BillySinden Posted March 11 Report Share Posted March 11 Got the car back form the dyno, it had an inlet leak so we had to stop. so ive changed the inlet gasket and now the car wont start at all on the map Could someone have a look at my map to tell me where im going wrong, ive run out of ideas at this point. LOG THE MAP The car is running AEM Smart Coils Standard CAS ID 1050XDS // 1300XDS Injectors Pulsar PTX3582R Turbo. All Coils are firing, Injectors are working ( on test and can smell fuel when Cranking) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vaughan Posted March 11 Report Share Posted March 11 engine speed is working and it is injecting fuel and firing the coils, no cuts are happening. Is it perhaps flooded? BillySinden 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koracing Posted March 11 Report Share Posted March 11 Double check cams didn't skip a tooth? Had a car just towed in that was running/driving - parked and then did not want to start. Had spark and had fuel and had proper triggers and rpm. Quick visual once the car showed up in person showed the cams were both off 8 teeth from correct versus crank TDC. I hypothesized that the customer's sloped driveway was the cause and it possibly rolled backward in a forward gear which is very probable to skip the timing belt if the engine is rotated backward. Nevermind lol I'm an idiot - Rotary engine right? No timing belt... BillySinden 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillySinden Posted March 11 Author Report Share Posted March 11 It does flood really quick, I’ve dried the plugs and it doesn’t even try to start. I think timing should be good as it started before I changed the gasket, maybe the timing is off ? and yes a rotary probably half the reason it don’t start! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
koracing Posted March 11 Report Share Posted March 11 If you have fuel and have spark, then checking the timing would be the next logical step I would think - I have no idea how that would be done on a rotary. It's possible that the tune was just VERY far off with whatever leak you had, but one would think it would show some signs of trying to start. BillySinden 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vaughan Posted March 11 Report Share Posted March 11 You can double check timing with a timing light and if you want to avoid flooding it for a test you can turn off fuel and use a little starter fluid to see if it fires up. Can also do Ignition and injection tests if you want to check the wiring, there is no smoking gun that I can see in the tune or log so it'll be something basic or something silly that was altered when you fixed the intake leak. I did notice that it's not really drawing any vacuum when cranking as shown by the MAP sensor but I would have to see a log form before the issue to confirm that is a change. BillySinden 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillySinden Posted March 11 Author Report Share Posted March 11 I did a smoke test on the intercooler piping so I don’t think it’s a air leak, lll have a look at timing I guess as I know compression fuel and spark are good but the maps looks okay? done it myself so a bit unsure, injectors and plugs all work on test and cranking Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vaughan Posted March 11 Report Share Posted March 11 Fuel table has some odd holes in it and you're not using bringing in the secondary injectors ever, lambda target table is a bit odd and I'm sure there'll be other things too but nothing specific to it not starting if it was starting on that tune previously to you fixing an inlet air leak. BillySinden 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillySinden Posted March 12 Author Report Share Posted March 12 The secondary injectors should only be coming on above 2700, otherwise it would flood to easy, I haven’t had a chance to fix the ve table just working on the idle so I can start tuning it again on the dyno Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vaughan Posted March 12 Report Share Posted March 12 10 minutes ago, BillySinden said: The secondary injectors should only be coming on above 2700, otherwise it would flood to easy Yes your staged rpm lockout is 2700rpm but your staging table is all 0s which is what I was referring to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillySinden Posted March 12 Author Report Share Posted March 12 Oh I didn’t even notice I’ll have a look into that thank you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted March 13 Report Share Posted March 13 I just had a quick look at your log, you have way more fuel being dumped in than I would expect, assuming the fuel is petrol. You have 11ms pulse width in the first cranking attempt, then 16ms in the 2nd. Comparing to a log of a cold start from our FD, that only briefly reaches a max of 8ms during cold cranking and that only has 850cc primaries from memory. So you have at least twice as much fuel going in as our car. Normal idle PW is about 1ms for reference. You have accel fuel adding extra fuel while cranking due to incorrect set up, so turn that off for now or copy the settings from our S6 base map. Fix the exaggerated fuel table numbers that you have around 100Kpa, <1000RPM where it will be working during cranking and drop the master fuel to about 7ms. See if there are any signs of life with less fuel. Rotaries can be pretty fussy to start when the tune is a long way off, a squirt of ether often helps. BillySinden 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillySinden Posted March 13 Author Report Share Posted March 13 Going to give this a shot tomorrow I’m new to mapping so thought it would be a good opportunity to learn thank you for the help! I’ll let you know how it goes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BillySinden Posted March 13 Author Report Share Posted March 13 13 hours ago, Adamw said: I just had a quick look at your log, you have way more fuel being dumped in than I would expect, assuming the fuel is petrol. You have 11ms pulse width in the first cranking attempt, then 16ms in the 2nd. Comparing to a log of a cold start from our FD, that only briefly reaches a max of 8ms during cold cranking and that only has 850cc primaries from memory. So you have at least twice as much fuel going in as our car. Normal idle PW is about 1ms for reference. You have accel fuel adding extra fuel while cranking due to incorrect set up, so turn that off for now or copy the settings from our S6 base map. Fix the exaggerated fuel table numbers that you have around 100Kpa, <1000RPM where it will be working during cranking and drop the master fuel to about 7ms. See if there are any signs of life with less fuel. Rotaries can be pretty fussy to start when the tune is a long way off, a squirt of ether often helps. And it lives once more!! Thank you so much just shows how changing something small can change everything now time to head back to the dyno!!! Thanks everyone! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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