Wuppet Posted March 14, 2019 Report Share Posted March 14, 2019 Folks, I am not getting reading from second o2 sensor/lambda sensor on display gauges or logs Have checked wiring all the way back to ecu and swapped sensor plugs to ensure sensors are good. Gotta be doing something wrong Any thoughts! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ducie54 Posted March 14, 2019 Report Share Posted March 14, 2019 Posting your map and log will help diagnose issue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wuppet Posted March 14, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2019 are these what you are after? maybe have a look at the ignition map while you are at it - might help with my other post appreciate any words of wisdom cheers 1StewsPlymouth.pclr Log 2019-03-10 12;14;29 pm.llg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ducie54 Posted March 14, 2019 Report Share Posted March 14, 2019 Lambda 1 show code 17 Invalid Pump Current - The controller went into protection mode to prevent excess pump current being applied to the sensor. This can occur if exhaust gas is excessively rich or lean or if the sensor is failing. Lambda reading is invalid during this condition. Lambda 2 ·16 Heated Too Long - Sensor has been heating for too long without reaching operating temperature. Sensor heater may be faulty or there may be a wiring issue. Watch Int. Lambda 1 Temp. during heating to determine if the sensor heats at all. ·33 Open Circuit APE-IPE - Open loop or too high resistance on APE-IPE loop (pump cell). You can check the lambda status in run times values by pressing F12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wuppet Posted March 14, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 14, 2019 Not sure what to do here, i have metered all wiring right back to ecu with no issues. I am getting constant readings from sensor 1 and if i swap that plug at the sensor i get readings from the other sensor Likely that log file is in a very rich status as it is untuned and extremely rich, i get nothing from sensor 2 right from initial start Any thoughts as to what i should be checking Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ducie54 Posted March 14, 2019 Report Share Posted March 14, 2019 If you can try powering the lambda straight from the battery. Not sure how hard it is to move your sensors but might be worth swapping them to the other side is see if the error codes change. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gsab Posted March 17, 2019 Report Share Posted March 17, 2019 Following this...none the wiser. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted March 17, 2019 Report Share Posted March 17, 2019 The only time I have seen the "invalid pump current" error was when someone had used LSU 4.2 sensors. Are these genuine Bosch LSU 4.9 sensors? - not Chinese clones? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gtihk Posted March 18, 2019 Report Share Posted March 18, 2019 Chinese clones are not always bad but do expect a shorter life out of them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted March 18, 2019 Report Share Posted March 18, 2019 50 minutes ago, gtihk said: Chinese clones are not always bad but do expect a shorter life out of them. This was from a few years ago when the 4.2 was the more common sensor, but things havent changed much from what I have seen. Factory Bosch laser trimmed calibration resistor on left, clone sensor calibration resistor on right. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gtihk Posted March 18, 2019 Report Share Posted March 18, 2019 I have never opened up one! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wuppet Posted March 18, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2019 both are genuine bosch sensors, No 1 loom and sensor seem ok beginning to suspect that there must be something like a bad connection in the 2nd loom + "no2" faulty sensor. If i plug the known good connector (1) into the other sensor (2) i get an error - something related to heating. If i plug loom 2 into the "good" sensor (1) i get an open circuit error. Have rechecked loom 2 and it meters continuity fine - scratching head now! - will get someone to wiggle connectors at same time and see what happens I am a little confused by todays work - over last couple of days i have roughly tuned using the mixture map and logged data, adjust and repeat - to the stage it drove pretty good last night. This morning took it in to get new exhaust fitted (headers back) drove in fine and almost undrivable on return trip - i would swear lean back firing majorly! Sensor still shows as rich pretty much everywhere - ignored this and added approx 10 points across the entire fuel map - ran heaps better but log still shows rich. Have attached map (after adjustment) and 2 log files - earlier log before adding extra fuel. Any thoughts Note: would you expect TPS to be as unstable as log shows? Log 2019-03-18 5;47;10 pm.llg Log 2019-03-18 5;57;35 pm.llg 1StewsPlymouth.pclr Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ducie54 Posted March 18, 2019 Report Share Posted March 18, 2019 TP delta is jumping around adding accel fuel all the time. You shouldnt needed to adjust fuel table numbers, just fix the tps signal fault Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted March 18, 2019 Report Share Posted March 18, 2019 Was typing reply at same time as Ducie, so will leave it here anyway.... Yep something is wrong with the TPS. It is causing accel enrichment to work nearly constantly so you have like 20-40% extra fuel going in. That probably means your earlier tuning was effected by that. RPM trace looks pretty noisy also but I dont think they are related. Wouldnt hurt to do a triggerscope to see if there is anything we can do to improve the RPM trace. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ducie54 Posted March 18, 2019 Report Share Posted March 18, 2019 Even the log you have posted dated the 10th still has the same issue. I would go back through your logs and see if it has been there from the start. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wuppet Posted March 18, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 18, 2019 Had issue back on the 10th with tps, could actually feel the surging whilst driving and could watch it on the bar graph for tps-to extent that i thought the 5v line was dropping out- logs don't show that Did a calibrate and it pretty much disappeared and yet is now back in logs but can't see visually on bar graph. Could this be result of noise? I did sit with car not running for a long time watching the tps at the same part throttle, it didn't even twitch Your advice is good, i thought i had enrichment disabled. Will go back and check basics before further troubling you folks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wuppet Posted March 24, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2019 Gents, Can you please have a look at TPS in this log and let me know your thoughts. Have replaced TPS with a new Delphi sensor and disabled accel enrichment - is the "stability" of sensor something you would think to be acceptable? Appreciate your assistance Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ducie54 Posted March 24, 2019 Report Share Posted March 24, 2019 For some reason you TP main fluctuations match your rpm fluctuations. Its like is getting interference from something. Quick questions. How are you controlling the idle. Your base table is set for 300 at every temp range open loop but your max clamp is set to 120. How do you find your idle on this engine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wuppet Posted March 25, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 25, 2019 Believe that i have all idle control and enrichment disabled - please correct me if I'm wrong. Idles fine once warmed up. The tps signal seems fine when idling and warmed up and has noise at part throttle, Amy ideas on how to eradicate interference Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adamw Posted March 25, 2019 Report Share Posted March 25, 2019 Im not convinced if it is actually caused by electrical noise or if it is actually the throttle blade moving due to vibration or poor adjustment or lumpy vacuum etc. The "noise" seems to mostly disappear when you open the throttle. Has the cable got plenty of free play and the throttle blade is sitting on a mechanical stop etc? What is the throttle body on this thing? Note you need to calibate your TPS as it is showing 40% at idle. Ducie54 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ducie54 Posted March 25, 2019 Report Share Posted March 25, 2019 If you unbolt the tps sensor from the throttle body when running does the log trend change? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wuppet Posted March 28, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 28, 2019 Gents, I really appreciate your assistance with this thing - im really confused as to what is going on. That last log was immediately after TPS calibration - have done so again along with map as well - as it did last time if engine isnt running the tps seems to be pretty much as one would expect. The throttle body is an Aeroflow unit. After recal of tps i took first log attached from cold engine, so you can see it jump a bit while warming but it pretty much was idling straight away - the big broad jumps in tps were at constant slight pedal. Watching this on "tuning" screen i could see dramatic jumps on the tps bar graph, there was absolutely no throttle movement. once warmed properly i restarted log file and while running unbolted tps from throttle body (possibly took a few minutes) and this didnt make FA difference to what was happening. Wiring runs from ecu to firewall into Deutsch 50 pin connector, from there to sensors +everything else, there is a MSD ignition and coil in close proximity (approx 4-6 inch) HV lead runs higher along a metal strut brace to distributor at front of engine. im kinda stumped - any ideas? Cheers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ducie54 Posted March 28, 2019 Report Share Posted March 28, 2019 Could you post some pics of the engine bay setup. How is the MSD grounded? Also could you post a trigger scope at idle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wuppet Posted March 30, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2019 MSD Grounded to post through firewall - as is ecu and relay banks on fuse board - heavy strap from post to engine - engine to battery have attached latest log and trigger scope grab - are they what you are seeking? This latest log shows massive fluctuation in the 5v line - if you look at about 2.4 - 3 the TPS at this period was at constant idle, all the jumps to 20% are "erronous" Also attached photos under bonnet Wiring enters via 50 deutsch plug to lower right of msd, with heavier wiring via another deutsch just to the left of it - wiring all bound together and stays low at back of engine to the valley, seperates to injectors/oil pressure sensor/idle control motor (disabled currently), rest of loom runs forward to TPS, water temp and dual sync dizzy Coil is to right with high tension lead running along strut brace to dizzy I am at a loss to explain the 5v line fluctations as they seem to be new Any ideas? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wuppet Posted March 30, 2019 Author Report Share Posted March 30, 2019 as the 5v fluctuation is new i looked for any changes, i had plugged the "suspect" o2 sensor back in, so i disabled it in ecu and unplugged it. TPS on log is now stable, - this is odd as i had only just plugged it in before taking that last log, maybe disabling it in the ecu has done something additional. will go back across everything related to that sensor line. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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