Ted

Have you verified base timing?

It focuses the input closer to the expected knock frequency so you should get less background noise coming through. 
Making it easier to identify knock
 

why are you looking to swap? im in the opposite boat, looking to go from DBC to DBW! trade me your stuff! haha

FIC has the data if you look at their GM EFI Live datasheet here: http://fuelinjectorclinic.com/efilive1000
But, this data does not look real to me, I would not trust it.  If you graph it you will find it is just a straight line.  You are probably better to leave it set at zero or go to a supplier that gives you real data.
 

I switched to these injectors because they're stainless and to handle a bigger turbo with E85.
In case anyone else is looking to run them I got injector data (attached) from FIC. I combined this data with the custom flow data i got with the injectors and i've been very happy with how they've worked.
Link ECU 1650cc.xlsx

For ID1300x2 use the below settings.



 
 
 

you after the ID1300x or ID1300x2?  I used the figures from ID/T1Race for a set of ID1300x2 with an xtreme and they work perfectly

Yes you can do that.
I did it with my 3sge beams Altezza plug in when I went to ITBs.  Although now I have made the ITBs DBW.  LOL.

It appears the problem is your E-throttle PID is a little too aggressive, after quick throttle movements your TP overshoots the target and gets a bit of oscillation, this causes the TP/Target error accumulator to count up.  It only gets as high as 6 in this log and it needs to get all the way up to 100 before it will trigger limp mode so you are a long way off that in this example but in situations where you have lots of fast throttle movements or are on/off the throttle a lot it will count up much quicker.
You may need to get a tuner involved to fix this but there is no harm in having a play yourself if you are keen.  Just first save a copy of the current map so you can load it back in if you mess anything up or make it worse.  It is easiest to set up a time plot similar to mine below and also have the E-throttle settings on the same page.  Hit F8 so that the time plot is running live then try adjusting the P/I/D one at a time while moving the throttle to see which one helps or makes it worse.  The idea is you want TP main and sub to follow E-throttle 1 target as close as possible.  With PID tuning there is always a compromise between response speed and stability.  If settings are too mild the response will suffer, if they are too aggressive you will get instability/oscillation like you see in your log.  So it looks like you are close and will only need a small adjustment to tame it down a little.

 

subscribed.  I had this issue once on my 04 USDM STi. I did both of the ethrottle relearns and so far it has not came back.  

Can you do a pc log of a short drive, 5 minutes or so will be fine.  It sounds like your most likely reason will be there is a small error some where causing one of the error accumulators to count up.  These will only cause the system to shut down once they reach 100 so it will only be certain types of driving or actions that cause it.
A short log should give us some clues.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_P1LRANeO4A
  

To get any where with this, you will need to post the current calibration and log showing the fault.

We sell a customised version of the Dash2Pro:  http://dealers.linkecu.com/Race-Technology-Dash-2-Pro

Im not sure if you are asking if you can display images on the dash or if you are asking for pictures of the dash.  It is just a segment type LCD so you cant display images on the dash.  If you just want pictures of the dash then there is one on the link I provided above, also more info here:  http://www.race-technology.com/nz/racing/products/display-products/dash2-pro  and here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pQUqZwfP66A  Note that some features are optional like the GPS logging option is a paid license which doesnt come in the base package but you can add at any time in the future.  The version we sell already has the CAN receive licence enabled.
For pricing you will be best to contact a dealer in your region.

Yes it can be done with a bit of wire shuffling.  The 2 extra cam sensors need to be wired to DI 1 & 2, these inputs were originally used for the start signal and the power steer signal.  These can be moved to DI 7&8 on the expansion connector instead to free up DI1&2.  You dont really even need the start signal.
The AVCS solenoids need to be wired to Aux 1 & 2 which were originally used for fuel pump and wastegate valve.  Similarly these wires can be moved to Ign 7&8 on the same expansion connector to free those pins up.  Aux 3 may also be another option if air conditioning is not needed.

For what it's worth, I wrote up my experience of setting up knock control on my Impreza STI 2007.  It's all based on the Link help files... I believe what I have done is correct (comments welcome!)  Feel free to have a look at the attached word doc...
BTW, I found the sound levels of each cylinder to be quite 'noisy', so had to have a fairly large headroom in threshold to prevent false knock detection.
Knock Setup.docx

That would depend on whether it is a false knock detection due to noise threshold or actually knock on cylinder 4 . 
As mentioned above it could be a fuel issue.  Try swapping injectors between cylinders and see if the knock moves with the injector.
If it is knock due to ignition then I would retard #4 a degree at a time in the individual cylinder ignition trim table.
 
HTH,
  Richard.
 
 

Ideally avoid wiring the injectors in series, If high impedance then you can do up to 3 injectors per drive in parallel.
Low impedance would be a push at 2 per drive. 
Assuming 8 injectors then primaries on to drives 1 and 3 and then the secondary on drive 2 and 4. Two injectors per drive. 
Then run as group staged

The Evo 3 plugin only has hardware for 7 injector drives onboard and some of them are already used for other functions - for instance Inj 6 is used to drive one of the fans and inj 7 is used for the CE light.  If you wanted staged injection you would probably have to do it in group fire mode.

Just an idea... Perhaps you could try logging to ECU at 100 Hz, only logging the relevant parameters at this rate though.
Might help to understand whether the PC just can't display/log data fast enough (as Adam was suggesting)?
 

Hi, I only skimmed through this post, apologies if you've already fixed this...
 

In the screenshot below you can see the knock control system retarding the timing in two areas, first at about 6:07 and then again at 6:11.  
The retard at 6:07 is because Cyl#2 went above the knock threshold.  The retard at 6:11 however appears unexplained as all knock levels are displayed still below the threshold.  The reason for this is due to the way the knock level is displayed/logged, the ECU obviously works much faster in real time but the PC logged/displayed data is only captured at 40Hz and also has some filtering applied.  There would have been a small spike in the knock level above the thresehold in this area but the logging just has not captured it.
If you are still using the narrowband sensor then yes it would be most appropriate to use 13Hz.
 

Ok thanks, now I understand.  You have massive trigger errors in all logs.
The next step is to do a triggerscope so we can see what is wrong with the signal (just at idle will be fine).  Here is a short video how to do the trigger scope:  https://1drv.ms/v/s!AiYbYlZQuRHPmieMTkwQDCXEb2LY
Please "save as log" and attach the file here.

Yes, it is doable, I wont be much help on the wiring side but I know of a couple of rally cars running the same sort of strategy that I mentioned in this thread:  
 

Most likely a mistake during packaging missing putting one jumper in.
Make sure it hasn't dropped off in the bag and might still be in there. 
The jumpers are relatively common and often used in PCs so a very good chance one can be found locally.