Where do I start

[Adamw]

12 hours ago, Adamw said:

Attach a log and your tune and we might be able to give you a hint.  

 

[Fintank11]

@DerekAE86 that’s the exact wiring I have , I was just wondering should show continuity to block. Will post results of multimeter this eve.

 

@Adamw will be uploading this tonight, thanks

[Fintank11]

@Adamw @DerekAE86 I have attached a log file. Can you give me some feedback/info on my trigger calibration. The car will run at 6 degree offset or -354. At 6 it is slightly erratic whereas -354 it is bang on 10 degrees at crank. Car dies every time I add some throttle. There is also a very strong smell of fuel. Do I need to set injection up as I only have crank trigger, tps & iat? As you can see when idling injection time is 400 btdc, surely this is wrong no?

 

I checked the wiring to oil pressure, if I earth multimeter at engine I get 4.97v at 5v pin, if I earth it at 0v pin I get 0.3v , nothing at signal wire. Any ideas?

Battery voltage issue is due to a faulty alternator which I will be replacing.

 

any updates pointers would be great, thanks 

Log 1.llgx

[craig903]

The injection timing of 400 degrees btdc is the pre-set figure in the link software, As far as I understand its referenced from the beginning of the power stroke. A full 360 degrees would then align it to the beginning of the intake stroke. Plus the additional 40 degrees. Your Injection Timing position is most likely set to end of injection so your injection would have finished by 40 degrees or 22% into the intake stroke which would typically be when the valve is fully open.

[essb00]

@Fintank11 Also attach the latest tune file you used to record that log.

[Fintank11]

@essb00 probably a silly question but how do I do that?

 

another thing I’ve noticed is, once trigger calibration is done the car sometimes revs up to 3500 rpm until I turn it off. Any ideas?

 

thanks 

[DerekAE86]

Just now, Fintank11 said:

@essb00 probably a silly question but how do I do that?

When you have your laptop connected to the ECU just go File -> Save to save the current tune in the ECU to the laptop.

2 hours ago, Fintank11 said:

The car will run at 6 degree offset or -354. At 6 it is slightly erratic whereas -354 it is bang on 10 degrees at crank.

I'm not sure what you mean by erratic. And it doesn't matter if the car "runs" or not.
The purpose of the calibration is to make what you see on the crank pulley with the timing light match what the calibration window in the Link says (be it 10deg or 15deg, or whatever arbitrary timing figure you've chosen) by shifting the offset.

You can't do this by "feel".

[Fintank11]

@DerekAE86 sorry i thought it was something completely different, i have attached it now.

 

Are you able to see why my fan on aux2 isnt working and oil pressure not working on it?

04.07 Micra.pclx

also to not my iat temps and ect temps. engine is cold and reading 30 degrees celcius. Could this just be the two pin plugs wired the wrong way around?

[Adamw]

1 hour ago, Fintank11 said:

Are you able to see why my fan on aux2 isnt working

Does it work when you set aux 2 test mode to ON?  If not you have a wiring issue.  

 

1 hour ago, Fintank11 said:

and oil pressure not working on it?

Your AN Volt 2 shows 4.36V on it, it should be 0.50V at zero pressure, so again it appears to be a wiring issue.

 

1 hour ago, Fintank11 said:

also to not my iat temps and ect temps. engine is cold and reading 30 degrees celcius. Could this just be the two pin plugs wired the wrong way around?

Polarity doesnt matter.  What temperature do you think it should be?  We dont know if you live in Russia or the Carribean so im not sure what a "cold" engine means to you.  You have ECT set to a Bosch calibration and the IAT set to the Link calibration, does this match what sensors you actually have?

[DerekAE86]

There seems to be a problem with the TPS signal too.

[Fintank11]

@Adamw yes I have tried the test function, but doesnt work. I am in Ireland so should be around 10 degrees in the evening time. Will recheck all this eve.

@DerekAE86 I didnt have a pinout for the honda cbr tps, I may have my wires mixed. Will check that this evening. I can only assume but maybe I have 5v on the ground pin which is spiking my iat & ect.

[DerekAE86]

3 hours ago, Fintank11 said:

 I didnt have a pinout for the honda cbr tps

Pretty easy to figure out a TPS without the pinout.

Using a multi-meter on ohms - with the power off; probe 2 pins until you find the 2 where the reading doesn't change when you open the throttle.
They will be Sensor 5v and Sensor GND. The final pin is the Signal.

Leave the black lead on one those pins and move the red lead to the final pin.
If the reading starts low and increases as you open the throttle - the black lead is on Sensor GND.
If the reading starts high and decreases as you open the throttle - the black lead is on Sensor 5v.

[Fintank11]

1 hour ago, DerekAE86 said:

Pretty easy to figure out a TPS without the pinout.

Using a multi-meter on ohms - with the power off; probe 2 pins until you find the 2 where the reading doesn't change when you open the throttle.
They will be Sensor 5v and Sensor GND. The final pin is the Signal.

Leave the black lead on one those pins and move the red lead to the final pin.
If the reading starts low and increases as you open the throttle - the black lead is on Sensor GND.
If the reading starts high and decreases as you open the throttle - the black lead is on Sensor 5v.

Will give this a go today. Can Lambda was ordered this morning and should arrive tomorrow. Will give a better log file when fitted. 

 

 

Thanks

[essb00]

You've got your 'Fuel Equation Mode' 'Load=MAP', but you do not have a MAP sensor connected. 'Fuel System Type' also set to 'MAP Referenced'...

Your TPS has 3.13V closed, 4,67V open. The range seem too narrow so fluctuating signal is really expected. Check the wiring again, then re-do TPS Setup.

[Fintank11]

@essb00 should it be set to bap? 

[essb00]

'Fuel Equation Mode' 'Load=BAP'
'Fuel System Type'  None - No FP Correction

[Fintank11]

4 hours ago, essb00 said:

'Fuel Equation Mode' 'Load=BAP'
'Fuel System Type'  None - No FP Correction

Ok few things I found out this evening. My TPS was wired incorrectly and is sorted now and i have set up load= bap. I thought I ordered a link IAT a few years back but it is an FAE 33160. Im not sure wether there is a calibration there to suit, I was messing around with calibrations and an external thermometer to gauge which suited it best but it is not close. ECT is a standard nissan micra one but again im unsure which calibration to use. I might just order link versions. Please note in log file attached ign timing going to RED minus numbers btdc. I have checked TDC with dial gauge and showing 10degrees on crank which I have calibrated to 355 degree offset, should it be 5 instead ??

 

any tips on the programming and log file would be appreciated as always.

Thanks

97LH3572 K11.pclx Log 2 06.07.23.llgx

[DerekAE86]

23 minutes ago, Fintank11 said:

I have checked TDC with dial gauge and showing 10degrees on crank which I have calibrated to 355 degree offset, should it be 5 instead ??

I'm confused here. Are you saying with the engine being turned over by hand when you find TDC with a dial gauge its actually 10deg on the crank pulley?
That doesn't sound right. TDC should obviously be 0. Are you using the correct pulley or front engine plastics for your engine?

I think you're still misunderstanding the point of the offset.
Setting the offset within the ECU is similar to setting the timing on a factory engine.
With the engine running and a timing light connected to cylinder #1's coil wiring and pointing at the crank pulley it will flash when cylinder #1 gets a spark signal.
You then have to adjust the timing to make that mark you see when the light flashes line up to what the ECU thinks it's sparking at.

On a factory ECU/Engine you can't change this in software - so to make the mark match you rotate the Distributor or Cam sensor to line it up to what the ECU is expecting. You said in the case of the Mirca that is 15deg.

But on the Link you can set the "expected" timing to anything during the calibration. If you set it to 10 and when the engine is running the timing light shows something other than 10 you increase or decrease the offset to make it match. No need to rotate the Dizzy or CAS.

[Fintank11]

@DerekAE86 I have attached the factory timing guide for this cg13de engine. It states tdc cylinder 1 is marked at 10 degree on crank.  And yes with dial guage inserted into cylinder 1 it maxed out at 10degree btdc.
 

yes I understand now that it’s a mode you put it in to allow it be set and adjusted. 
 

 

[DerekAE86]

45 minutes ago, Fintank11 said:

It states tdc cylinder 1 is marked at 10 degree on crank.

I don't see where it says to set it to 10deg? I wouldn't be trying to interpret a vague picture in that way.

TDC = 0, it can't be "Top Dead Centre" if it's 10deg off from centre can it?

[Fintank11]

7 hours ago, DerekAE86 said:

I don't see where it says to set it to 10deg? I wouldn't be trying to interpret a vague picture in that way.

TDC = 0, it can't be "Top Dead Centre" if it's 10deg off from centre can it?

@DerekAE86 I spoke with Nissan Micra rally specialist who supplied me the engine parts. The "10 degree" mark is actually TDC. He sets ignition timing to 15 degree BTDC. So you were right but is marked as 10. Also recommended running my fuel pressure at 50psi , currently at 43 psi as matched to link 4age map. I will carry out these corrections and see how it goes. Did you happen to have a look at the log file?

 

Thanks

[essb00]

Odd for the repair manual to call it TDC when it isn't the actual TDC and off by 10°...

Since you have it on wasted spark ignition, yeah it would start with either 360° or 0° offset (give or take a few degrees), but then your injection timing may be off by one revolution... So it is important that you get the proper trigger offset to let the ECU know if the TDC is actualy with cyl.1 on compression TDC or exhaust TDC.

Your TPS is still not correctly wired as I can see on the calibrated open/closed voltages.
Your oil pressure sensor does not have a selected calibration.

[Fintank11]

15 minutes ago, essb00 said:

Odd for the repair manual to call it TDC when it isn't the actual TDC and off by 10°...

Since you have it on wasted spark ignition, yeah it would start with either 360° or 0° offset (give or take a few degrees), but then your injection timing may be off by one revolution... So it is important that you get the proper trigger offset to let the ECU know if the TDC is actualy with cyl.1 on compression TDC or exhaust TDC.

Your TPS is still not correctly wired as I can see on the calibrated open/closed voltages.
Your oil pressure sensor does not have a selected calibration.

Is it just hearing by ear or if it runs or doesn’t if it’s on the right trigger offset or is there a proper way of knowing.

Ok, I did the checks Derek suggested and re pinned the plug to suit. There is a rattle in the Tps sensor so possible there’s an internal fault. What should it read with throttle fully open and closed  ignition on. 
 

Yes I have it off as I’m still trying to figure out why it stopped working.

 

Further update. I have spoke with him again and we figured out that I have it set to the wrong degree mark on crank pulley. Yes the timing is correct 2nd mark from left is Tdc 0 degree. I have been setting it 10degree on pc but it was actually at 0 degree tdc on crank when trigger light used. The marks go the opposite way. I will adjust it out to 15 degree btdc this evening and report back. All a learning curve.

thanks

[essb00]

@Fintank11 Hell no! Unless your ear or eye blinks could sync with the ignition, you can never get it right that way. You need to use a timing light as already mentioned last page. Trigger offset has to be precise in order for the ECU to work properly.

The difference in voltages for TPS open/closed would normally be at least 2.5 volts.

[Fintank11]

3 hours ago, essb00 said:

@Fintank11 Hell no! Unless your ear or eye blinks could sync with the ignition, you can never get it right that way. You need to use a timing light as already mentioned last page. Trigger offset has to be precise in order for the ECU to work properly.

The difference in voltages for TPS open/closed would normally be at least 2.5 volts.

Yeah I get what you mean. I set the ignition timing to 15 btdc and had the offset at +15 and -345 and both (without engine running) lined up perfect. The second I start the engine it wants to Rev up to around 3500. I was speaking with tuner and I’m going to order link tps, iat and ect to have no doubts about calibrations and values etc. Once I fit them and my link can lambda I’ll be back to post results, thanks for all the help so far.