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Running Subaru Dual AVCS Heads


scifisubi
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Hello,

I have a Vipec Subaru V1-2 Ecu that I would like to run a set of newer dual avcs heads with, both intake and exhaust cams.  Here is my current wiring, and my proposed wiring...it looks like it should work to me, but I wanted to get verification on this idea though.  Currently I am running an Sti ej20g setup but I will convert the intake to a V7-8 style sti intake with drive by cable, and v10 sti style dual avcs heads, I've noted how some of the Aux and Digital inputs will be freed up. Thanks for the help!

Current Wiring                                                New AVCS Wiring

Aux 1 – ISC Sol. Slave                                    VVT Cam Solenoid (ISC Slave Removed as per Sti V7-8 manifold

Aux 2 – ISC Solenoid                                      VVT Cam Solenoid

Aux 3 – Tacho                                                 VVT Cam Solenoid

Aux 4 – Boost Solenoid                                 VVT Cam Solenoid (Boost controlled via MBC)

Aux 5 – Fuel Pump                                         Fuel Pump

Aux 6 – Aircon Clutch                                    Tacho

Aux 7 – Purge                                                  ISC Solenoid (Purge Controlled via Hobbs Switch)

Aux 8 – CE Light                                              CE Light

Injector Drive 1 – Injector 1

Injector Drive 2 – Injector 2

Injector Drive 3 – Injector 3

Injector Drive 4 – Injector 4

Injector Drive 5 – Engine Fan (HS)

Injector Drive 6 – Engine Fan

DI 1 – Start Position                                                                                   

DI 2 – Air Con Request                                  VVT Cam Position

DI 3 – Power Steer                                         VVT Cam Position

DI 4 – Speed                                                    VVT Cam Position

DI 5 – OFF                                                        Power Steer

DI 6 – OFF                                                        Speed

AN Temp 1- Engine coolant Temp

AN Temp 2 – Inlet Air Temp

AN Temp 3 – OFF

AN Volt 1 – MAP Sensor

AN Volt 2 – OFF

An Volt 3 – TPS (Main)

AN Volt 4- Voltage 0-5v

AN Volt 5 – Wideband

AN Volt 6 – OFF

 

 

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Hi Scifisubi,

I've checked over the schematics and your proposed wiring looks fine.  If you have the revision 1.2 bottom board you will also have Ign 7 & 8 on the expansion connector that you could use for the boost control.

I think one problem with your proposed setup will be the mix of the V1 crank trigger pattern combined with the V10/11 cam pattern will not work.  I dont know these engines well but is it a possibility to change the crank trigger to the matching V10/11 style. 

Edited by Adamw
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Thanks Adam!

 

I just looked at my package and it says PCB rev 1.2 so it looks like I may have more inputs than I thought!  I've looked into switching to the newer crank trigger and it sounds like all I would need to do is swap the crank sprocket from a newer engine...Thanks again for the help!

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  • 3 weeks later...

I have been looking at the base maps provided for plug in ecus for wrxs with avcs...I am a little confused.  I see that for a single avcs system DI 1 and DI 2 are both used as cam position sensors and in the triggers section trigger 2 is set to v vti = off...does this mean that the ecu is not actually using trigger 2 but rather one of the digital inputs instead?  My original plan was to have one of the cam sensors wired to trigger 2 with v vti = inlet/ lh but I see this is not how any of the base maps are set up.  Could you please clarify the difference between trigger 2 and a digital input channel in regards to this?  

Thanks Again!

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Trigger 2 is used on applications where the trigger 2 input is from a position that moves with cam timing changes.

On some of the Subaru applications they had a trigger 2 that was off the cam gear and did not move with the change in cam timing. In this case trigger 2 vvt will be off and 2 Dis will be used.

If the sensor connected to trigger 2 is on a part of the cam that moves relative to the crank then trigger 2 vvt will be used.

Edited by Simon
typo
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Thanks for the info!  That is really helpful...I will adjust my wiring accordingly.  One other question that I'd like clarification on is where the DI 3 input is actually located on the wrx v1-2 plug in ecu...in the manual it states pin #57 which corresponds to B58 #12 "fuel pump relay ingition on", however the base map lists this as "power steering sensor" which should actually be  F47 #16 or #24 as indicated on the diagram in the vipec manual...could you clarify which pin the DI 3 is actually on?  Thanks again!

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Thanks for the info on that pin.  Is there a VVT Exhaust Target table available anywhere for the ecu?  All of the base maps feature intake only avcs...I was wondering if there is a good base table available or do I need to start from scratch?  Thanks for all the help so far!

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  • 4 months later...

Can someone confirm for me please what the pin is for trigger 1 and trigger 2 on the wrx v1-2 ecu?  I am seeing cam angle at 37 & 38 and crank angle on 52 & 53...I am wanting to confirm which one is input and which is ground.  Thanks!

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I've now got pretty much everything working correctly except that I'm having a problem with the inj 6 pin.  I can't seem to control anything with this pin,  I wanted to control the tach, but I also tried the boost control solenoid and it doesn't seem to work.  I'm using pin #23 on the diagram which is a red and blue wire originally labeled ac fan control, can someone please confirm if this is correct?  Any ideas what might be happening here?  I know that these items work correctly on other pins so I'm pretty stumped.

Note:  For anyone else following this thread with a similar build, Adam is right, there are indeed three wires off the left intake cam sensor, however, only one goes to the ecu...the other two are power and ground, in my case I left the trigger (-) wire blank and it seems to work fine thus far.

Edited by scifisubi
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Pin 23 is correct for inj 6 and there is no extra hardware connected to that pin on this ecu so it should work just like a normal inj aux.  I suspect a Tacho will probably need a pullup resistor added as the inj drives only have a very weak pullup.  I dont see any reason why it shouldnt drive a relay or boost solenoid though.  Can you take the wire off pin 23 and just use a test light or something simple to eliminate most wiring influences.  One side to +12V, other side to inj 6.  Put inj 6 into test (pwm) and set it to 10hz, you should see it flashing.

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Thanks Adam!  That did it...I switched the check engine light to the inj drive and the tach to the regular aux output and now everything is well!  I am having a strange idle issue though.  I am using the wrx v7-9 idle air control setup so I ported all of the settings over from that base map, however, the engine is not idling consistently.  My idle target is 800 rpm, sometimes it hits that but usually it is idling at around 1500 rpm.  I logged a bit today where the motor was at 800 at the start of the log and then every time it should have gone into idle it would be hovering at 1500 rpm.  Any idea what the issue could be?  I know that this is a really broad question and that it may not be ecu related at all but I'd like to rule out the electronics for sure.  I've tested the iacv with the test function within the ecu and it appears to be working fine.  I've noticed that sometimes when I push f12 the idle status under auxiliary says "hold rpm lockout", could this be the problem?  It seems that adjusting the low idle rpm lockout under closed loop lambda has little affect on this.  Here is my configuration and data log...thank you very much for all of the help thus far!

working davcs 1.pcl

test log.zip

Edit: 

I may have solved this, I raised the rpm lockout from 600 to 1000 rpm and now the idle stabilizes where it should albeit a little slow...I am fairly confident that a few more adjustments should yield good results!

Edited by scifisubi
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Thanks Adam, that really helped with the idle!  Right now I am having trouble with the vvt settings...I just finished rechecking all of the wiring and couldn't find anything at fault.  Basically what is happening is that there is no signal on the RH Cam inlet position and the two exhaust cam position values are constantly flashing between red and green, sometimes they say that there is a sync error.  I have the two inlet cam position solenoids wired the exact same way so it seems strange that one is working and one isn't...I've checked the signal, power and ground wiring and it all looks good.  I wonder if there is a setting in the ecu that I may have missed perhaps?  I set everything up according to the subaru quad avcs settings sheet provided.  Here's a screenshot of what is happening.  Thanks again for all the assistance!

Capture.PNG

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Are you the same guy I've been communicating with via tech support/email?  It seems very similar and I dont want to type everything out twice...

I would say based on the runtime screenshot about Exh RH and possibly Exh LH are set up with incorrect offsets on the DI's.  Inlet RH is not getting a signal so you have a wiring issue.

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Adam,

This is the only place I've been in contact with you so there must be two people with this issue.  My thoughts are that it has to be a wiring issue as well on the RH Cam Position sensor, however there are only three wires, two of them are going to the same place as the left cam trigger (power and ground) and I know these are good as I checked them with my meter, and the third that goes to the ecu has continuity all the way from the sensor pigtail to the ecu plug.  I even swapped sensors to see if maybe this was a bad sensor but no luck.  I've setup the trigger values as indicated by the online help for subaru quad avcs and checked those many times but I'll give it another look.   I'll try and search the forum again to try and find the other person who is having this problem that you are helping with, sorry you are having to do things twice for two different people. 

Thanks.

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Update:

Today I ran a completely new set of wires to the RH Intake AVCS Cam Sensor all the way from the sensor to the ecu...still no dice though.  Is it possible that if the timing were off a tooth or so I would get a "no signal" error on the ecu?  I would think it would still be seeing a signal if this were the case.  I swapped the sensor for a known good one so that should rule that out.  This is most puzzling.  Thanks for the help.

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