SteveS Posted December 4, 2023 Report Share Posted December 4, 2023 I'm a newbie to engine tuning and am after some help. I have a mid-engine Stratos replica with an Alfa Romeo 3.0L 12valve V6. It ran fine for many years on the original AFM, distributor, coil until it didn't. Rather than spend money on new but old Alfa parts I decided to spend probably several times that on a link Storm ECU. Over the last couple of years, I have rewired it by following the link manual and tips from this forum. The result is as pictured. Note the e-throttle, cam sensor, R8 coils etc. During this "learning process" I created a base map just for testing the injectors, coils, sensor connectivity, fuel pump priming, trigger signals etc. When I crank the engine there are no apparent errors. I went this way simply because there is no listed basemap for this old fairly basic engine. I am at the point now where I would like some help to either edit my file or load and modify a suitable basemap and start the thing. I have yet to build a proper exhaust for it so I would like to get it running i.e. drivable, build another exhaust and then get it dyno tuned in the New Year. I can't easily take the car to anyone and wonder if this can be done remotely. I am open to all suggestions. Thanks Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dx4picco Posted December 4, 2023 Report Share Posted December 4, 2023 You may post the basemap you made so that we can look at it. having a triggerscope made and posted may help check the trigger parameters and knowing the injector size may be useful to have a the parameter in fuel setup correct. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveS Posted December 4, 2023 Author Report Share Posted December 4, 2023 Thank you, much appreciated. Attached is the file I started. Injector flow rate is 189.2 cc/min Stratos #1.pclr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveS Posted December 9, 2023 Author Report Share Posted December 9, 2023 Sorry for the delay, life sometimes gets in the way. The engine specs are, Alfa Romeo, 12 valve V6. 2,959cc, 10:1 compression, firing order is 1 4 2 5 3 6. Sensors fittex are Inlet temp, MAP, Cam position (single point), Crank position, TPS, APS, Water Temp, O2 sensor (is what was fitted to the car which may not be wideband). No idle control valve fitted. Attached is a first trigger scope log. Thanks Regards Steve Trigger Scope Log 2023-12-9 1;53;37 pm.llg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted December 12, 2023 Report Share Posted December 12, 2023 I have made a few adjustments as a better starting point. Note your MAP sensor calibration is wrong so that needs to be confirmed, it should read the same as BAP when the engine is off. IAT and ECT are reading a little different which may suggest one has a different cal. It looks like your APS is possibly wired wrong as they both show near zero volts. TPS needs to be calibrated. The narrowband O2 wont be useful for tuning. The file you attached above is not a triggerscope file, it is just a normal PC log, so cant help much with that but the RPM shows correctly in the log so the trigger setup is likely correct. Im assuming you have already set the base timing? If there are no signs of life when you attempt to start with this map, then change the trigger offset by 360 and try again. Stratos #2.pclr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveS Posted December 13, 2023 Author Report Share Posted December 13, 2023 Hi Adam Thank you. Have corrected the MAP sensor calibration was set as 4bar when it should be 2.5 no identical to BAP. IAT and ECT are now the same, used 10k pullup. It looks like your APS is possibly wired wrong as they both show near zero volts. TPS needs to be calibrated. The O2 sensor is what the engine came with. Have purchased a Can Lambda, just waiting for it to arrive. The file name was my mistake worked that out after I posted it. No haven't set the base timing yet - lent my timing light to someone many years ago and didn't get it back. Waiting for a new one to arrive. Not sure how difficult this will be. The trigger I made to fit the distributor can be positioned anywhere. Just hope its close or as you say change it by 360. Have calibrated the TPS using the option, will have to look further into the APS. Not sure what's wrong there. Cheers Steve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveS Posted December 16, 2023 Author Report Share Posted December 16, 2023 Tried to set the base timing but I am getting no spark when cranking. When in test mode I can hear the click and see the spark on cylinder #1 via my timing light. Are there some other settings I need to change? Attached is a log when cranking and base file. Thank you Stratos #3.pclr Crank log 2023-12-16 2;28;00 pm.llg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koracing Posted December 16, 2023 Report Share Posted December 16, 2023 If you are very far from compression in the cylinder there may not be enough current flow to actually get a pulse the timing light will pick up. I would try changing your offset by 30 degrees at a time and see if the timing light starts to flash. castillaricardo 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vaughan Posted December 17, 2023 Report Share Posted December 17, 2023 you can also crank it with the spark plugs out but grounded which means it cranks faster and there is less of a load on the ignition coil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveS Posted December 21, 2023 Author Report Share Posted December 21, 2023 It started! The issue was with my new Innova timing light, it’s not sensitive enough. Cranked it with the plugs out as suggested and all 6 plugs fired. I borrowed my Neighbour's 30+ year old light which worked perfectly. Checked the timing at 7 degrees and -90 offset which put the mark in the right place but nothing happened so changed the offset to 270 and it started!! My wife was in the car doing the cranking which gave her a fright and stalled it but it ran long enough for me to be happy that there is sufficient spark. I'm away for a few weeks holiday but on return Ill set up the idle control and Can Lambda. Thank you all for the tips. Steve Vaughan, castillaricardo, dx4picco and 1 other 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveS Posted June 5 Author Report Share Posted June 5 Hi There I am after some help with an APS low voltage error. The APS I am using is for a Nissan Affinity/350z. The issue is as pointed out by Adam and pictured below is that the APS reads close to zero volts when closed. As a result, the engine will only run in setup mode. In following up Adams wiring suggestion I have so far checked that there is 5 volts at pins 4 and 6 using pins 1 and 3 as the respective sensor earths but I am unsure what to check next. Here is the pin diagram out I have been using Just in-case the internal stop was damaged I swapped the APS for another new unit but get the same result. I think I could fix this with an external closed position stop but this may not be fixing the real cause. Has anyone any experience with this APS? Any tips greatly appreciated. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveS Posted June 5 Author Report Share Posted June 5 Just found a process for manual calibration of the APS 350Z and G35 Pedal Calibration for LS Engine Swap Applications – LOJ Conversions (lojkits.com) The APS does read from 0 volts. The elongated mounting holes allow the APS to be twisted so that a closed voltage of 0.3 plus can be achieved. Looks like Ill be adding an adjustable stop required then recalibrating it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted June 5 Report Share Posted June 5 You can set the error low setting on the analog input to 0V and it will not trigger a fault. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveS Posted June 12 Author Report Share Posted June 12 On 6/5/2024 at 11:50 PM, Adamw said: You can set the error low setting on the analog input to 0V and it will not trigger a fault. Hi Adam With both low error settings at zero I'm still getting a tracking error when E-throttle is set to Run. It occurs on engine startup. In Setup mode there is no error which I find confusing. I have logged the tracking which seems fine to me, and I assume precludes any wiring issues. I am now thinking of ditching the Nissan APS and was wondering what I should look for. In case it helps I have attached two logs showing the APS tracking, Setup mode and Run. Here is the first Log 2024-06-12 3;31;08 pm tune + setup.zip Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveS Posted June 13 Author Report Share Posted June 13 Does the setting APS (Sub) 100% have something to do with the tracking error? Currently at 51%. Should it be 100% because the sub signal moves the full distance of the main albeit to a lower voltage. (cant post pictures or tune - getting a message saying file too big). Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koracing Posted June 13 Report Share Posted June 13 My understanding is if the Sub stops moving at some percentage of the main, that's what the APS (Sub) 100% setting is for. If you're seeing the APS continuously change voltage over the entire travel of the pedal, then the APS (Sub) 100% setting should be set to 100%. From the Help Menu: "APS (Sub) 100% Some Accelerator Position sensors have one signal that stops changing before full travel is reached, these sensors are most often found on Toyota and Lexus engines. For non linear sensors the APS (sub) 100% value must be set to the APS (Main) value at which the APS (Sub) number stops increasing at (typically around 60-70%). For linear sensors, which the majority of Accelerator Position Sensors are, this number must be set to 100%." Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveS Posted June 14 Author Report Share Posted June 14 Ok thanks - I corrected the SUB% to 100 and this seems to have fixed the issue. I ran the engine for about 5 mins on RUN without any errors. Now to sort the idling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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