. I had it at 10 btdc and offset 6 degree to have 10 degrees on crank and 10degree on pc. It ran using those figures.

@DerekAE86 thanks will update tonight with more work carried out.

 

@Adamw is it possible oil pressure sensor has changed settings snone where since I’ve uploaded a new map? Although I have configured it to analog volt 2. Very confused as it was working.

 

thanks

[DerekAE86]

5 minutes ago, Fintank11 said:

@Adamw is it possible oil pressure sensor has changed settings snone where since I’ve uploaded a new map? Although I have configured it to analog volt 2. Very confused as it was working.

If the Link 10bar sensor is reading 143.5psi it sounds like a wiring issue.
Check if you've accidently got 5v connected to AN2 instead of the signal.

[Fintank11]

@DerekAE86 the weird thing is it was working, as you can see in photo attached, I previously mentioned it was reading 30 psi/2 bar which is perfect for the micra engine. But now there is an issue. Will have to look further into it this eve. Should I be getting continuity through the wiring on 0v side to engine block ? 

[DerekAE86]

17 minutes ago, Fintank11 said:

Should I be getting continuity through the wiring on 0v side to engine block ? 

No.

PinA on Sensor -> "Gnd Out" Pin on the ECU (NOT CHASSIS / BLOCK GROUND!)
PinB on Sensor -> "+5v" Pin on the ECU
PinC on Sensor -> "An Volt 2" Pin on the ECU (If that's the input you want to use for your Oil Pressure)

https://dealers.linkecu.com/PS150

https://linkecu.com/documentation/AtomXQuickstartGuide.pdf