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cj

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Everything posted by cj

  1. cj

    Traction Control question

    If you drive a DI to too high a frequency it fails to 0. So the non drive wheel speed will be received as 0kph. I've never tried it, but I think if you added a 1kph column to the slip table (to separate 0kph from 1kph), and set this whole 0kph column to 100% (ie allow any slip/no traction control), then it would perform TC as requested up to between 80-150kph (actual failure frequency is usually a fair bit over 500Hz), then once it fails to 0 it will hit the non-driven speed column for 0kph, which would have values essentially disabling TC.
  2. one of the aux outputs, injector outputs, or ignition outputs will be configured as "radiator fan". Find this and change it from polarity low to polarity high. If that fixes it then save the tune. This setting essentially swaps the on & off states as far as voltage/ground is concerned. Its quite possible the default tune on the ECU has this backwards for the wiring in your car.
  3. cj

    Unlock Code

    Looks like you have a 4 digit serial number, there was a known issue a while back where dealers were forgetting to add the leading 0 to make it 5 digits. Maybe thats the problem here?
  4. Yes it is. Check the pinout in the help file then connect 12v, ground, and the programming cable and you are good to go
  5. cj

    2005 STI Cruise Control

    If you have the whole car converted to DBW then you dont need the cruise module at all. You wire up the cruise switch to the ECU directly and it handles cruise control via DBW. you need brake & clutch switches fed to the ECU, and optionally some outputs for the cruise lights on the dash. That steering wheel switch can hopefully be replaced by one out of a DBW legacy or a non-sti model which I think look the same/have the same mount points. These switches already had the resistor based contacts in them so you get the 1-5v steps depending on which button you press. At this point you just wire the "output" wire from the switch anVoltX as you describe above
  6. yes with a but... That base idle table has Engine coolant temp on the top axis, so you should only need to change the cell that matches the current ECT. What I do is wait until the car is dead cold. Start it up, open the base idle table, then touch absolutely nothing until the ECT gets to exactly 10/20/30 deg etc as listed on the top axis. Once it gets to the center of the cell (so the coolant temp matches exactly), bump up/down just that cell value until the idle is what you want, then sit there until it goes up another 10 deg.
  7. cj

    ECU change

    In the help file here you can compare the ECU pinouts for yourself. press F1 in PCLink to open this.
  8. press f12 to see that screen. There are some tabs up the top of the window, you are probably most interested in the CAN tab. On one of the other tabs will be the aux4 & DI12 output signals you are looking to use for pump control as well. 59.x Ohms sounds like a good number and suggests both ends are wired correctly.
  9. If you stick a multimeter on CAN2 with all devices plugged in, you should see ~60 ohms. If you see 120 Ohm it means you only have 1x resistor installed, and if you see much higher numbers it probably means you only have the devices connected (eg its seeing continuity through the pump controller only, with who knows how much resistance (apparently 53K). There should be 1x resistor in the link ECU however, so the highest resistance you should be able to see is ~120 Ohm, regardless of what is connected to the other end. Can you describe how you have connected CAN2 to the pump - eg which wires/pins you connected at the ECU end and if you have any other joins or devices connected between the pump and the ECU?
  10. cj

    ECU change

    you will need to change 3 or 4 wires if you use them. Here is the monsoon pinout and i've circled the pins that change compared to the xtreme plug A. xtreme's have a plug B as well so obviously anything on that plug you will need to wire in fresh. If you dont use CAN, DI4, or Aux5/6 then yes it plug in, upload the config, and away you go. Note that its probably a good idea to unplug injectors/spark/any other outputs prior to plugging in the blank ECU - you dont want random things turning on or off because the config is different to start with
  11. Can you check the CAN wiring has no breaks or shorts with a multimeter? This looks not connected.
  12. What do you have for an idle valve & is it connected? That log shows Idle valve % as 0 the whole time.
  13. on a thunder, probably. On any other model, it will exceed the max frequency input. its going to send 1x pulse per blade that goes past it. If you have 10x blades in your compressor, @100,000 rpm you are seeing 16666 blades per second. Even a thunder DI maxes out at 6500hz - so with a lower number of blades or a lower expected turbo rpm then yes.
  14. There is something wrong with your charging circuit as well. It sits at the same ~12.6v at 2500rpm as it does at 0rpm.
  15. Try setting divider to 1000 on the can stream setup for "lambda 1". The spartan adv3 manual says this value is sent as lambda x 1000 on the wire. The current lambda value is clearly wrong - it only ever changes during initialisation, so looks like it might be reading a status field not a lambda value. Are you certain the controller is sending in default mode?
  16. cj

    Abnormal environment voltage

    You will have quite a few problems. Can you describe why you have to run at 22V? Is this the battery/cranking/alternator voltage? The ECU itself is generally set to shut down above 18 for protection reasons. I'm not sure how high you can push it before you break something however. Your injector dead times are likely not rated at 22+V. Most dead time tables top out about 16-18V Your coil dwell times are also not likely published at 22+V, again most manufacturers only provide numbers up to 16-18V. Is this a 24v vehicle? can you split the system so you only power the ECU & engine systems from a single 12 battery?
  17. result number 1 in google search for 350z pedal pinout looks good https://my.prostreetonline.com/2014/09/24/test-vq35-accelerator-pedal/
  18. This can also happen if the grounding to the engine isnt quite up to size. Remember that in most setups the ECU grounds to the engine block or intake manifold. If there is an undersized or corroded ground anywhere between this contact point and battery negative it can cause the voltage at the ECU to drop even if the supply side is good.
  19. Narrowband lambda sensors are borderline useless for tuning - they just show rich or lean, but not a usable number. Interestingly yours reads lean for that entire log which is possible given you dont see any boost, but its a bit unlikely. A wideband sensor would make any tuning (outside of a dyno with its own sensors) a lot easier. What fuel pressure was this tuned at? The dead times used are for 45psi, and you are running very small pulse widths so this will have a big impact on low throttle/idle performance. You also dont have any short pulse adders configured, which will also really help given the low pulse widths. try putting in the 1050x data from here http://help.injectordynamics.com/support/solutions/articles/4000074340-link-engine-management
  20. As a starting point set a speed threshold on your idle ignition timing (maybe around 10kph). Also drop the rpm threshold for this to somewhere around 1500. Whats happening right now is that as soon as you get off the gas pedal ignition idle turns on and immediately pulls all your ignition timing. There are probably a bunch more contributing factors I havent had time to check yet. Do you have a lambda sensor installed? its showing 0 the whole log. Also, can you please include injector effective pulse width as a logged parameter & fuel table 1 value? Or better yet set it to log all values if its a PC log.
  21. 4.9 - no. 4.2's did need this though.
  22. if you tune it in modelled first, then change the injectors, as long as you update the tune with the new injector parameters it should still run moderately well. It wont be perfect so probably not worth getting it perfect on the smaller injectors though.
  23. This sounds really similar to a known bug that I thought was fixed in the latest firmware. What firmware are you running?
  24. Heres one from a k20z4 as a close starting point. You will have to change engine size up to 2400, injector size & dead times to whatever you are using (this car used evo10 injectors), and trigger1 mode from K20 to K24. You may also need to change trigger 1 edge from rising to falling. If you dont have a fuel pressure sensor (factory ones dont), then you will need to change the MAP reference in injector config away from FP sensor as well. Also the input & outputs will likely be wrong for your car. depends how much work you've done already if you start from this or just compare it to yours and change things that dont match. k20z4-27.1-550-ve-567.pclr
  25. what if you set DI1 to "frequency". do you get anything? You say your wiring has the power & earth the other way around... is this a factory wiring harness? If you've built it, maybe those 2 wires are backwards? That page, the 97 supra service manual i've got, and the wiring diagram in the same manual all show pin 1 (far end from the notch) as 12v and center as earth.
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