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Fintank11

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2 hours ago, Fintank11 said:

I set the ignition timing to 15 btdc and had the offset at +15 and -345 and both (without engine running) lined up perfect.

This doesn't make sense. You can't set the offset with the engine off. It HAS to be running / idling to do it accurately.

You can "get it close" it by cranking the engine with the injectors turned off. But the final offset setting MUST be done with the engine running.

The reason your engine revs up to 3500rpm when it starts is probably due to a huge vacuum leak.
Do you have an Idle Control Valve that's partially open? Any Vac lines left disconnected? Are the throttles held open slightly? Idle screws too far open?

Your fuel table is also 65% in all cells. This is probably far too much fuel for Idle.
If your injector settings are correct you'll probably find fueling is closer to 30% for the idle zones.

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@Fintank11 What you set there based on the markers only while the engine is stopped is the 'static' timing - but that's only good to make the engine start. The set base timing steps no.2 & 3 you can never precisely do without the use of a timing light.

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Got to spend an hour or so this evening with the car. I’ve stopped the revving by slackening off the throttle stops allowing the car to idle at 1100rpm. Timing set to 15degrees btdc and trigger offset set to 360, the trigger light is then flashing at TDC 0 degrees but is showing 15 degrees BTDC on my digital gauge on pclink. If i go +/- 5,10,15 offset or +/- 345,350,355 it just moves the trigger light further ATDC. Anyone any suggestions ? I’ve read the crank trigger could be wired opposite. I’m using a cosworth vr reluctor sensor and the black wire from trigger 1 is going to the positive marked on sensor. Is this correct ?

just to note when the timing is set to 15 degrees btdc and offset 360 the car idles excellent although the light shows 0 degree tdc

 

thanks

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7 minutes ago, Fintank11 said:

If i go +/- 5,10,15 offset or +/- 345,350,355 it just moves the trigger light further ATDC.

That doesn't make sense. If it goes more atdc one way, using the opposite polarity should make it go the other way.

Offset can be -360 to +360

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Firstly you have no cam sensor and are running wasted spark so 0 offset is the same as -360 or +360.  So if it already runs with the offset at 0 then you should only need a small adjustment either side of zero to get the correct timing.  Increasing the offset number will advance the spark and decreasing will retard.  

Do you have the timing light connected to an HT lead between the coil and spark plug?  Is it a non-advance timing light?  With the set base timing screen open so the timing is locked, if you rev the engine does the timing mark stay relatively still or does it drift off the mark significantly (say more than 3deg)?  Are you hitting enter when you change the offset and the numbers turn blue?

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@Adamw so I’ve figured out why it’s revving. When I open the calibrate menu the car instantly shoots up to approx 3000 rpm before I make any adjustment but when I exit the menu it idles around 1100. There is not vacuum leaks on throttle bodies as i pressure tested them. 
 

any ideas ?

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I don't have access to a computer to see what your tune is currently set to, but try making your Ignition 1 table all 15deg around the Idle cells (including and above 3000rpm). I suspect this will also cause the engine to rev up.

Then go to your Fuel 1 table and decrease the fuel until the revs drop down again. You may also have to adjust throttle idle screws or air bypass screws to decrease the idle.

Once it's sitting steady at a more believable idle RPM then go back to the calibration menu and do the timing offset calibration.

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4 hours ago, Fintank11 said:

When I open the calibrate menu the car instantly shoots up to approx 3000 rpm before I make any adjustment but when I exit the menu it idles around 1100.

I assume you mean the set base timing tool?  That would be expected behaviour because when you open that screen the timing is locked to whatever you have set in the "lock timing to" field at the top.  The ecu can no longer control idle speed with ignition timing when you have locked the timing.  

 

You didnt answer any of these:

22 hours ago, Adamw said:

Do you have the timing light connected to an HT lead between the coil and spark plug?  Is it a non-advance timing light?  With the set base timing screen open so the timing is locked, if you rev the engine does the timing mark stay relatively still or does it drift off the mark significantly (say more than 3deg)?  Are you hitting enter when you change the offset and the numbers turn blue?

 

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@Adamwsorry, yes timing light is connected to cyl 1 lead between coil and plug. It’s a non advance timing light. If I attempt to Rev the car it turns off. Yes I am hitting enter each time. Something else I’ve noticed, if I leave the car over night day and come back to it , it won’t start until I plug pc in and connect ? It’s like as if it’s losing its memory like a radio would.

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