DenisAlmos
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Posts posted by DenisAlmos
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As my car as a circuit breaker it makes more sense to set the stepper motor reset at ECU wakeup than hold power anyway
It’s not a problem for me to wait a second before startup
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I'm using a V6 engine in a V4 WRX
My problem is I can't control idle because the car wiring is a 3 wires for a solenoid I suppose and the throttle body is supposed to have a 4 wires stepper motor.
Can you confirm if V3-V4 G4X is able to control a stepper motor?
If not do you think another solenoid can fit the Subaru throttle body?
I’ve been using rotational idle but engine don’t warm up over 50°C so it’s not ideal for a track day car.
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@koracingSorry for the late replay but my Google Drive was full so I couldn’t upload the logs.
1 – The information you asked
You can found in this folder a log from July the 9th which is the log from the mapper and a log from August the 2nd which I’ve done static in my backyard.
The mapper did the dyno runs during hot summer near sea level so I guess BAP was over 100KPa. The second log is also near sea level and BAP was 98KPa and it already had a CL lambda correction about 4%.
I don’t have a log during testing in the mountains but I’ve manually adjusted the fuel map to match my Lambda target while CL lambda OFF. You can found this tune “after testing” in the folder and calculate the error by comparing the changed values. I remember subtracting 13 to 14% on the fuel map.
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/12QvmVxBooMJm385VUDnnn_vKtDrUil1a
2 – Replay to your observations
The fuel used is pump ethanol, so yes it can vary on ethanol %. Unfortunately, the car didn’t had ethanol sensor at the time of the mapping. Thank you for pointing the fuel density and temp coef are wrong. The car now has a sensor but is still using the same mapping. What would be the best thing to do in your opining?
Yes, he changed the injector dead times, I replaced the data from Injector Dynamics website. The mapper said Injector Dynamics are china’s renamed products …
I use a fuel pressure regulator and I’m not confident in sensor wiring so I prefer it to be logged only for now. What would be your recommendation on fuel pressure usage? Do you recommend ”FP Sensor“ mode in this case? What does it change if the fuel pressure regulator gives the right fuel pressure difference? [My decisions before mapping, he changed nothing]
I installed the IAT sensor in the manifold, is the charge temp still relevant? [My decisions before mapping, he changed nothing]
You are right, I installed the oil pressure sensor just before going to the mapper and he didn’t set any protection on this parameter. I’ve now set it up myself.
For the boost setup, I assume he did something because I can see boost dyno runs on the logs. Has the air temp was too high he probably deleted the boost setup and told me he can finish tune as soon as I put a front mount intercooler. I’m not going this route because of lag so I installed a much bigger scoop, I called the tuner every week for months but I’ve never had another appointment. He said yes every time but did nothing.
If I understand, in your opinion I should not trust the mapping at all and restart everything? If the fuel map could not be trusted, nothing could be trusted right?
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To give you some news, the mapper answered “yes” every time I asked something but with no surprise, he did nothing to help.
I tried the car and found out it was 14% rich.
These is 2 raisons I see for this difference; the mapping as been done on a hot summer day, and I want on mountains to test in without seeing the cops, so air temperatures and atmospheric pressure were much lower. I measured 85KPA for BAP.
What would be the best to do?
Could changing the main fuel from MAP to MGP solve this out?
Can you guys have a look? @Adamw @koracing @Vaughan@Confused
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Hi all,
I'm working on an old rallycar and wanting to use it of tracks.
Here is the setup: EJ205 with Wossner forged pistons, stock heads and VF34 turbo
I went to a mapper and had to pay him before seeing the car becouse he also was the transporter.
I discovered that the all boost table is at 10% so I'm unsure about his work. Can anyboy have a look and give me a feelback about this tune? What do you think this tune worth?
https://drive.google.com/file/d/12XZaGnFIjnQUx_5tUUcxqRASKQ_uCI3W/view?usp=sharing
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@DerekAE86 I've never tried but you can combine the following formulas : Power=Force x Speed and Force=Mass x Acceleration
It gives you Power=Mass x Acceleration x Speed but you need to use SI units
So it's more problably something like : Power (kW)=Mass(Kg) x Accleleration(g) x 9.81 x Speed(Km/h) x 1000/3600
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Yes AN temp have a 1kohm or 10kohm pull-ups resistors
So if I understand correctly, 1kohm is gonna give a 0.02V to 0.27V?
Probably enough for the job
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I've made an Excel file with Deadtimes and Short Pulse adder tables for ID1050XDS injectors from the datasheet avalable on Injector Dynamics website. It makes easier copy/paste if you want to add this datas to your tune.
You can have it here: https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1LNKgQv3tEpuumoaWQWqoRytuRwxU1WBL/edit?usp=sharing&ouid=107378830477024301864&rtpof=true&sd=true
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@Adamw isn't it possible to filter fuel level on the software?
I guess the road cars do it and are not using filter right after engine start to immediately adapt after refueling.
I want this to make easier my refuel on track side as I'll be alone with no team to calculate how much fuel to put and finish with a minimum of fuel.
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If any one wants to know, I tried to solder the power and communication wires of 3 USB cables to allow communication and charge on my Note8 and SpeeedStudio CAN analyzer but it didn't work.
I'm using the OEM Samsung OTG adapter delivered with the smartphone for now and have no solution on how to display and charge in the same time.
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@jqvp thanks for answer.
Wested spark on a G4X is interesting for me because I can use GD STI coil packs and an adapter to use the factory wiring harness. I'm not planning on rewiring the car for now so it's a cheap and easy solution.
For the people interested, I've done the modification and it works.
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I also bought the SeeedStudio CAN to USB module to use an old smartphone as a DASH.
About wiring, I was thinking to solder wires to supply 5V and split the wires for the USB bus. I would look like a T wiring with 3 different ends: power supply, smartphone and CAN module.
Is it an option or is USB communication necessary for charging the smartphone?
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If I understand right you are not able to change your throttle kicker on and off from the cabin.
Another French GC8 GrA owner sent me pics of this installation and he is using suspension cable command locker for mountain bike to activate or not the throttle kicker. I’m gonna try to set this system on my GrA and was just looking for more examples.
Here is the suspension cable command locker: https://www.decathlon.fr/p/poploc-suntour-noir/_/R-p-187051?mc=8399892
Also, I noted with throttle always open, idle is too high to be controlled by ignition. Cyclic idle is necessary.
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After searching for a defective wire or connector pin, I didn’t found anything wrong with a multimeter. I’ve tested sparely the car harness and the engine harness or both connected together.
The sensor resistance is 2050hOms. As my other GC8 sensor as the same resistance and runs great, I thought it’s not the problem.
I pulled everything again and it works! The signal was back and the car started.
I’m worried of the problem happened again just before a run at the track but what else can I do? -
@Adamw sorry for that, now corrected
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@k4nnon can you give more informations on how you get out of cyclic idle?
Is your cyclic idle temporary after an anti-lag session?
From the pics you have on your Drive, I understend you are mecanically openning throttle for anti-lag. Is your normal idle ignition based with small throttle openning?
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@koracing You can have a look at the trigger scope log here: https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1kA-OFcxPXWSQntr877uk_vnjS3XnJZ5_?usp=sharing
Trigger 2 looks to be working properly but Trigger 1 just gives a few oscillations but quickly gives no more signal, about one engine cycle.
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Well I had time to spent on the car this weekend and I realized it's not starting because of trigger 1 not having a stable signal. It might be a malfunction wire, I have reattached the engine harness during the installation of the Fuji adaptor. Unattaching the harness didn't solve the problem.
I assume trigger 1 is crank shaft position and trigger 2 is camshaft position?
Is it possible to run with camshaft sensor only? I know some Subaru tuners uses cam senor only on track cars for reliability.
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Thanks @Adamw for the information. I didn't knew about GD coils.
What is the technical problem being this? Is it about spark occurring not at the same time?
Can you however explain why this kit is supposed to work on the factory coil pack?
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Hi all,
On the process of installing an STI intercooler on my EJ205 powered GC8, I realized the dump valve doesn't fit with the OEM coil pack. I choose to get some GD STI plug coils and Fuji Racing : https://www.fujiracing.com/product/newage-coil-pack-conversion-wiring-loom/
After installation of the intercooler and the coils, the car doesn't start anymore. I just realized this for the help: "Note if using 2 coils per Ignition Drive and external igniters you will need to wire the Ignition Drive into two igniter channels with the corresponding igniter outputs going to one of the coils each (never wire one igniter output to two coils)."
I don't want to wire it on Direct Spark because the harness won’t last and will be changed on the next years. What should I do? Go back to the OEM coil pack and relocate it? -
Hi @jqvp,
You mentioned on the first message that you are running GD coils on plug and your tune in on direct spark.
Do you have one Ignition Drive per cylinder?
I just discovered it’s not possible to drive 2 coils this one Drive.
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That's what I was think to
I'll do this, thanks
Idle conversion stepper to solenoid Subaru WRX
in G4x
Posted
I understand your position, thanks for your advice.
As mentioned above, with rotational idle the engine doesn’t warmup, not good for a track day car that’s going to run a few laps, it needs to perform quickly.
Unfortunately, ignition idle was way out of range, the engine sits at too high with a throttle set for startups. Maybe I can find an intermediate position to make ignition idle to work.
As another solution, I saw a Group A Subaru with a manual cable command for anti-lag using the OEM speed regulator cable attachment on the throttle. Maybe I can use this solution for startup only, like a starter on carburetors but an automatic solution always is sexier.