Cameron Daline Posted August 9, 2010 Report Share Posted August 9, 2010 Hi all. I have an old Volvo 240 that I built a custom turbo motor for that I have running on LINK G3. It's all running beautifully and working great so far but I'm trying to tie up a couple more loose ends. I'm currently trying to figure out how to get the factory tacho to work with the LINK. The factory tacho originally ran off the negative side of the ignition coil. With the new motor I have it running on COP arrangement so no external coil to drive the factory tacho. Here's what I found, according to the LINK manual: Quote: "An auxiliary output configured at 'Tacho" produces a 0-12V pulse train to drive a low-level tach. There will be one output pulse for each time a cylinder reaches TDC. Connect an auxiliary output directly to a low-level tachometer. Link G3 ECU's will NOT drive a high level tach that is triggered by a coil's negative terminal. Using a high level tach on a multi-coil engine presents some problems, as each coils is not firing as often as a distributor engine's coil would. In this case the preferred solution is to modify the high level tach to accept a low level signal." I'd imagine I could wire the tach up by triggering off each coil and wiring in diodes to not send the signal back to the other coils, but single wire hookup off the ECU seems way easier since the ECU is already configured to send out the signal I need. I just don't get what is meant by the statement 'modify the high level tach to accept a low level signal.' I don't even know where to start with that? Can I just amplify the tach signal off the ECU somehow? Any thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cameron Daline Posted August 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2010 OK, another question related to this.... Since I'm not finding any info anywhere about how I might alter the tacho to accept the low level signal I'm also looking at installing an aftermarket tach. Most aftermarket tachos I find state that they will work on a "12V square wave applications." Would the tacho output from the LINK ECU be compatible? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Williams Posted August 23, 2010 Report Share Posted August 23, 2010 Hi, 'High level tacho' means that the tachometer requires a high voltage (aprox 400V) input from the coils negative terminal. Some companies offer the service of modifying the factory tachometer to a low level signal (12V). Your ideal involving the diodes does work. An after market tacho will work with the Link ECU if it states it is compatible with 12V tacho signals. Regards, Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cameron Daline Posted August 24, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 24, 2010 Hi Phil, Thanks for the response. Another question to follow up if I may, which will probably sound like a newbie question! As I'm running the COP arrangement in wasted spark I am only using the IGN1 and IGN2 outputs from the LINK G3. They are paired off to the coils of course. I am using COPs from a Toyota that have built in ignitors so each coil has 3 inputs -- 12v, ground, and the IGN input from the LINK to tell it when to fire. If I want to run the tacho with a couple diodes from the coils which of these 3 wires would I splice into? The IGN signal wires from the LINK? Thanks, Cameron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted August 26, 2010 Report Share Posted August 26, 2010 Yep the ignition signal wires. Catch is that this will be a low level signal and you have no way of getting to the coil negative signal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Joseph Ottesen Posted August 28, 2010 Report Share Posted August 28, 2010 im running an autometer (phantom series) directly of aux output 3 from my G3plus on my 1UZ, does this configuration not suit ur setup? Worked as soon as i hooked it up and read correctly.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted August 31, 2010 Report Share Posted August 31, 2010 That would do the trick but main idea was to get factory one up and running. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cameron Daline Posted September 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 19, 2010 Hi all, So... still frustrated. Decided going aftermarket gauge would just be easier. Not proving to be thus far though. I got a VDO Vison tach to use with the car. It states it will work with '12v square wave' applications. In the install info that came with the gauge it shows it working either off a coil, or off an electronic ignition system (just like how the Autometer Phantom gauge is installed as mentioned above -- I compared install diagrams and instructions for both the Autometer and VDO). The VDO tacho I have just has dip switches that you change depending on config and # of cylinders. I've got Aux output 3 in LINK setup as 'tacho' output in the PCLink. According to the PCLink help, that signal produces a pulse each time an ignition event occurs. In the printed manual though, I find that it states that tacho ouput from LINK sends a pulse each time the motor is at TDC. Which is correct? No matter how I set it with the dip switches or what the info is set at in the PCLink, I get nothing on the gauge. I tried running the duty cycle low from the PCLink, I tried setting it all the way up, and in between. Nothing on the tach. I figured I'd at least get something and of course could fine tune it on the gauge and in the PCLink to calibrate it, but I just have nothing. I've verified the tach has power as the gauge 'zeroes' when power is supplied to it. It's just not reading RPMs. I tried every combination of settings on the 3 dip switches and no luck getting it to read anything on any configuration. What am I missing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cameron Daline Posted September 19, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 19, 2010 Forgot to ask in the last post -- how can I test the output of Aux 3? Can I put a multimeter on the Aux 3 wire as it's set now as tacho output and see the pulse on my multimeter? So I can determine if the tach just isn't recognizing the signal vs. whether or not I have the output configured correctly? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Williams Posted September 21, 2010 Report Share Posted September 21, 2010 Hi Cameron, You will need to wire a pull-up resistor from 12V to the auxiliary pin. The ECU only drives low so the pull-up will help generate the square wave. A typical resistor value would be 4k7 ohms. Regards, Phil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cameron Daline Posted September 21, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2010 I looked back in the LINK install manual and it does mention that some tachs will require a 1000 ohm 1/4 watt resistor? Is that different than a 4k7 ohm you mention? Would something like this work for what I need: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062343? Thanks again, Cameron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cameron Daline Posted September 21, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2010 Drat -- response automatically included the ? as part of the link. Here's the link to the resistor I tried to link: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062343 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jurgen Biggelaar Posted September 22, 2010 Report Share Posted September 22, 2010 Hi Cameron. 4K7 means 4700 ohms effectively, however you have shown a 1K (1000 ohm) resistor here. In fact you would probably be better off with this one as it will provide a more positive 'pull up'. I say this after discussing with my collegue and he agrees. Yes, get the 1K 1/4W pictured in the link you provided from radio shack... Should do the job nicely. Let us know how you get on. Jurgen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cameron Daline Posted September 22, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2010 Thank you Jurgen! That is very helpful -- I'll go grab a resistor and get it installed and hope that does the trick BTW, attached is a pic of the motor I built that the LINK is running. Cheers, Cameron Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jurgen Biggelaar Posted September 23, 2010 Report Share Posted September 23, 2010 Hi Cameron. Thanks for sharing that... What a nice looking build! Very tidy. Jurgen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cameron Daline Posted September 24, 2010 Author Report Share Posted September 24, 2010 Thanks Jurgen! I've spent a lot of time on it and tidy was a top priority for me. And now, thanks to the help from you guys, I have a working tachometer finally! I wired in the 1000 ohm 1/4 watt resistor for the tacho output and that did the trick. It's a small victory, but very satisfying to have it working the way I want now Best, Cameron PS -- here's a link to more info and pics of the build up: http://www.ipdusa.com/blog-58. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jurgen Biggelaar Posted October 18, 2010 Report Share Posted October 18, 2010 Yeahaa! Success is a word I love to hear... No matter how small. Had a look through the link you sent... What a !phAt! looking car! It has a real sinister look about her, and I quite like that. Jurgen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Simon Posted November 30, 2011 Report Share Posted November 30, 2011 E Parrot and Sons in Christchurch do this sort of modification. Or have a search for instrumentation specialist in the yellow pages. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stevieturbo Posted December 3, 2011 Report Share Posted December 3, 2011 I cant comment of the Volvo. But I recently got a 1990 Honda CRX up and running on a G3. As best I can tell, the tacho took it's signal from the coil ( built into the dizzy ) I fried the OEM ignition amp setting the damn thing up, and the coil no longer worked. I fitted a coilpack instead, but it left me without a tacho. I just wired an Aux output to the wire from dizzy to tacho and set the output to Tacho ( annoying that the multiplier doesnt allow 2 decimal places ) and the tacho worked fine, apart from a slightly inaccurate reading There are various signal modifier or adjuster boxes available. So maybe one of these might be of use to create a signal for you to use from a PWM output ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveS Posted September 14, 2023 Report Share Posted September 14, 2023 On 9/24/2010 at 3:38 PM, Cameron Daline said: Thanks Jurgen! I've spent a lot of time on it and tidy was a top priority for me. And now, thanks to the help from you guys, I have a working tachometer finally! I wired in the 1000 ohm 1/4 watt resistor for the tacho output and that did the trick. It's a small victory, but very satisfying to have it working the way I want now smiley_smile.png Best, Cameron PS -- here's a link to more info and pics of the build up: http://www.ipdusa.com/blog-58. Sorry for dragging up this old thread but I was keen on giving this a try, it seems to be a very elegant simple solution that could be easily hidden under some shrink wrap. I have a Stratos replica with a 12v Alfa Romeo V6 that I am converting to coils and e-throttle and this is one of the remaining tasks. The Tacho is a Veglia Borletti from a Fiat 124 which was driven from a 12v coil. The picture below is what I believe is described in the quote. Can someone confirm this please. I have a Storm ECU and I am obtaining the low signal from Aux 1. The resister I'm about to use is 1,000ohm, 1/4 watt. Thanks a lot Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted September 15, 2023 Report Share Posted September 15, 2023 No, although this thread is titled "altering high level tacho to accept low level signal", if you read into it a bit, he actually has a low level aftermarket tacho. He only needed to add a pull-up resistor because this is an old G3 ecu which didnt have internal pull-up resistors. This will not drive a high level tacho which require about a 100V kick from the ignition coil to trigger. Some tachos can be modified or my suggestion would be to use a "tacho booster" or "tach adapter" which are small boxes with an inductive coil inside to generate the high voltage signal. Probably the cheapest option in NZ is this: https://www.rewiresnz.com/products/haltech-tacho-output-adaptor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveS Posted September 16, 2023 Report Share Posted September 16, 2023 Hi Adam Thank you for the clarification, I have ordered one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cws_nz Posted September 21, 2023 Report Share Posted September 21, 2023 have used a few of these JRP tach boosters seem to work well https://www.justraceparts.com.au/jrp-tacho-booster-signal-adapter these signal adaptors can be useful as well if you cant scale it with the ecu output setting https://www.justraceparts.com.au/jrp-universal-tach-adapter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SteveS Posted October 3, 2023 Report Share Posted October 3, 2023 It's a shame but I need to report an issue with Re-Wires NZ. Do not buy anything online from Re-Wires NZ. I used the link Adam supplied above, paid for the Haltech signal adaptor but it never arrived. Delivery is stated to be 3-5 days. After a week I emailed them and they said items out of stock are not shown, that they had ordered one in and sent it. 3 weeks later it's still not received. Despite repeated requests they did not provide a courier tracking reference nor do they reply to my subsequent emails. They do not list a phone number. This is dishonest/fraudulent behaviour, they should not be a link ecu provider. Looking at their Facebook page reviews it seems that this is a common occurrence. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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