Jump to content

Pin install - quick sense check


M1tch
 Share

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Just about to add in some additional pins into connector B to add in wideband O2 readings into the CAN inputs (its via an AEM X Gauge with CAN output).

Am I correct to say that I need to push the white tab on the side in to unlock the pins to then insert additional pins?

I have spare pins to be added in, how do I attach the wiring to the pin, do I solder and crimp or just crimp? How should I crimp the wire to the pin (I have a standard wire stripper/crimping tool, is that ok?)?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

8 minutes ago, Brad Burnett said:

yes you have to push the white tab

crimp the terminals with an open barrel crimper standard is not ok.

open barrel crimper should be available  at like a frys or computer/electronics store.

Thank you, will go and find an open barrel crimper, I am still awaiting a barb adapter to arrive for me to be able to wire in the Link ECU with the MAP sensor that has just arrived so have a bit of time!

Will check to see what my wire stripper has and if its ok to use - might actually be the sort I need.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That one is not really suitable - that would be a closed barrel crimper.  Even though CAN is probably not a highly critical connection, on these particular connectors the crimp needs to be done fairly nicely otherwise the pin doesnt actually fit into the housing after crimping.  About the lowest cost crimper I have seen that will do a reasonable job of these superseal 1.0 pins is the T10 micro-crimper.  You need an "F" or "B" crimp type cavity for the conductor crimp and a round cavity for the insulation crimp.  https://www.racetronix.biz/product.asp?ic=199-t-10

Hozan P706 is another low-cost tool that can do them well.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 hours ago, Adamw said:

That one is not really suitable - that would be a closed barrel crimper.  Even though CAN is probably not a highly critical connection, on these particular connectors the crimp needs to be done fairly nicely otherwise the pin doesnt actually fit into the housing after crimping.  About the lowest cost crimper I have seen that will do a reasonable job of these superseal 1.0 pins is the T10 micro-crimper.  You need an "F" or "B" crimp type cavity for the conductor crimp and a round cavity for the insulation crimp.  https://www.racetronix.biz/product.asp?ic=199-t-10

Hozan P706 is another low-cost tool that can do them well.

Thank you for the info, will go and buy a crimper and do it properly, will probably need to crimp a few connectors in the future.

What do I need to look for when ordering? Just open barrel crimper? Are there different types?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This pic is not the right tool but it was the clearest pic I could find online to illustrate (Similar to the T10 but the round cavity is too big on this tool).  Ideally, you will have both a round cavity about 1.8-2.0mm and a couple of B cavity size options.  

MzDzYgG.png

 

And here is the Hozan P706:

sa2qlWf.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

56 minutes ago, Adamw said:

This pic is not the right tool but it was the clearest pic I could find online to illustrate (Similar to the T10 but the round cavity is too big on this tool).  Ideally, you will have both a round cavity about 1.8-2.0mm and a couple of B cavity size options.  

MzDzYgG.png

 

And here is the Hozan P706:

sa2qlWf.png

Thank you, will look to get a set asap

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have asked around at work to see if anyone has a pair, I am over in the UK so might be a bit more limited in terms of some of the options, I have found the below - are any of them any good (sorry they are all Amazon it seem, not a site I ever want to use)?

1.25mm > 6.3mm

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Qiilu-Professional-Terminal-Harness-Crimping/dp/B076CJL1FW/

Similar but better quality:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Barrel-Terminal-Crimper-DELPHI-Terminals/dp/B01A6U5242/

This one has a set of dies so might be handy:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Voilamart-Ratcheting-Professional-Non-Insulated-Screwdriver/dp/B07F9VBMW4

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 years later...
On 7/18/2018 at 11:55 PM, Adamw said:

Hozan P706 is another low-cost tool that can do them well.

Hi Adam,

I aquired this one on your recommendation.

What size of opening would you recommend for the 16-18awg pin and which one would you recommend for the 20awg pin?

2.0 for the 16-18 awg and 1.7 for the for the 20awg pin?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah, I havent used mine for a long time but 1.7 and 2.0 would be what I used for most of the common automotive terminals.   Usually the L size cavity.  As with any crimp tool you are getting familiar with, its best to waste a couple of terminals on a scrap piece of wire and do a close visual as well as tug test before committing to the actual job.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...